Tail Lights won't turn off
#1
Tail Lights won't turn off
Hi. Last night, when i got home and parked, my tail lights don't go off.. The brake lights were off. To keep my battery from draining, i removed the electrical thing attached to it.. and the Tail lights went off, and so my power lock. The next day.. when i attached it again, there's a spark.. as if it's grounded, and my Tail lights were on again. I dont know what to do. Please help. Thanks!
#3
Re: Tail Lights don't come off
Check the brake light switch that hits your brake pedal under the steering column. If the brake pedal is resting on it, it'll keep the lights lit. It may just need to be adjusted.
#5
Re: Tail Lights don't come off
Hi. Last night, when i got home and parked, my tail lights don't go off.. The brake lights were off. To keep my battery from draining, i removed the electrical thing attached to it.. and the Tail lights went off, and so my power lock. The next day.. when i attached it again, there's a spark.. as if it's grounded, and my Tail lights were on again. I dont know what to do. Please help. Thanks!
:chickendinner:
#6
Re: Tail Lights won't turn off
Under the brake pedal on the floor I found pieces of the rubber button that pads the brake pedal's metal plate with the hole in it to push it through. After many years of faithful service, it had simply come apart, leaving nothing to push the switch in and disco'd, and keep the lights off. That switch head button now goes thru the open hole when at rest and is not being pushed in on properly by the motion of the brake pedal being returned to at-rest position by the strong spring that pulls it back towards the driver, opening the contacts that drive the brake lights and keeping them off when the brake pedal is not being pushed on.
Looks like the entire rubber piece consists of an inchxinch flat piece about 1/4" thick, with a pointed rubber piece to keep it in place that goes into that hole in the brake pad. I am sure a brand new one would be the best deal and would last just as long as the original did, but finding one might be a challenge.
I think the bolt solution is a good one, am going to try it as soon as I get a little extra time. If if the switch is not perfectly set as to push-in positioning, loosening up the nut that sets it and unplugging the electrical plug temporarily will allow the switch to be rotated in or out - screwed forward or back - until it's in the correct spacing position for being pushed on properly by the brake pedal. Pushing in on that switch with the return spring keeps the lights off. Coming out on that switch - like when the brake pedal is pushed in for braking - makes the contacts and turns on the lights.
I may just run a search on finding the rubber pad with the pointed end on it, tho.
In the meantime I have stuffed a little metal plate in there to cover the hole in the brake pedal plate overnight to make sure the pedal keeps the switch in the non-connecting position and keeps the lights off. Didn't do that overnight last night and my batt was completely dead this morning. Fortunately it came back after being jumped and is working fine again now. I think the battery could survive that kind of treatment once, but I would not want it to happen more than that or it could damage the battery permanently.
Mr Bob
Looks like the entire rubber piece consists of an inchxinch flat piece about 1/4" thick, with a pointed rubber piece to keep it in place that goes into that hole in the brake pad. I am sure a brand new one would be the best deal and would last just as long as the original did, but finding one might be a challenge.
I think the bolt solution is a good one, am going to try it as soon as I get a little extra time. If if the switch is not perfectly set as to push-in positioning, loosening up the nut that sets it and unplugging the electrical plug temporarily will allow the switch to be rotated in or out - screwed forward or back - until it's in the correct spacing position for being pushed on properly by the brake pedal. Pushing in on that switch with the return spring keeps the lights off. Coming out on that switch - like when the brake pedal is pushed in for braking - makes the contacts and turns on the lights.
I may just run a search on finding the rubber pad with the pointed end on it, tho.
In the meantime I have stuffed a little metal plate in there to cover the hole in the brake pedal plate overnight to make sure the pedal keeps the switch in the non-connecting position and keeps the lights off. Didn't do that overnight last night and my batt was completely dead this morning. Fortunately it came back after being jumped and is working fine again now. I think the battery could survive that kind of treatment once, but I would not want it to happen more than that or it could damage the battery permanently.
Mr Bob
Last edited by mrbob84; 10-19-2012 at 06:26 PM.
#7
Re: Tail Lights won't turn off
I did a search today. The part needed is 46505-SA5-000, and evidently costs $2.27. I found the nearest Acura dealership to me was in Oakland 11 miles away tho, and didn't want to make a special trip or wait till I was in the area already.
So I went with the nut/bolt solution today and it was done in 5 minutes once I had located the right nut/bolt, whose head had to be around half an inch wide, minimum. Tightened it with pliers, went around back to make sure the brake lights were off, and Bingo! Off I went.
Great forum. Thanks!
Mr Bob
So I went with the nut/bolt solution today and it was done in 5 minutes once I had located the right nut/bolt, whose head had to be around half an inch wide, minimum. Tightened it with pliers, went around back to make sure the brake lights were off, and Bingo! Off I went.
Great forum. Thanks!
Mr Bob
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