Tad

Can someone plz post or point me to a pic of a car running fenders such as this? I've never seen an EG hatch running fender flares that did not have rivets in them.

My plan for my next car is to turn it into a beast running the widest tires you can fit on an eg. So it would have to have flares. But I hate the hardcore look of rivets. I feel the eg is best with a minimalistic approach.

shaved everything, no rivets, etc.

I suppose i'm just looking for inspiration.
thanks.

here's some pics to make starting this post worthwhile.

JDMswagSerf

You're going to need some really strong double sided tape.
Even then, you run the chance of them flying off while driving.

Those are some big rivets in the picture.
You can always use bolts with a small head that usually fit in premade bolt pockets of the flare.
Color match the bolts to make them less noticeable.

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

Then don't put the widest tires on the car and leave the fender flares with Ric!

ghg78

iTrader: (2)

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

Tad

well I could do that but then i'd have an eg like just about everyone else.
not to mention I really want to experience a max performance eg around corners and on track.
The only way to do that is with maximum rubber possible.

Tad

Yeah good point,
I think using epoxy would be a feasible option.

nyckid

use panel adhesive to bond them then use the same holes to rivet them to reinforce them. after that you can use fusor or youcan plastic weld the holes flush with some sanding/minor bodywork.

JDMswagSerf

Are you going to cut your fenders too?

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

So, about that wide?!



225s on 7s with stock fenders.

I'm guessing your track experience is zero or you're just trolling a tad bit. Either way, you don't need "maximum rubber" to "experience a max performance eg"....

Tad

Nope, I don't have zero track experience.
225's is not very wide.
i'm thinking more like 275's at least.

Tad

you're right. that might be a good way to go.

yes, the portion under the flare will be cut.
so it would be a "no going back" situation for the car.

which is fine. there are plenty of eg civics out there.

JDMswagSerf

I still vote for getting a small dome head shape bolt and using a nut on the inside of the wheel well.
If the fender flares will have pockets for the bolts. The bolts will be nearly unnoticeable in the pockets, especially is color matched.
Will be easier to remove if needed than riveting and filling and shaping smooth.

If you still want a more flush look then as suggested, you can add plastic weld to the flare bolt pockets and shape it smooth.

Tad

yep, I think the plastic weld is a great idea.
however I did find some with no rivets on ebay.
both options require having a body shop do the install so It's no big deal.
definitely doable however.

JDMswagSerf

Yes, i too recommend a body shop doing this work.
They will be able to achieve the look you want.

Tad

Thanks for all the help. i'm bumping this in case anyone has more info.
so far i've figured
1- definitely have a bodyshop do the work.
2- ebay cheapo flares DO have non riveted options.

so the solution is probably a cheap flare with a quality bodyshop to apply it properly.

ALSO: my plans have evolved.
awd b20b jrsc
still flared with widest possible 16 tire
effective downforce, ie: front splitter and some sort of rear wing option (i'm looking into duckbills that actually do "something")

thoughts?

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

lol wtf, how has nobody recommended J's or Chargespeed fenders yet.

Rooks.

OP, they make wide front fenders for the EG with no rivets, they're relatively common.

hifl

iTrader: (1)

If he plans on running 275 still going to need flares on chargespeed fenders. This is on a 255.

cadwiese

what are the rear fender flares on the black hatch?

Caoboy

OP needs to have some flares welded on.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

I would think molding a Rocket Bunny Pandem widebody kit would be easiest.

Here's a shot of it without being molded.

elitezdc5

fender flare everything

JDMswagSerf

gravelgrinder94

Just buy the fiberglass rivet on type (about $100 a set on eBay), they look pretty decent and are flexible so they can conform to the side of the car pretty well.
Rivet them on just like intended. There are little dips where the rivets go so they don't stick past the outside surface. They will be strongest if you rivet. Then fiberglass them into the side of the car, obviously covering the rivets. Then fill, sand and paint. If you want to shave all the badges then you will be doing this anyway I assume, so should be perfect. Could be super clean I think, and still have all the strength.