TeStUdO

I picked this up for a great price from RobearRacing, and was bored so I decided to install it. Ok well I would like to start off by saying this actually isnt a full install because I have no engine/tranny in my car. This install only hows the shifter install and hookup to 1 shift linkage(part 13). It doesnt show the hookup to the bottom shift linkagae that actaully hooks to the tranny and shifts gears (part 12).

Here is what you should use as a guide:


Tools Needed:

Jack
Jack Stands
Phillips Head screwdriver
10 and 12mm sockets with extension
white lithium grease (vasoline if you dont have any)


Here is a pic of the interior. Start by removing the 2 screws at the front of the console (by the cup holder on either side) and then remove the tab in front of the e-brake to get to the 2 screws that hold both pieces of center console down.


Here is a pic of the center console removed, also notice the rubber boots have been removed from the shifter as well. They are in the upper right part of this pic.


Now is the time to go under the car and remove the 2 12mm bolts(parts number 26) from the under side of the linkage. An extension helps here. Also note I had already removed the exhaust from the hangars for this pic. The 12mm socket with extension is actually on one of the bolts in this pic.

Here is me holding the shift linkage, notice the bushing at the bottom which gets replaced by the Energy Suspension bushing(part 16). You have to remove the 2 10mm bolts on the underside of this shifter(parts 20,26 and 18) as well to get the old shifter out of the linkage(part 2 DUH)


Notice the difference in the bushings between the Energy Suspension and the stock rubber ones. The urathane ones were definitely MONEY. The hardest part of the whole install was fitting the bushing into the transmission side of the linkage(part 14). A vice really helps here. Also notice the metal inserts in the old stock rubber bushings in the left hand side of the pic(part 9). Its easier to install the bushings with the linkage(part 13) out of the car. Also remember to put the bushing in the right way since one side is concave and the other is flat.

Here is a pic of the metal fitting(part 9) installed in the new urathane bushings(part 16).

Here is a pic of the old shifter once it is out compared to the Skunk2 shifter. The Skunk2 shifter is alot beefier and alot heavier which probably leads to more positive gear engagement. I cant reall say since Its not fully installed on a drivable vehicle. Once the old shifter is out remember to remove the rubber boot first by pulling it to the top of the shifter(parts 10 and 6), followed by the metal piece to the bottom(part 8). NOTE: be careful not to tear the rubber boot under the metal piece. Also be careful of the slip ring inside the rubber boot which actually is key in letting you shift(part 7).

Here is a pic of the shifter installed in the linkage. Installation is the reverse of removal. notice the jackstands in the background, definitely use these. The hardest part of the install was putting the new bushing on the tranny side of the linkage(part 14). nothing a little Vasoline (hey i didnt have white lithium grease) and patience cant handle. the fact that since my car set for so long the brown recluse spiders had made it a home sucked as well.


here is the finished product with skunk2 shift ****. Overall im happy with the product, now i just need my sleeved block and turbo put in.


All thats left to do really is hook up the top linkage(part 13) to its bracket (part 15).
The Skunk2 shifter comes with new hardware(which you can see in the pic above to the left of the shifters in the comparison pic). This replaces parts 21 and 24, if there is any space left just buy a buch of washers to fill the gap. I hope this helps some people in some way. Thanks for all the contributions everyone has given me.



Modified by TeStUdO at 2:19 AM 8/1/2004

The One Upper

Nice writeup

909rex

looks good

North_Texas

Awesome write up. Acutally pretty helpful.

Kewl_Black_Civic

now that is explaining
very helpfull

2ltrEK

wow..nice write up

Froggin

Nice writeup! So, tell us. How does it drive?

Skank_aSS_Dara

good wirte up, i love how strong and beefy those skunk2 shifters are

JDM R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Froggin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup! So, tell us. How does it drive? </TD></TR></TABLE>

itsJDMyo

looks sweet! i have that exact same shiftknob and just waiting for my skunk2 single bend shifter that i ordered last week

TeStUdO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Froggin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup! So, tell us. How does it drive? </TD></TR></TABLE>


Ill let you know when i get the motor installed

Vtec-94

Is that an install that a novice (like myself) could try? I have lots of tools but know the basics is something that I could try or would you not recomend that.

Thanks for any input, and that was a great write up!

kommon_sense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtec-94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that an install that a novice (like myself) could try? I have lots of tools but know the basics is something that I could try or would you not recomend that.

Thanks for any input, and that was a great write up! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the shifter install is pretty easy. Just a few tips :

1 - Pay attention to how the shift linkage runs before you disconnect it. Otherwise you will waste time and mumble a few colorful words when putting it back together.
2 - Pay attention to how the rubber boot over the pivot ball on the shifter is oriented. It is possible to put this on upside down which will cause stiff/notchy shifting.
3 - have some grease on hand to that you can regrease/lube the shifter
4 - Put anti-seize on the bolts when you reassemble

Vtec-94

Thanks for the 411

sohctodohc

hey i have a question i put in my dc sports shifter in a while back but i ripped that bboot that goes around the ball. would that cause notchy shifting? at first my shifter was so smooth it was great. but now that it is broke in its like its almost notchy? wut would cause that? i also have the energy suspension thing on. and u can feel a whole lot of vibrations through it to. wut should i do? any help would b great

TeStUdO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohctodohc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey i have a question i put in my dc sports shifter in a while back but i ripped that bboot that goes around the ball. would that cause notchy shifting? at first my shifter was so smooth it was great. but now that it is broke in its like its almost notchy? wut would cause that? i also have the energy suspension thing on. and u can feel a whole lot of vibrations through it to. wut should i do? any help would b great</TD></TR></TABLE>


You should replace the boot and use more grease. white lithium is best.

loud_whispers

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeStUdO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You should replace the boot and use more grease. white lithium is best.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no high-temp wheel bearing grease is best.

white lithium is best for bolts that you don't want to get seized. Wheel bearing grease is for ball bearings.

loud_whispers

And for those of you who are thinking "vasoline" will work for a long time(like a couple of days)..your crazy.

Go spend a little money and get some wheel bearing grease


Shame on you, TeStUdO!

dxhatch93

i know this thread is old but, if i were to buy the skunk2 shifter used, and it didnt come with that bolt that replaces part 21 and 24, would it still be okay to re-use the original stock bolt?

slkleltlclh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dxhatch93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know this thread is old but, if i were to buy the skunk2 shifter used, and it didnt come with that bolt that replaces part 21 and 24, would it still be okay to re-use the original stock bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the factory bolt fits snug, i dont think it will hurt.


i just installed my skunk2 short shifter, and i cant seem to shift as quick as i would like to. especially from 1st to 2nd.
would it be because the bolts arent torqued to spec? because when it was first installed, it was really hard to get into gears, so i loosened the bolt from the skunk2 shifter to the linkage, and it was better, but not good enough.

slkleltlclh

bump...anyone know?

slkleltlclh

help?