HuntR85

2004 Honda Accord
Automatic
V.6

Never had any issues with vehicle until I changed the oil and replaced the headlights/brights (9006/9005) bulbs. To do so on the driver's side, I had to remove the battery. Once I completed the bulb installation, I re-installed the battery. I started the vehicle right up, took it for a spin before I released it back to my wife. Returned home after about a 5 mile drive. Once I returned, I checked the brightness all new bulbs, but before I did, I thought it would be better to have the car running for the bulbs to receive the most power. I attempted to start the vehicle again, nothing happened. I heard a click (I know if was the starter cut-out relay) which is a good sign, but the starter and engine never attempted to crank. I tested the battery output, voltage was at 12.48, I did have it recharged to full power even though that is more than plenty to start the vehicle. I tested to ensure the battery was grounded properly to the chassis. I tested to ensure the engine was grounded properly to the chasses as well. Both were SAT checks. I attempted to jump the solenoid, with e-brake on, car in park, key was in for a few attempts, out for others. Either way, both produced the same result, (starter motor turned on, I heard is spinning properly.) I disconnected the control terminal on the solenoid (smaller cable of the 3, not the Battery Pos+ cable on the solenoid, nor the cable that runs from the ignition system to the solenoid, but cable that runs from the solenoid to the starter. Anyhow, I tested it's output after disconnecting that cable, hooked up my ground lead from my tester to neg- terminal on battery, hooked up my pos+ lead on tester to control terminal on solenoid to see if there was a loss of power from battery pos+ terminal on the actual solenoid to that control terminal on solenoid. The output, out of 20x was 11Volts consistently. So I found a loss of about 1.5 Volts, but 11 Volts is still more than enough to start this car. I checked the starter cut-out relay within the inside panel fusebox, I checked it for both continuity and voltage. This is where I begin to question what I'm doing, because I don't know how to do the following: (from Haynes Maintenance Manual)

Check that there is no continuity between terminals 1 and 2 with power disconnected. (Does that mean disconnect the neg- terminal on battery? Does that mean do not engage key?) Because I thought the purpose of the relay switch was to only provide power to the solenoid if the ignition system was actively engaged (i.e. turning key to start position) The manual goes on to say, Then check that there IS continuity between terminals 1 and 2 when terminals 3 and 4 are connected to power and ground respectively. (Alright, how the heck do I do that?) I start to think I need to testers, or I need to have the battery's neg- terminal connected.

Anyhow, this is what I did do. I verified I heard a click coming from the relay mentioned above by hold a finger on it while starting the vehicle. I also checked the voltage readings of Terminal's 1 and 2, then later on Terminal's 3 and 4. With power connected to T1 ground to T2, I engaged the key and the readings, out of about 10x consistently was 11.50 Volts. The same results were yielded when testing T3 and T4.

I feel that after all these tests this is what I learned. Nothing. Haha. Not really, I feel though that I learned that I am getting enough power to the solenoid's Pos+ Battery terminal (12.47V), I am getting enough power from the solenoid's Pos+ Battery terminal to the solenoid's control terminal (11.00V). I am getting enough power from starter cut-out relay (11.50V). The engine and the battery are both grounded properly. The starter motor works, the solenoid works.

I think maybe I need to test the output of the starter cut-out relay to the Solenoid. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Also, you may be wondering why I do all these tests so many times, well, it's because the car actually starts about 10/20+ attempts. So I'm thinking there could be a short in the solenoid, possibly a loose connection somewhere, or maybe a bad wire/connection between the output of the starter cut-out relay to the solenoid.

Please help. Thanks. By the way, don't read this and believe I know what I'm talking about. I have no problem admitting these are the things I have learned over the past few days. Thanks again in advance.

ed4ward1982

geeze! just have your local auto parts store test your battery for free, it only takes about five mins. btw the batt voltage should be 12.6V

Targa250R

Chances are that the positive or negative battery cable clamp is not making full contact with the battery terminal post.

HuntR85

@ ed4ward1982 - The battery has been tested, at the time I brought it in it was at 12.3V, so they recharged it for me.

@Targa250R - I've checked the connections/cables, cleaned the posts. Don't think it's a battery issue. The car is starting the first time 4/5 times now. Maybe a short in the solenoid? The times it doesn't start, it doesn't even attempt to turnover.

Nahian Latif

oxygen sensor? spark plugs? hmmm...

gatorrich

Bump

I have the same problem.

BLKFLSH

When it doesn't start, are you getting power to the starter?

gatorrich

Yes, I can hear it spinning.

I tested the battery last night,all is good. Connections are good as well.

This happened once before about 2 weeks ago in a walmart parking lot. It started right up after a half hour or so.

I just tried it again after it sat over night and still nothing.

gatorrich

So I tapped on the starter while my friend tried to start the car. Guess what? It fired right up! Tried to start it again with out tapping and all I got was a click. Tapped on it again, started right up!!!

Ordered a new starter from Advance Auto with a life time warranty for 125.

BLKFLSH

That's great. Glad you figured it out.

kenat

Hi Everyone. I'm in need of some major help!! I have a 2004 accord lx v6. Last week I got an oil change, which I don't think actually caused any issues. But two days ago my boyfriend replaced my low beam headlights in my car. I started it up to turn the wheel to get to the driver side headlight and the car didn't really start, so I figured I just didn't turn the key all the way and restarted it just fine. When he went to do the passenger side, the car started right up. With that being said, my car won't start at all now. I haven't driven it since I turned it off to do the passenger side headlight. The engine turns over and you can hear it, the serpentine (what I'm assuming is the serpentine belt on the left side of the motor) is nice and tight and has no visible issues. My boyfriend looked in the case at the timing belt and said it is spinning as well. I have checked my fuses that are engine related. I bought my battery about a year ago, so I don't think that is the issue or the engine wouldn't be turning over?? Tonight he's going to look at the headlights again and see if he pulled a wire or something, but other than that kind of at a loss. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.