confidence

WARNING its been maybe 3 years since i did this. I didn't take good enough notes about it and i am trying to do this from memory and the pictures i have left. This write up isn't very good and may not be very clear. It is still a work in progress. I will answer questions and try to clarify anything that isn't.
I'd like to thank Long Grain Wild for his help with this and deschlong for motivating me to get off my *** and do this.
__________________________________________________ ______________________

These are the parts you will need:
Dash harness/also called engine room harness PN 32200-S04-A52 (EX manual) 32100-S02-A42 (SI)
Instrument cluster harness PN 32117-S04-C02
Floor Harness PN 32107-S03-A44
Radiator support harness PN 32200-S04-A52
Cruise control on/off switch PN 36775-s01-a01zA/C/B (A is charcoal, C is grey, B is taupe)
Cruise control set/reset switch. You will need the plastic panel from a steering wheel that has the cutout for this as well. Or you can get another wheel…
Cable Reel PN 77900-S04-A92 Cruise Control Unit (cruise ecu) PN 36700-s01-a11/21 (a11 is the manual version a21 is auto. But I am running the auto in my car so it appears the difference is just in the numbers)
Cruise specific pedals. Any EX or SI will do. There are no part numbers for the complete assym. Just pull one form a yard.
Cruise control cable PN 17880-s01-a01/a23 (a01 for non SI. A23 = SI)
Cruise control actuator PN 36520-p2f-a01
Cruise control vacuum tank PN 36625-p2f-a01
The metal mount for the vacuum tank
Various amount of vacuum line
wiring pins. You can get them here:
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind...9sk5k47t8b7pf4
The female pins are CONN-11656
The male pins are either CONN-00115, CONN-100451, or CONN-100558. I don’t remember which. I’d recommend you buy some of each. They are handy to have around. Also get the pin removal tools and the crimper from this site as well.

Install/harvesting parts
You will need to pull the interior out. All of it! That includes the dash and steering wheel.
remove the steering wheel first. pull out all the bolts circled in red. but first, get this thing out of the way:



then move to the steering column: remove the plastic cover. It just slides off if you pull straight down.


undo the U joint.


loosen these 2 bolts, one on each side. Don't take them out yet. Its best to remove the next set of bolts then finish taking these off


remove these 2. Then you can lower the column to the ground. Once its on the ground, disconnect all the plugs and set the whole thing aside



Now that the wheel is disconnected you can pull the dash.
Disconnect everything from the dash. I mean everything; the SRS system, the fuse box, the radio and ac controls. ALL OF IT!
To remove the dash you need to pull out the bolts circled in red.
Drivers side bolts:


You don't need to remove the one circled in yellow. Just loosen it. Leaving it in allows the dash to rest on it until you have all the other bolts out and are ready to pull it up.


Near where the steering column used to be


at the cup holder. one bolt on each side


center of the dash


passenger side. don't forget to disconnect the main relay


You can now lift the dash out. Once the dash is out you need to strip the dash harness out of it. Its the wiring you see in the pic.
it kinda snakes around in there a bit and can be a pain to get out/back in.


You will have to strip the gauge cluster harness out of the dash. The reason is that the CX/DX don’t have the connector used for the cruise on/off switch in the dash. It’s also missing the indicator light switch for the cluster as well.
Here is a pic of the CX/DX and the EX/SI cluster harnesses. CX/DX on top, EX/SI on bottom.


The EX/SI has a green terminal block and the 4 pin connector. The indicator light plug is visible in the next pic CX/DX top, EX/SI bottom:


Once this harness is replaced you can put the dash back into the car.

With the dash removed you can now get to the Cabin Harness. This is also called the Engine Room Harness by the Honda Parts Manual. This job is a LOT easier if you also remove the AC blower and evaporator although it's not necessary. I didn't remove mine but i have small hands and can weasel them behind the ac parts. you may want to remove them. It really does help

Here is the harness we need to replace.


But before you pull it you need to disconnect the wiring under the hood. On the passenger side it runs to the fuse box and a plug on the shock tower. You will need to disconnect these and stuff the wiring though the firewall as best you can. On the drivers side its about the same. You have 2 plugs on shock tower. You also have the brake fluid level sensor to unplug. Then get this ready to stuff though the firewall using the port beside the clutch master cyl.



the driver's side wiring feeds though here. (thanks long grain wild for the pic)

and connects here



With that done we can move to getting the harness out of the inside of the car.
Its held in with 2 bolts.


the rest is held in by clips like this one


After you get the harness in you will need to change the pedals out. It’s easiest to do this now with the dash out than it is to do it later.

The reason for this is that the cruise equipped cars have an extra lever for the cruise actuator cable.
The CX/DX is on the left. The EX/SI pedal assembly is on the right. Notice the cruise actuation lever on the gas pedal.


Don't forget to add in the clutch switch to the pedals if you haven't already


While you are here you may as well put the cruise control brain in.



And add the cruise actuator cable though the firewall and connect it to the pedals


If you have a CX or DX without the rear wiper you can just go ahead and replace everything with your EX/Si harnesses and put the dash back in.
Then get the steering wheel column back in and take off the steering wheel.

once the wheel is off you will need to change the cable reel.
Here is the CX/DX reel.


If you notice it only has black wires for the horn and airbag. Here is the EX/SI reel.


This reel adds the necessary wiring for the steering wheel cruise set/rest switch.
You will need to unplug the reels horn and srs wires. Here is the clip that holds them in on the steering column.


To remove the srs (yellow plug) press that long white tab and pull the plug straight down. The horn/cruise connector is just beside it. It’s the grey one


To remove it you need to slide it off the clip


Disconnected


Once these are disconnected you can pull the reel out and place the EX/SI one in. A note, though. The Ex wiring is thicker than the wiring on the dx/cx reel. It’s routed under the plastic above the key interlock. Here is a comparison shot of the EX/Si and the DX/CX wiring with the correct routing. The CX/DX is being held up for comparison sake. The EX/SI has a yellow jacket around these wires


Now you can remove the reel itself. To replace this you need to unscrew the 3 screws holding it down circled in red.


Install is the reverse or removal. Just make sure you route the wires to their proper places and reconnect the plugs.


Now you need to move onto the radiator support harness.
The CX/DX lacks the 4 pin connector to go to the cruise actuator. You will have to remove the CX/DX harness and replace it with the EX/SI harness. This is actually very easy to do. It’s all plug and play if you have a CX/DX without a rear wiper. Just run the cables, mount the actuator, connect the vacuum lines, put the cruise control brain in its place behind the driver’s side kick panel. And you’re done.

DX Hatch specific info.
you can ignore all of this if you don't have a DX hatch or don't care about keeping the rear washer/wiper

Things get fun if you plan on keeping your DX rear wiper. The DX stalk switch has an additional plug for the rear wiper. You will need to transfer this to the new harness if you want to keep it functional. The wiring will have to go into this part of the EX/SI harness i'm holding here.


The easiest way to do this is to depin the pins in the DX harness at their terminals in the floor connector and on the back of the fuse box and pull them loose. They should all be green or green/black wires... You will then need to feed these though the EX/SI harness to their original pin locations. Its not easy but it can be done.

for the radiator harness
The DX radiator harness has an additional 2 pin plug for the rear washer motor. The EX/SI has a grey 6 pin where our 2 pin connector is. (Connector C202 on the radiator harness to C309 on the Cabin harness)



The EX/SI has 6 pin connector in place of the 2 pin. (connector C202/C309)


As you can see we have 2 wires going to the washer motor. The black one we can splice into a ground. The green one we need to add to the EX/SI harness along with our plug.


We need to move the green black wire from the DX harness over to the new one. You also need to move the red/black wire over. This is the turn signal wire. I move the DX red/black to C202 as pictured here.


I then added the Green/black wire to C201 as seen here (the wire pushed up in the grey grommet):


Make sure both sides of the connectors match up.

It’s been a while since I did this and I don’t remember if I had to cut and repin these wires or not.... I think I did for both. You can get the pins needed here:


Now to the dash/cabin/floor harness.
On the dash/Cabin harness .(I don’t remember which one this one is in) You need to bring this green wire over to the EX/SI harness


There are also 2 green/white wires that need to come over. I moved them to these locations in the cabin/dash harness.


Here in this pic I have one wire installed and the other slot is occupied by a yellow/black wire. If I think this is part of the security system wiring. Its optional and not needed. (unless you have the optional security system) Remove it and put the green/white wire in its place.

Now on the floor harness we have to take these 3 green wires from the DX harness and transfer them to the EX/SI harness. They are the 3 at the bottom. 2 mint colored ones and 1 dark green at connector C602


Here are the wires at the other side. Front side on connector C555.


You need to put them into the locations indicated by the multimeter probes. The white/green wire under the red probe can be removed as it’s not used.


Once these wires are moved over you can button everything up. The rear wiper and washer will now work. :D

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

Nice post. I've got a DX and have been collecting cruise parts for quite some time and they've been sitting in a box on the shelf. In a stroke of great timing, I pulled the box of cruise stuff off the shelf just yesterday to refresh my memory! I laid out the parts and started looking at the details and it looked like they used different wiring harnesses depending on the different options in the car. I was really hoping they used the same main harness in all the cars and it would be more plug-n-play, but your post confirms that it's not that easy. Not a surprise, but bummer. I was hoping I was mistaken and it would be easier than that.

So I believe I've got all the parts necessary to do this job, but the main harness I have has got some splices and damage from the previous owner. I was thinking that I may try to strip the cruise specific wiring out of that harness and install just the cruise wires into my DX instead of replacing the entire main harness.

Same thing for the engine compartment harness. It was pulled off a car that sustained front left damage and the wires are cut and messed up further front than the cruise actuator. In other words, the cruise specific parts are OK, but the rest of it is no good. I was planning to strip out the cruise specific wires and just add them in parallel with my existing harness.

I guess the difficulty of doing it that way will depend on how many internal splices they made inside the harnesses.

Anyway, thanks for your post. It is going to be a huge help in this job. I don't get here often and I just happen to be poking around last night and saw this thread.

confidence

the radiator harness is easy to add the cruise specific things to. You need that one plug for the actuator and you will need to swap out the DX 2 pin for the EX/SI 6pin and move those wires anyway. The dash harness/main harness isn't the same i'm afraid. Its easiest to pull the rear wiper specific stuff from the dx and add it to the EX/SI harness you have. Its only the 1 plug that is used by the stalk switch you need to transfer over. You will also have to add the wires that the rear wiper motor uses to the floor harness. That harness is easy as its only the 3 green wires.

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I started looking into it a little last night and it looks like the underhood part of the job is going to be the easiest part. There are only four wires that go to the cruise actuator and three of the four are already available on the same connector. And to make matters simpler, the fourth wire (the one that doesn't exist already on it's own connector) is ground.

Maybe I'm not explaining my thinking very well, but what I'm imagining is that I won't swap out the DX 2-pin connector for the Ex 6-pin, but instead, I'll just run another six pin connector in addition to the one that's already there. In other words, instead of having just the two stock connectors in the engine bay, I'll have three. Two that have not been changed at all, and a third that is solely used for the cruise actuator.

That will take care of the engine compartment, but the real difficulty will be in the dash and main harness. I haven't studied it to see how unique the wires are. I've looked just a little bit and I see that there are thirteen connections to the cruise module and one of those is only for the auto-trans (which I don't have). That leaves me with 12.

Three of them go to (and only to) the cruise actuator.
Two of them go to (and only to) the cable reel.
One of them is ground.

The remaining six are the potential trouble spots.

confidence

this is why i wish i had taken better notes. I figured i should post up at least this half assed write up before i forgot more.
I think some of those 6 are things like the switch wiring, indicator light and i can't remember what else...
How badly mangled is your donor harness? Its pretty easy to add the dx wiring to the ex/si harness. Its extremely hard to subtract the ex/si stuff to do it the other way round.
If you are going though this process please take lots of pics. I can try to walk you though it and maybe we'll come out the other side with a real writeup

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

I hear ya. I do projects and think to myself that nobody (including myself) would ever want to know any of the details so I don't take pics or notes. Then two years later, someone asks about the exact same thing you did and you kick yourself for not writing anything down. I'm sure between the two of us, we can make this work for both of us. The pics and notes you have above have already helped, so don't kick yourself too hard!

Yeah, those other six connections to the cruise module are things like power from the ignition switch, connections to the pedal switches and to the VSS. I've got all the harnesses, but I'm just not sure of the integrity. I know the engine bay harness is trashed beyond the cruise actuator, but no biggie there, I can manage that. But as for the dash harness and main harness, they look OK, but I'll be honest... Lack of notes is biting me in the *** a little too. I've had these parts sitting in a box in the garage for so long, that I've lost the details about what years and models they originally came from. I'm working on a 99 DX hatch, but at this point I don't even remember if the harnesses came from a 99 or an earlier year.

So, my thinking is that:

A) My car works fine right now. No electrical issues whatsoever.
B) I don't know if the harnesses I have are from the same year.
C) There are only six connections that aren't already easily available.
D) I don't want to pull the whole dash out if unless I really have to. I mean I've done it and it's not impossible, but it's just a pain.

And all of that makes it such that I would rather see if there's another way and here's my plan:

Use my donor EX steering column harness with no mods, but strip the cruise specific wiring out of the donor EX main and dash harnesses I have. Hoping that they didn't make too many internal splices inside the harness to make connections. The ones to the pedals should be unique, but things like power to the module and VSS are probably spliced. I'm hoping there may only be three or so wires that really need to be spliced into my original harness.

So... You got any reasons why I shouldn't start opening up my donor harnesses? I'd like to hear back from you before I start tearing the jacketing off. Until I do that, it won't be too late to bail on my plan and just do it like you did. What do you think?

confidence

there are paper tags taped down to each harness unless they have been removed. they have the part numbers for the harness printed on them. I used that to verify mine came form an SI.
only one of mine had a problem with integrity. It looks like the whoever had it first did a half assed turn signal/side marker wiring to the radiator harness. i replaced one of the wires and put liquid tape over the wires i didn't have connectors to replace. I have to take the fenders off and look at thos. Every time it rains one blinker blinks super fast and very dimly... :\

i thought of doing what you plan as well. There are a few wires that run from one end of the harness to the other. Some of the spices we have to deal with are located behind where the evaporator coil is in the cabin harness. Those are a pain to get to as it involves a lot of unrapping. I decided it would be easier to swap the whole thing than to try to pick those out and move them to the DX harness.
Nothing you are talking about is impossible. Its just a matter of time. If you have the time, then doing it that would would work but it will also be a lot of work as well....

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again. One of the things that your post has already helped with is I didn't know I needed a different pedal assy and I don't have the new one yet. I'm going to have to nab one from a junker. After I have the new pedals with the correct switches, I should be able to figure out how complicated it will be to do the graft technique as opposed to transplanting the entire harness.

And the harnesses I have do still have the stickers. I should punch them up and at least see if they are the correct year. I know they are EX/SI because I remember they came from a 2-door with cruise. I'm no expert on the topic, but I think that rules out the CX/DX and LX. I just don't know the year.

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

Haha! And I'm an expert at taking my fenders off. I had them off and on a bunch of times to fix water leaks into my footwells. The leaks are dry, and I can now take my fenders off and put them back on with my eyes closed! Five minutes tops!

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Finally, someone did this write up.

confidence

i was inspired by you deschlong But as you can see it's not quite ready...yet..

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

I have started adding the cruise stuff to my car. Today's work was to swap out the wiring harness bracket in the engine compartment with the cruise style that includes the vacuum canister. Simple.

Out with the old:


In with the new:


I just left the vacuum lines hanging for now because there's no place to connect them to yet.

kcoen

Hi, I have a 1996 DX Hatchback and it has cruise control and under the hood it looks like every other cruise control system but in the cabin there is no buttons on steering wheel or on dash just a little lever type thing with switches like the headlight one and is right behind it as well. Did the car come like this or did some one add it? It doesn't say anything on the window sticker about it having or not having cruise control. Thanks!

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

That is most likely an aftermarket kit that a P.O. added.

kyden

the hatchbacks never had cruise from the factory.

kcoen

Thanks for the info, deschlong and kyden. I didn't know if it was a dealer add on or aftermarket as it is a pretty clean install. It just didnt look like the cruise in my 93 hatch or the cruise in this thread. I had my wonders though as it is a dx and when cluch is tapped the cruise didn't cancel. Thanks again!

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

That's not cool. You could over rev your engine if you push the clutch in and the cruise unit doesn't know.

So does it cancel when you tap the brakes?

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

Got the cruise actuator installed. Again, simple, but there are two things to point out...

First is that there are (at least) two different versions of the bracket that bolts the actuator to the strut tower. One has a clamp for the throttle cable, and the other doesn't. I'm working on a 99 DX hatch and I originally had a throttle cable clamp bolted in the location assumed by one of the actuator bracket bolts and I used the bracket that included the cable clamp so I didn't lose that clamp location. You can see the cable clamp in the upper right of the pic:


The second thing to note is that the hatch fender well does not have the mounting tab for the third actuator bracket bolt. I guess since no hatch came with cruise, they didn't bother to weld that third point in place on the inside of the fender. I'm guessing that the two on the strut tower are enough and I'm not gonna lose any sleep over not using that third mount. You can see the third mounting location hanging in air here:


Also just for interest, here's the routing of the vent line that runs out the front of the actuator and down below the P/S reservoir. Pull the factory plug out of the hole and insert the vent line instead:

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

Picked up cruise pedals at the junkyard. Got home and then realized I bought pedals from an auto-trans car instead of a manual. Didn't even cross my mind at the yard...

I got lucky though because I was able to swap my 5-spd brake pedal over to the auto cruise set. This is what I started with. Cruise pedals from the auto on the left. Non-cruise pedals from my 5-spd on the right:


Just remove both brake pedals and reassemble the cruise pedals using my 5-spd brake pedal. Finished assy on the left. Leftover parts on the right:


Then I put the pedals back in which wasn't a lot of fun. I'm doing this with the dash installed and getting the smaller non-cruise pedals out wasn't too bad, but getting the more complicated cruise pedals back IN was more difficult. If I were doing it again, I would recommend pulling the pin and removing the gas pedal from the assy first, and then after the main assy is bolted in place, reattach the gas pedal.

I also ran the cable for the actuator through the firewall. Pull the plug out of the hole, use the circular foam gasket, stick the cable through the hole and quarter turn. Then attach the cable to the cruise linkage at the gas pedal.

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

And thanks again to all like deschlong and confidence who have blazed this trail before me!!!

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Well, thank-you for documenting your trip. Not many people take the time. +100 internet points!

confidence

Seriously! Thanks for the pics and the info about the bracket. I didn't know there were 2 types. I'll post a pic of mine later on. It doesn't require the lower mount nor does it have the cable holder.
Do you mind if i use your pictures and move them into the first post?

Here is a pic of my actuator. It looks like yours came off an automatic. It appears that autos with PS have an extra mount point. And it appears there are 3 types of brackets. The auto one without the cable mount. The auto with the cable mount and the standard ones.
please excuse the brown goo. My drivers side mount exploded

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

Feel free to put copies of the pics up at the top. You've got a good handle on the electricals, so between the two of us, we'll have a pretty good how-to, right?

Actually my actuator that had been sitting in my "box-o-cruise parts" for so many years didn't have that cable mount either. It was when I first put the actuator in place that I realized it replaced the original throttle cable mount. I didn't like the way the throttle cable flopped around without that mounting point, so when I went back to the yard to get my cruise pedals, I poked around in a whole bunch of engine compartments looking to see if Honda did something different. That was when I saw that different mounting bracket that included the throttle cable mount. I didn't notice three different styles, but there were clearly at least two.

I didn't buy the whole actuator. I took the actuator diaphragm off the mount and just bought the metal mount. I figured someone else might need the diaphragm part and I was just going to chuck it, so I left it for the next guy. Point is... The bracket with the cable clamp will mount to your existing actuator.

So here's some progress for today. Got the cruise controller module and bracket installed. First, bolt the bracket in place:


Then attach the cruise module to the bracket:


Also got the clutch switch installed. You can see the original starter interlock switch on top (with wires already connected), and the new cruise disable on the bottom (white connector no wires).


Interesting to note that the clutch switch was the same one as used on the earlier Civics as well. I grabbed one from a 95 and compared it to 99 and they were the same. So if you can't find a 99-00, earlier cars will do.

Long Grain Wild

iTrader: (1)

Also, I see on your actuator that you left the control wires hanging? My actuator mount has a little tab where the connector clips in. Doesn't yours have that?

Connector clips into place at about 10:00 in this pic:


And you didn't attach the actuator vent hose that routes below the P/S reservoir?

confidence

thanks for the new pics. I updated the first post with some more pics. I had to go to the junkyard and found a 99 ek. So i stripped the dash and took pics.
I have a simi-tucked wiring harness. the connectors are being fed though the hole that washer fluid bottle fits in since i ran my radiator harness under the fenders.