CU1981

I'll start at the beginning and try to make this brief.

Car wouldn't start. Got a new battery, put new battery in. Car would not start till after about 5 or 6 cranks. Got home.

Next morning, car wouldn't start, did some research figured it was the starter. Got a new starter put in it. Started up fine when I picked it up today. Engine light came on. Called auto store so I could swing buy and get the codes read. Here's what my print out says for that:

Trouble Code p0325 (Honda Accord LX, 2005)

4 cylinder by the way...

Code Definition: Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction

Possible Causes
*Ks connector damaged
*Ks has failed
*KS signal circuit is open
*KS signal is shorted to ground
*PCM has failed

They said it probably wasn't a big deal but when I get a chance, run by the dealer to check it out.

Left, got less than a mile down the road, battery light comes on. Go back to parts store. They test the alternator and it's not charging the battery (staying at 70% and only reading 30 volts? I thought that was enough but I guess not, I dunno I'm not a mechanic). Got new alternator while there, mobile mechanic put it in easily while I was there watching. Turned car on, battery light was off, came on AGAIN after less than 5 mins.

They tested again, battery still only read 70% but that the alternator should be charging it to 100. Put in new battery thinking maybe the alternator fried a cell on the way there. Same issue, battery light is staying on.

Why the hell is my battery light on?
NEW BATTERY
NEW ALTERNATOR
NEW STARTER

WTF? PLEASE Help ASAP.

CU1981

Drove it home and no problems going down the road, the engine light and battery light just stayed on the whole time.

fly_high_gsr

Don't drive with battery light on, it will kill it your new battery because alternator is not charging and your putting tons of load on your battery. You might got short circuit some where in wiring, check fuses if it's putting to much load it will blow fuses.

CU1981

The alternator is less than 6 hours old dude lol. It can't get any newer. It's not draining the battery, we left the tester on there, it's just not charging it. If it was draining the battery, we would have seen that. I'm thinking it's wiring. No fuses are blown.

tech8

Even though you say no fuses are blown, you may want to check the under-dash Fuse No. 18 (15A) to see if it is blown. Also, check if there is battery voltage at the fuse. This fuse (via the Blk/Yel wire) supplies the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly. Even though the alternator was replaced, if that fuse is blown or there is no power/voltage going through the Blk/Yel wire to the alternator, the alternator will not properly charge the battery.

CU1981

Thanks man I'll check that in the morning. Could that fuse being blown cause my battery light to stay on?

tech8

The battery symbol light is actually the charging system indicator; it means the battery is not being charged. So, yes, the fuse I referred to can result in that indicator being on.

CU1981

Alright next question, if it is that fuse, (and I'm not really worried about it b/c I can get a free replacement of either) will it screw up my battery/alternator if I drive it 8 miles to the part place? Also do you know anything about that K sensor thing?

fly_high_gsr

I drove almost 55 miles with bad alternator in my 00 civic Si, I had good battery it held on. I'm sure 8 miles wouldn't hurt but try not to use any lights, radio.

You mean knock sensor? What about it?

VeeSykkz

check knock sensor wiring. Thats not the knock detection warning...it cant FIND the sensor. Im betting thats your short. That could have caused poor start and no charge negating the need for the 3 useless parts you swapped

DCFIVER

Check the ALT fuse. Also whoever put in the starter either broke the knock sensor or didn't plug it back it. (It is right next to the starter)

tech8

Since the car starts and runs, the under-hood Fuse No. 22 (100A) - Battery would not be an issue or under-hood Fuse No. 23 (50A) - B IG1 Main. There is no ALT fuse, per se.

A blown under-dash Fuse No. 18 (15A) will still allow the car to start and run; but, the alternator will not properly charge the battery.

In regards to the knock sensor code, there is the possibility the connector may not have been properly plugged in or the knock sensor broken during starter replacement like DCFIVER mentioned.

CU1981

UPDATE

This issue has been resolved.

Someone said I had 3 useless parts lol

First of all, the battery had been in there over 4 years and when I went to jump it, I cleaned the terminals and noticed it was cracked around them, leaking fluid, etc. THATS why I bought a new battery.

Secondly, after the new battery was put in, still no crank until 5 or 6 tries and next morning, nothing. The mechanics tested the starter and it WAS bad.

So that's 2 parts I DID need...

Anyway, I bought the alternator but come to find out, it wasn't bad. They tested the old one and it passed, which led me back to the mechanic. He didn't charge me for the tow or the repair.

The issue: A loose cable that wasn't put back in place after starter installation. Thanks for all the help guys. Now the Accord runs like a dream.

VeeSykkz

glad it was a simple fix. I worked at napa for 2 years and people often came in insisting blame on one part, while we suggest another. We didnt know the age of those first parts you replaced, and we have all replaced something that turned out to be good being affected elsewhere.