No Clutch Pressure/Power Bleeding?
08-22-2014, 03:49 AM
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No Clutch Pressure/Power Bleeding?
I am helping a buddy out with a 2006 Civic with no clutch pedal pressure. He replaced the slave cylinder and I helped him change the master.
We got everything back together at 9pm and night so we didnt spend a lot of time trying to bleed it but we were having no luck getting any real fluid out of bleeder. I did spend some some time squeezing the line from reservoir to clutch master cylinder to remove air but I cant reach all the way down. I am wondering if there is air trapped in there that is preventing it from bleeding.
Anyone use a power bleeder on these cars? I was thinking about getting a Motive power bleeder to bleed brakes in another car but there seems to be a lot of talk they dont make a good cap for the Honda. I was also looking at pnemumatic vacuum bleeders that hook up to air compressor but they dont seem to recommend them unless you had a good size compressor.
Couple of questions
1)Are there any likely points of failure besides these two cylinders and is pressure testing practical way to find any leaks? I dont see any leaks when removing either cylinder. If I used a Motive type pressure bleeder, is the 10-15 PSI that it applies at the reservoir the same pressure that should exist between the cylinders. meaning can I really pressure test anything by applying pressure at the reservoir?
2)Can anyone recommend a sub $100 power bleeder that is decent(if there is such a thing). If is unlikely that there are other sources of leaks it seems a vacuum bleeder would be just as good? If anyone has used a vac bleeder can you run it off a pancake compressor?
We got everything back together at 9pm and night so we didnt spend a lot of time trying to bleed it but we were having no luck getting any real fluid out of bleeder. I did spend some some time squeezing the line from reservoir to clutch master cylinder to remove air but I cant reach all the way down. I am wondering if there is air trapped in there that is preventing it from bleeding.
Anyone use a power bleeder on these cars? I was thinking about getting a Motive power bleeder to bleed brakes in another car but there seems to be a lot of talk they dont make a good cap for the Honda. I was also looking at pnemumatic vacuum bleeders that hook up to air compressor but they dont seem to recommend them unless you had a good size compressor.
Couple of questions
1)Are there any likely points of failure besides these two cylinders and is pressure testing practical way to find any leaks? I dont see any leaks when removing either cylinder. If I used a Motive type pressure bleeder, is the 10-15 PSI that it applies at the reservoir the same pressure that should exist between the cylinders. meaning can I really pressure test anything by applying pressure at the reservoir?
2)Can anyone recommend a sub $100 power bleeder that is decent(if there is such a thing). If is unlikely that there are other sources of leaks it seems a vacuum bleeder would be just as good? If anyone has used a vac bleeder can you run it off a pancake compressor?
08-22-2014, 07:30 AM
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Re: No Clutch Pressure/Power Bleeding?
You guys should have primed the master cylinder (to get fluid all up into its orificez, y0).
It's going to be difficult and time consuming for it to get the fluid moving initially via traditional bleeding method. Although gravity may have helped the fluid along by now.
You don't need a power bleeder. You can get the party started with a hand operated vacuum bleeder...which is usually like $30 at an auto parts store. It should work fairly quickly that way.
It's going to be difficult and time consuming for it to get the fluid moving initially via traditional bleeding method. Although gravity may have helped the fluid along by now.
You don't need a power bleeder. You can get the party started with a hand operated vacuum bleeder...which is usually like $30 at an auto parts store. It should work fairly quickly that way.
08-22-2014, 09:13 AM
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Re: No Clutch Pressure/Power Bleeding?
You are 100% correct on the fact that I should have primed the cylinder before install. I was worrying about fluid pouring out of it as I turned the thing every which way to get it back where it is supposed to go. in the 2006 it is way back on the firewall with the brake cylinder in the way.
Going to pick up a vacuum bleeder today. The Movtive pressure bleeder is really cool but the caps for different brands of cars are almost $40 each. By the time I priced it out fully it was going to be $150 to support all my cars and they didnt even have a honda specific cap.
Gravity could have helped too by now.. We were squeezing the rubber tube from clyinder to reservoir and getting a good amount of bubbles for a while. But you can only get able 1/2 way down that tube with all the stuff in the way.
Going to pick up a vacuum bleeder today. The Movtive pressure bleeder is really cool but the caps for different brands of cars are almost $40 each. By the time I priced it out fully it was going to be $150 to support all my cars and they didnt even have a honda specific cap.
Gravity could have helped too by now.. We were squeezing the rubber tube from clyinder to reservoir and getting a good amount of bubbles for a while. But you can only get able 1/2 way down that tube with all the stuff in the way.
You guys should have primed the master cylinder (to get fluid all up into its orificez, y0).
It's going to be difficult and time consuming for it to get the fluid moving initially via traditional bleeding method. Although gravity may have helped the fluid along by now.
You don't need a power bleeder. You can get the party started with a hand operated vacuum bleeder...which is usually like $30 at an auto parts store. It should work fairly quickly that way.
It's going to be difficult and time consuming for it to get the fluid moving initially via traditional bleeding method. Although gravity may have helped the fluid along by now.
You don't need a power bleeder. You can get the party started with a hand operated vacuum bleeder...which is usually like $30 at an auto parts store. It should work fairly quickly that way.
08-22-2014, 10:24 AM
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Re: No Clutch Pressure/Power Bleeding?
That MC is in the dumbest spot. I've done a couple. I kinda have it down to a science now. First one (remove/install) took le 1hr-ish. 2nd one took me 30 mins tops. Including removing the cowling and battery tray.
I connect and tighten the line and tube onto the MC prior to starting the awful process of installing. Using a clothes hanger inserted from the interior and hooked onto the pushrod clevis helps.
You can use a line cap or some other method to cap off the open end that attaches to the slave cyl feed. That way, there's no drips. The fluid doesn't usually come out of the rubber MC tube as long as you keep it pointed up.
Or...skip all that priming garbage and use a vac pump lol.
I connect and tighten the line and tube onto the MC prior to starting the awful process of installing. Using a clothes hanger inserted from the interior and hooked onto the pushrod clevis helps.
You can use a line cap or some other method to cap off the open end that attaches to the slave cyl feed. That way, there's no drips. The fluid doesn't usually come out of the rubber MC tube as long as you keep it pointed up.
Or...skip all that priming garbage and use a vac pump lol.
08-23-2014, 02:12 AM
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Re: No Clutch Pressure/Power Bleeding?
SOB - I didnt even think of removing the cowling... I ended up removing the air filter box and coming in that way...
Other key stupid moment.... Make sure you take the washer out of the inside of the old one....
Other key stupid moment.... Make sure you take the washer out of the inside of the old one....
That MC is in the dumbest spot. I've done a couple. I kinda have it down to a science now. First one (remove/install) took le 1hr-ish. 2nd one took me 30 mins tops. Including removing the cowling and battery tray.
I connect and tighten the line and tube onto the MC prior to starting the awful process of installing. Using a clothes hanger inserted from the interior and hooked onto the pushrod clevis helps.
You can use a line cap or some other method to cap off the open end that attaches to the slave cyl feed. That way, there's no drips. The fluid doesn't usually come out of the rubber MC tube as long as you keep it pointed up.
Or...skip all that priming garbage and use a vac pump lol.
I connect and tighten the line and tube onto the MC prior to starting the awful process of installing. Using a clothes hanger inserted from the interior and hooked onto the pushrod clevis helps.
You can use a line cap or some other method to cap off the open end that attaches to the slave cyl feed. That way, there's no drips. The fluid doesn't usually come out of the rubber MC tube as long as you keep it pointed up.
Or...skip all that priming garbage and use a vac pump lol.
08-23-2014, 09:39 AM
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Re: No Clutch Pressure/Power Bleeding?
LOL...can't imagine doing it with the cowling in. The plastic unsnaps. The metal brace comes out with like 5 or 6 bolts.
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