carrollrucker

I could write a book on the trouble I have had w/ this 2001 Honda Accord and trying to get it running again, but long story short- the motor blew, and I had a mechanic put in another used engine. Car never ran right and had it back to him four different times. Finally took it to a Honda dealership for a diagnostic where they told me the guy had put the wrong motor in the car- it was just a basic motor and he put in a VTech. Also found out the catalytic converter had been cut off, supposedly bc this was a reason why it was not accelerating properly (bc it was clogged?). New mechanic wants $2K to put in a correct (used) wiring harness, computer, and catalytic converter. I am already out $2K from first mechanic.

So my questions are:
1. Is a catalytic converter necessary to the proper running of the vehicle. (Not asking about gas mileage or emission standards).
2. Can this car be driven as is, without having the VTech 'hooked up'? (I know it won't have the power, but will it hurt the engine to leave it this way).
3. Is there really a completely different wiring harness for this engine, or is there just a different set of wires that are hooked up from the same generic harness IF there's a VTech?

Bottom line is, I have no more money to put into this car but it seems to be running fine and I'd like to drive it locally until I am able to either get it fixed right or get a new car. Thanks for any input!

Grandhustleman86

we need more information about what motor is inside the car now...here ive supplied a picture of where to determine what engine you have. you might need to clean tha location to read it. Look for the Engine code it should be a F23, but there are different models of the F23...f23a1 for instance. just check it out and post back on here.

MAD_MIKE

In the US...
LX/EX/SE models had the F23A1 or F23A4 engines, both VTEC.
DX/LX value package models came with the F23A5, non-VTEC.
A1 and A4 engines will have a higher concentration of precious metals in the converter, even when it is 'dead' it is worth some cash in scrap.
If the first mechanic was at a shop then you need to get your money back(small claims) what it will take to fix the problem. He is obviously not capable of properly installing the correct engine.
Finding a correct PCM/harness for your car should not be too expensive, and if you can turn a screw driver, should be able to pickup a harness and PCM. The most expensive part would be the catalyst. Honda dealer will charge you Honda prices. Look to the aftermarket for a replacement catalyst. RockAuto has good prices.
You will have a permanent code of P0420 without the catalyst and the CEL will be on. '96+ cars have an after catatlyst O2 sensor which monitors emissions output. AFAIK it will not affect performance, but the CEL will be on.
It won't hurt the engine, but the engine will be down on power as it will most likely not rev. Have you noticed it not being able to rev past a certain RPM?
There is the wiring for the VTEC solenoid/VTEC oil pressure switch that non-VTEC engines do not have. And the pinout between PCM to harness may have a few wires in different spots from VTEC to non-VTEC.
Get three written estimates from licensed mechanics on what it would take to fix your car. The cheapest/easiest would most likely be to find the correct engine install it back into your car along with a new catalyst. I would file small claims and try to get your money back. Original 'mechanic' royally screwed up and should have noted differences, either out of negligence or ignorance did not care or know there was a difference.

carrollrucker

Thanks so much for your responses. They have triggered more questions though, plus I just got it back from the last mechanic and found out more info:

Regarding RPMs, the only time this was an issue was bf he cut off the catalytic converter.

First- we drove the car about 20-30 minutes to get it back home, and it sounds like it's running hot- not steaming or spewing but making a strong bubbling sound and a little wetness around radiator cap. Running hot was the original reason we had to get a new engine in to begin w/, so original issue is still there. Radiator has been flushed and new cap put on, but that's it. We thought that problem was solved, but apparently not.

Second- the oil light is STILL coming on after about 30 minutes of driving. Oil sensor has been changed and compression test done. So referencing what you said above the oil pressure switch, could the actual oil light (NOT CEL) come on like this due to the engine mix-up and not really be a problem?

Lastly- these are the codes the last mechanic said came up on the diagnostic:
P0118- ECT Sensor High Output
P0700- A/T System Malfunction
P1753- TCC Solenoid Valve a Failure

Engine Compression Results:
Cylinder 1: 190, Cylinder 2: 185, Cylinder 3: 195, Cylinder 4: 195 (mechanic said this was good)

tim73

The running hot isnt good. I have to wonder what was the condition of this engine, the original mechanic put in it. ou should be able to see teh ECT output on a good OBD2 meter, the gauge isnt very accurate. From my understanding, the oil light comes on, if #1 oil pressure drops below 4.5PSI, it will blink. If it drops and stays below 4.5PSI, it stays on. I assume he changed the oil and put a quality oil filter on? What part of country you at?

carrollrucker

I am in Columbia, SC.

carrollrucker

Also the last mechanic I took it to said the oil light was coming on bc the wire going into the sensor was loose and needed to be replaced.

MAD_MIKE

If there is a coolant leak/air leak in the system, or air not properly purged from the system with coolant replacement, you may hear gurgling. There is a valve that allows coolant to flow through the heater core as well. If it is not open when flushing air may become trapped in the system. There is a small bleeder valve on the backside of the thermostat housing that needs to be opened in order to purge the air out of the coolant system.
Oil pressure switch for the oil light on the dash and the VTEC oil pressure switch are two different things. If there was a problem with the VTEC oil pressure switch it would set off the CEL light. If your oil pressure light is coming on there is either an oil pressure problem or a problem with the wiring to the oil pressure switch. Verify there is enough oil and look for leaks.
Have an oil gauge attached to the engine and monitor the oil pressure.
Strange it comes on after 30mins of driving, but I suspect this may have something to do with a possible overheating issue you are experiencing with the coolant system gurgling.
P0118 ECT is the thermo sensor for the PCM, if it has failed the PCM will not know the correct engine temp and may be in a 'limp' mode. This will affect how the engine runs and how the transmission shifts, or may not allow it to upshift to 4th.

P0700 is a generic' there is something wrong with your Automatic Transmission', pretty nondescript.

P1753 is for the Shift Solenoid 'A' which controls lockup of the converter.
Check the wiring to the solenoids. This pair of solenoids is located closest to the engine and are pointing 'up' towards the hood/radiator.