flightguy

I have a 2004 Accord, and am having some issues with it.

Last summer, the AC seemed to work pretty well. As the summer went on, it was getting warmer and warmer, but it was still cool. I charged the system with some r134, and it worked well. Then, the winter hit.

It got warm enough 2 weeks ago that I had to use the AC. And as I turned it on, it was nearly hot. It cooled off a little, but not the way it should have. It was no where near cold. So I stop by the parts store, charged the system a little more, and was on my way. And it was cold.

Forward, a week...and I use the AC again. And it's not cold. I'm going to guess about 80-85 coming out of the vents. Drivers side left vent is warmer than DS right vent is warmer than passenger side Left vent (don't know about the passenger side right vent).

Today, I turned the AC on again, and still no change on the temperature (surprise, right?). Anyways, I turn on the car, AC is in the off position. As it idles at about 1200, I turn the AC on, and I get zero change in the idle RPM. And that has me worried that it's a compressor.

Want to hear what other thoughts for the knowledge base out there.

I've done quite a bit of home fixing. I've replaced a water pump and timing belt in a 4Runner. I've been doing brakes on my honda's since my first one in 94 (an 82 accord). I even rebuilt the carbeurator on that '82 into working order (somewhat of a surprise to me).

Thanks in advance.

tech8

You may have a leak in the A/C system. One area of the leak can be at the A/C condenser, if a rock hits it.

Honda had info. that an indicator of low refrigerant is when the left dashboard vent is warmer than the right one, with the A/C on; which you previously experienced. When that happens, the evaporator core isn't being flooded with enough liquid refrigerant, causing it to fully vaporize halfway through the core. As a result, the side of the core with some refrigerant (the right side) stays cold, while the side that's fully vaporized (the driver's duct) is warmer by about 20 degrees (or more in some cases).

flightguy

Well, that's unfortunate. Is leak testing a matter of taking it to a dealer/shop? I can think of looking for leaks by using a soap solution. If it's at a joint, that's nice and easy...if I can see the entire threaded joint. If it's somewhere along the lines, then it's a long distance that I have to look through

lazlong

They have UV dye for that but, at least physically inspect the compressor for damage and where the lines connect to it first.

After you find the leak you need vac down the system then add refrigerant. Unless you know someone with the equipment for that it's easiest just to bite the bullet and have a shop do it. Although, it is cheaper if you fix the leak yourself and all their doing is vacuum and refill.

VeeSykkz

thats definitely a system leak as stated above. You didnt notice during winter because the heater works off the coolant system unlike a house ac with a reversing valve. at the rate you're losing coolant you need to get it to a shop BEFORE it damages the compressor from loss of oil.

flightguy

I finally was able to purchase the leak test kit. I used it yesterday, letting the dye circulate in the system for about 10-15 minutes. High flow, recirculate, AC on. I turn off the engine, use the UV light...and find absolutely no leaks anywhere in the engine compartment. I follow the high and low pressure lines from the firewall, to the right side of the engine, up to the radiator and into the compressor.

I looked as well as I could at every single joint, fitting and attachment for the pressure lines. I can't seem to find any leak. I understand the concept of the AC system. I KNOW that only way you can get a drop of pressure is if you have a leak. So why can't I find a leak?!?

sytntyt

If the compressor isn't coming on your not circulating the dye. turn the car on and watch the compressor clutch. Make sure the face is turning and not just the pulley part of the clutch. if the face is spinning it generally means you have enough pressure and it's not completely empty. If this is the case you can try a can of r134a to see if system takes some of it and see if you get a change iN tem. The other possible problem is a failed dryer unit which could of contaminated the system (black death and I usually see this on 90 percent of 03-05 accords thst come in for ac issues ) this requires replacing compressor, Condenser(flushing is possible but why take the chance of ruining your new system) drier, hoses, expansion valve and evaporator (again flushable but at,your own risk). Easiest way to know if you have black death is pull the drier (lower drivers side.of condenser) held in by,2 10mm bolts. If you pull,it out look in,the end of it. If you see little black ***** or shake it and it sounds like a maraca. It's failed. You can also disconnect fittings going to firewall,and swab with Cotton swab. If it's black your system is toast.