BLKFLSH

My A/C compressor clutch is not engaging. I checked everything electrical, using the Helm manual (relay, relay socket, continuity to clutch wire from fuse box). I got no error codes from either the HVAC, or the MICU. The manual states the the clearance between the clutch plate and the pulley should be between .35 mm and .60 mm. I got the feeler gauge down there, and the feeler gauge blade of .66 mm went in the gap pretty easy, so I'm wondering if the gap is too large, preventing the clutch from engaging. Has anyone ever removed the compressor clutch, with the compressor still in the car? Is .66 mm enough to prevent engagement? Thanks for any help you can give.

Kiwibird83

Are you getting voltage to the clutch itself? Continuity is one thing, but if the ECM isn't commanded to engage the clutch then it doesn't matter what the air gap is. Check for voltage at the clutch with the A/C on and if it's not present make sure the system is properly charged, a low system=no clutch engagement due to the low side switch commanding the ECM to not engage the clutch.

BLKFLSH

So I am assuming that single wire going to the clutch is a power wire, and the compressor is grounded to the engine? The manual didn't mention that in the troubleshooting, it just said to check for continuity to the under hood fuse box. I will definitely check that out. I don't have any knowledge of pressures or know how to check them, so I'm trying to find the problem any (other) way possible. Thanks for the tip.

KWayRacing

Yes the single wire is battery voltage when the ac is on. If this wire has prper voltage then the most lilely cause is the field coil. While it is possible to change both while the compressor remains in the vehicle, unless I had a rack I would not attempt it.

BLKFLSH

Thanks for the confirmation KWay. No, I don't have a rack, but I'm pretty good on my back.

BLKFLSH

I went out to do some diagnosing this morning. Decided I would make sure I have the same symptoms (both fans, and blower would work, but the compressor clutch would not engage). Well the darn thing worked. It was cool this morning, so maybe it will decide not to work this afternoon, when it's warmer. Would the fact that it was not working, and now it is, point to a refrigerant pressure situation? Would the temperature, and humidity, have a major affect on pressure? If it stops working again, I'll have someone check the system pressure. I don't have any equipment for that. I'll let you know how it all works out.

BLKFLSH

The compressor started shutting off again this afternoon, so I have a question. If the pressure switch shuts down the A/C, would the fans, and blower still function?

DELuth

blower yes

fans no

BLKFLSH

It must be a pressure problem. I'm stuck at this point. Now the compressor (cold air) works for about 10 minutes, then shuts off (fans too). If the pressure is low, does that mean there HAS TO BE A LEAK? Or can it be low, without a leak?

KWayRacing

Does the blower motor continue to work normally on all settings? If so then I would also lean towards a pressure/ charge issue. A good visual inspection of the lines will usually show some oily areas especially near crimps/ connections that would obviously indicate a leak. While evaporator/ compressor seal leaks are not super rare occurences in 03-07 accords I would check the static and working pressures and if low then evac and recharge with the addition of some untraviolet dyed oil and monitor the leak. A very slight leak might take a while to be able to dicaover after installation. So after it is properly charged just wait until you have diminished performance and then UV inspect the sytem. THis method will find 99.9% of all ac leaks.

BLKFLSH

The blower motor works normally. If I put the autoclimate on low, the blower will blow full blast. So this points to a leak in the system? I noticed the bottom (I guess it's the return hose) was dirty, but I figured it got dirty from road grime, since it's so low. I'm going to take a closer look at that hose tomorrow. How much would a shop charge to recharge with the dye? I have no idea. Thanks for all your help

DELuth

If that hose is wet at all, it is leaking.

The evap sensor is another possibility if it isn't a leak.

Make sure the blower works at all speeds, not just full.

Does the ac cool well before it shuts down?

BLKFLSH

The hose didn't look wet, just dirty. Should have looked closer at the fitting. The A/C blows ice cold, for a few minutes, then dies out. Just tried the blower, and it works at all speeds, even though the compressor did not come on at all.

KWayRacing

Most shops run some sort of ac inspection service 60-120 bucks not including refrigerant.

BLKFLSH

Thanks KWay. I'll let you know what they find. I'm too chicken to try a recharge kit, and I certainly wouldn't take anything apart, to try and fix a leak anyway. I'm guessing the dealership would be the best place to go.

DELuth

If it was a low charge, it wouldn't be ice cold and then suddenly quit. At best you would have slightly cool air on the passenger side and warm air on the drivers side. Also, once the compressor shut off and the pressures equalized, the pressure switch would see pressure again and turn the fans and comp back on. You have another problem. Let us know how it turns out.

BLKFLSH

Well it didn't suddenly quit, just kind of faded out. Even when the compressor was working, it would cycle every few seconds, like it was on the edge of shutting off. The air coming out of the center vents was pretty cold, but the vent by the driver's door was not very cold. It only lasts about 10 minutes, and that was only when the humidity was low. The humidity is pretty high today, so it probably wouldn't come on at all, if I tried it right now. Humidity does effect the pressure, right? It may be another week or so, before we can bring it in. Wish me luck.

DELuth

Well THAT description does sound like a low charge, lol.

BLKFLSH

Local dealership says the compressor clutch and stator need to be changed, at a cost of $650. Wish I could change this myself, but I don't have the equipment to discharge and recharge the system. I thought about trying to change the clutch and stator with the compressor still in the car, but it doesn't look possible. I hate to admit defeat, but I just don't think I can do this job myself. I know $650 seems like a lot, but I figure an independant shop wouldn't be that much cheaper, using Honda (Denso) parts.