poolchamp

I have a 2006 MT EX that I needed to drop the transmission to replace a carrier bearing in the differential. Got that done, got the transmission back on the engine. Then I realized I couldn't get the car in reverse. To make sure I did things right, I dropped the transmission back to the ground, tested the gear selection and made sure it when into reverse, and took a good look at the clutch, clutch fork and throwout bearing. All looks good, so I put it back up. I have come to the conclusion that the I am not getting the clutch disengaged (confirmed by trying to turn wheels).

So, I bled the bloody hell out of the clutch line, for probably 45 minutes. I put a clear tube on the bleeder, and then use the open bleeder, pedal down, close bleeder, pedal up method with a friend. After 45 minutes, I am still pumping out an inch or more of air with every single pedal down. I am getting some pressure in the line as the push rod is pushing the fork to the point where it contacts the clutch, but not enough pressure to disengage the clutch. The first time I put the transmission back in, the slave cylinder did get bumped by the transmission. I am not sure how hard, but hard enough to pull the boot and push rod off, and it was leaking brake fluid.

My best guess at this point is that the slave cylinder got bent just slightly off and the hydraulic pressure is helping the piston seal on the way down, thus preventing any leakage, but it is still able to suck air in past that seal on the way up. I leak tested the system by closing the valve and holding the pedal down, but I see no leaks coming out anywhere at this point.

Thoughts? Should I use a pressure bleeder system that fits over the reservoir? Or should I just replace the slave cylinder?

Any help would be IMMENSELY appreciated!

rd2smoker

Well, when I installed my stainless clutch line it was a pain in the REAR to keep air out doing the pump-hold-bleed method. I would definitely try a bleed kit.

poolchamp

Ok, thanks, I think I'll try that Monday.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Get a bottle of water. Drink that.
Buy a 1/8" (3mm) ID vaccum line. Windshield washer line works well.

When the bottle is empty/once you are hydrated:
-fill the bottle about 1/4 full with brake fluid.
-open the clutch bleeder.
-use 1/8" ID hose...attach one end to the bleeder. IMMERSE other end into the fluid in the bottle.

Pump away at the clutch pedal. Keep adding fluid to the clutch master cylinder. Do this until you are satisfied there is no more air in the system. Usually takes about 1-2 mins.

Once you are sure there is no more air...make sure the master cylinder/pedal adjustment has the correct amount of freeplay.

The 2 man pump-and-hold method is less effective and takes a LOT longer.

rd2smoker

^ this is a cool idea. OP make good and sure you don't go crazy pumping the pedal and let the fluid level get to low because it will drink it, or you get to do it all over again!

poolchamp

Thanks for all the posts. What I ended up doing was basically the standard pump method that described in the original thread. Only difference, I brought the pedal up real slow to ensure it wasn't sucking air past the slave cylinder seal. It worked in about 5 minutes, I was pumping air free and the clutch is disengaging.

Now I have another problem. The car has been sitting for about 8-9 months. I can't find a drain plug on the gas tank and there is still a little under half a tank. I gritted my teeth and cranked it, but no love. It just cranks and cranks, doesn't even sound like it wants to start. Ideas? I haven't actually searched the web yet, so don't yell at me if the answer is already out there, please. I'll start a new thread if I don't find anything.

rd2smoker

Start with the basics. Pull the spark plugs and check them out while making sure the coils are on right. Listen as you roll the key over for a small huming sound (the fuel pump Pressurizing the system) get a gas can with some Seafoam fuel additive to freshen up the gas 8 months is old, but it should still burn. A buddy had a car that would not start to save his life. So I changed the spark plugs, the oil, the air filter and ran some fuel Seafoam in the tank and it cranked right up.

Unless you yanked a wire/plug loose. It ran fine before, just go from front to back.

poolchamp

I did make sure the fuel pump is priming. I am going to get 5 gallons of premium and some additive tomorrow. Like you said, if started before, it ran great before, it should run just fine now. I did a once over on the engine and made sure everything was still hooked up. I'll check the coils, make sure they are snug and the plugs. I am suspecting old gas is the issue, but it doesn't seem you can't drain it without dropping the tank.

rd2smoker

Yeah I've never seen a drain on mine.

If need be the auto parts stores normally have a hand powered syphon pump with about 4ft of hose for draining gas tanks. I looks like a blood pressure pump you see at the doc office. its like $10 and a handy tool to have.

poolchamp

I don't think you can siphon gas out of the tank. I am pretty sure it has a baffle that prevents the hose from getting into the gas. That is the case with most modern cars. I tried sticking a tube down there, both a small tube that I would use for a bleeder valve and a larger one from my transfer pump I use to fill the transmission and neither one managed to get any gas out.

If you know of some trick or secret that I don't, I would LOVE to know it. I know my CRX has a drain plug on it, I wish they just kept that design feature throughout. I think it was present on everything up to the 7th gen civic.

poolchamp

Ok, Seafoam and 5 gallons of premo and it fired up. Thanks for the help guys! It seems to be driving pretty good, though, I've only taken it around the block.

rd2smoker

Awesome!....That's such an epic feeling to get your car going again

Happy to help.

poolchamp

I did experience something odd the first time I let out the clutch. The engine noticeably struggled at first (not in gear, still in the air, btw). Once it was turning, it was making some uncomfortable sounds. The second time I engaged the clutch, however, those issues seemed to dissipate. It seems to drive fine, though. It sounds like there is something rubbing on the hub, but it's tough to narrow down now that it's on the ground.

Is the initially stiffness normal? Or am I concerned over nothing?

rd2smoker

The rough idle makes total sense to me given how long it sat and the old/bad/dirty gas working out of the lines, E85 in the gas is always a problem when sitting a long time and 90% of pumps mix it in now. but the clutch shouldn't have much to do with the idling when out of gear...

Remember, you had a wore out clutch, now you have a new one. Its gonna feel different.

Once a small pebble SOMEHOW got between the brake rotor and the rotor shield and had such an odd ball sound it took me a week to figure out it was there and not somewhere else. Just a thought. Its been sitting for a while and there are bugs that need to work out.

poolchamp

Haha, it's crazy the silly things that cause us headaches. I hope my rubbing is that simple, I think it's possible.

As for the clutch, I didn't change it. I just had it done 30K miles ago, and it's completely fine. I replaced a carrier bearing in the differential. I didn't disassemble the main or counter shaft, just pulled the bad bearing and popped on a new one. Could the gears/shafts have just needed a minute to get "realigned"? Like I said, there is no difference now clutch in or out, when it is in gear. The engine doesn't even notice it. It was just that first time.

rd2smoker

Yeah I'm no trany guy but that would be my guess. If its fine now, then its fine.