DIY: Oil change on the D17A
09-21-2006, 02:38 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
DIY: Oil change on the D17A
<FONT SIZE="3">DIY: Oil change</FONT>
Here is a little piece of easy maintenance you can do on your own to save some money.
Go to your local auto parts store and buy 4 quarts of your choice synthetic oil, and a Mobil 1 M1-110 Filter or whatever filter you want, other tham Fram, and pay attention. I use all Mobil 1 stuff in my car, just my preference.
<U>Other tools needed: 17mm socet or wrench, MAYBE a oil filter wrench, and a drain pan.</U>
1. Secure the car up on some jackstands or ramps, with the rear tires chocked or otherwise secured.
2. Crawl under the car at the engine end (you'd be suprised how many times this HAS NOT been done).Find the writing on the bottom of the oil pan that says "Engine oil". There will be a plug right there next to the writing. Use a 3/8 drive 17mm socket and ratchet to remove that plug while your drain pan sits underneath ready to catch the outcoming oil.
3. Loosen the oil cap slightly to remove the vacuum from the system, and let it "drain 'til it drips" Then replace the oil plug with a fresh metal gasket if needed.
4. Here's where you have to get on your back again. If you have a lift, lucky you.
Crawl underneath the car, and look up torward the engine bay. The oil filter on the d17a is located above the driver side driveshaft axle.if you find the harmonic collar on the axle, look right above it, and thats the oil filter.
5. Twist it counterclockwise to loosen it, with the drain pan in a location to catch the excess oil coming out of the engine and its filter.
6. I found personally that the easiest way to get at the filter, without making oil have to run down your arm, is to come in under the car from behind the drivers side wheel and go up OVER the halfshaft and remove it that way.
7. When you have done that, take some of the FRESH engine oil you bought, and put some on the rubber gasket on the oil filter for ease ofinstallation and removal later one. Replace the new filter, turning it clockwise onto the mount stud.
8. Before you come up top to put new oil in, Check all connections and everything to prevent leaks. Tighten the Drain plug to 33 lb/ft for US LX and LX SE and DX, and VP. Canadian model DX, REVERB and LX. On the US EX and EX SE, and HX and Canadian Si: 29 lb/ft.
9. Refill the engine with the following amounts of oil: US LX and LX SE and DX, and VP and Canadian DX, REVERB and LX the specs with filter: 3.4 US quarts.
On On the US EX and EX SE, and HX and Canadian Si: It requires 3.7 US Qt.
Start of by just adding a little more than 3 quarts.
10. After doing that, start the car and let IDLE for a few seconds to fill the oil filter, then shut it off. After doing that, pull the dipstick and add oil as needed.
You're done.
Here is a little piece of easy maintenance you can do on your own to save some money.
Go to your local auto parts store and buy 4 quarts of your choice synthetic oil, and a Mobil 1 M1-110 Filter or whatever filter you want, other tham Fram, and pay attention. I use all Mobil 1 stuff in my car, just my preference.
<U>Other tools needed: 17mm socet or wrench, MAYBE a oil filter wrench, and a drain pan.</U>
1. Secure the car up on some jackstands or ramps, with the rear tires chocked or otherwise secured.
2. Crawl under the car at the engine end (you'd be suprised how many times this HAS NOT been done).Find the writing on the bottom of the oil pan that says "Engine oil". There will be a plug right there next to the writing. Use a 3/8 drive 17mm socket and ratchet to remove that plug while your drain pan sits underneath ready to catch the outcoming oil.
3. Loosen the oil cap slightly to remove the vacuum from the system, and let it "drain 'til it drips" Then replace the oil plug with a fresh metal gasket if needed.
4. Here's where you have to get on your back again. If you have a lift, lucky you.
Crawl underneath the car, and look up torward the engine bay. The oil filter on the d17a is located above the driver side driveshaft axle.if you find the harmonic collar on the axle, look right above it, and thats the oil filter.
5. Twist it counterclockwise to loosen it, with the drain pan in a location to catch the excess oil coming out of the engine and its filter.
6. I found personally that the easiest way to get at the filter, without making oil have to run down your arm, is to come in under the car from behind the drivers side wheel and go up OVER the halfshaft and remove it that way.
7. When you have done that, take some of the FRESH engine oil you bought, and put some on the rubber gasket on the oil filter for ease ofinstallation and removal later one. Replace the new filter, turning it clockwise onto the mount stud.
8. Before you come up top to put new oil in, Check all connections and everything to prevent leaks. Tighten the Drain plug to 33 lb/ft for US LX and LX SE and DX, and VP. Canadian model DX, REVERB and LX. On the US EX and EX SE, and HX and Canadian Si: 29 lb/ft.
9. Refill the engine with the following amounts of oil: US LX and LX SE and DX, and VP and Canadian DX, REVERB and LX the specs with filter: 3.4 US quarts.
On On the US EX and EX SE, and HX and Canadian Si: It requires 3.7 US Qt.
Start of by just adding a little more than 3 quarts.
10. After doing that, start the car and let IDLE for a few seconds to fill the oil filter, then shut it off. After doing that, pull the dipstick and add oil as needed.
You're done.
09-16-2007, 12:23 PM
#3
Re: DIY: Oil change on the D17A (MartyPike)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MartyPike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not Fram?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Due to it's tighter, smaller cardboard-based core, it clogs quickly and causes dirty oil to get recirculated back into the engine's oil system. Ideally, a metal-mesh based filter would be the best, in terms of longevity and overall performance. GL Powerlong makes a filter like that, but is difficult to source.
In all truth, the Honda OEM filters that say "Made In Canada" are 99% Fram filters re-badged. Getting a true JDM "Hamps" oil filter, would be ideal, albeit expensive. The Fram X2 series (and only the X2 series) would be an ok filter to run. Mobil 1, K&N HP-series, and AMSOIL SDF filters are quite top notch. Avoid using non-X2 Fram, Bosch, STP, and SuperTech filters like the plague. They can actually cause serious damage to your engine.
Due to it's tighter, smaller cardboard-based core, it clogs quickly and causes dirty oil to get recirculated back into the engine's oil system. Ideally, a metal-mesh based filter would be the best, in terms of longevity and overall performance. GL Powerlong makes a filter like that, but is difficult to source.
In all truth, the Honda OEM filters that say "Made In Canada" are 99% Fram filters re-badged. Getting a true JDM "Hamps" oil filter, would be ideal, albeit expensive. The Fram X2 series (and only the X2 series) would be an ok filter to run. Mobil 1, K&N HP-series, and AMSOIL SDF filters are quite top notch. Avoid using non-X2 Fram, Bosch, STP, and SuperTech filters like the plague. They can actually cause serious damage to your engine.
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