ashb82

I changed my oil today i found some shavings in my oil they where copper and the size of a period on your key board. I drained the oil threw a white t-shirt. I only found 5 of the flakes is this ok. the copper color is what scared me i have seen oil with a spun bearing it had millions of copper flakes.

ashb82

I got problems i cut my oil filter open. I have a bearing problem i think. I checked everything 10X guess i missed something. Going to pull the oil pan a check the bearings. Oh yes the fun.

ashb82

My oil pump blew out

Andryzzle

that sucks, hopefully nothing is too damaged

redzcstandardhatch

what crank pulley are you running? these engines NEED good dampning, like, at least a stock pulley. i would run an ATI or Fluidampr if you are having problems.

i'd put money on you hurt your main bearings (not rods, like an under-oiling situation). happened to me 3 times. got a fluidampr, and no problems anymore.

good luck man

redzcstandardhatch

BTW, lemme know if you need a crank, i picked up a couple of free f22s recently.

ashb82

If i got alot of damage i am going to put a stock bottom end on it for a while

redzcstandardhatch

what pulley did you have on it?

ashb82

stock but it has a wobble in it

ashb82

I blew out number 3 main bearing. It did not spin just warn down wtf happen

d112crzy

possibly ****ed crank.

ashb82

Are you saying from the start or are you saying after the bearing failure. After the bearing failure it needs a new crank. i got a f22b1 that has 60K on it i am pulling it apart this week and throwing in the piston n rods. The f22b1 i know ran flawless when i took it out i could not blow it. I am also ordering a fluidampr

jdg1986

It seems as if your having nothing but bad luck.Keep going,It will defenetly be worth all the trouble.I really appreciate you writing a thread on this build,I find it to very informative.Good luck with the build.

ashb82

i figured out the Problem. My engine block was warped, the main journals needed to be line bored. I noticed when i decked the block the sleeves looked like they where shifted. then i honed the cylinders true. i thought that would make the block true. i never thought to check the straightness of the mains since the bearing clearances where good.what i did to check this lay a straight edge across the radius of the mains just as a crank would lay in the mains. i then checked to see if you could rock the straight edge and used a .001 filler gauge to check the gap from the straight edge to the main journal radius. also the straight edge is 1" wide

redzcstandardhatch

glad you figured it out!

i never build an engine that isnt perfect before disasembly anymore (bearing wise)...too many variables and what-if's.

at least it'll be a relatively cheap fix.

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

Ha, so I was right it was that garbage UR pulley you had huh??? A bunch of morons on CB7tuner were arguing with me that those piles of **** are the hottest thing since Tapitio...

Retards. How you been man



ASH:

SOrry to hear, fixerman.


Ericks is running like a raped ape still...

ashb82

i will be junking the block and crank. I got a good running f22b1 i will be using. what does it take to put a f22a head on f22b1 block

redzcstandardhatch

absolutely bolts right on.

make sure you dont need to add a oil-port-thinger (behind the middle rear head stud)...make sure its the same as the block you take the head off. the f22a1 head needs a restrictor in the block..and i think ALL f series do,but cant remember).

i had an a1 head on a b2 block a while back...and i think i bolted it right on...cant remember anything special.

redzcstandardhatch

anything less than a MINT stock pulley is NOW STUPID in my book! got a custom-offset Fluidampr, and NO MORE PROBLEM EVER...

dbsharp

If you didn't have bad luck you'd have none! lol.

Off topic.... I wound up just buying a rod bolt stretch gauge. I was going to use your idea about making one. I was going to use the bore gauge anvil and a dial gauge I have and the aluminum bracket I cut off my holset. If I had a good drill press it would have worked. Would have been one ghetto looking tool though. LOL.

I might still make it for ***** and giggles though.

Anyways good luck getting it back together!

ashb82

i will get it back together in about 2 weeks i got to order some parts

ashb82

Going with a H22 ATI Dampener. I think it will fit alot better than the other brands. Remeber this is a H2b Civic so i dont have alot of room

redzcstandardhatch

you'll love it. they really do wonders for your bearings on a higher HP setup.

GhostAccord

I have been looking into using ether an ATI or Fluidampner. On Summit racing.com there is one thing that caught my attention in the item description about the ATI street dampener.

here is the link;
Summitracing.com/ATI Super Street

5,800rpm??? I'm guessing that this must be a misprint. Anyone have any other specs on these? ATI lists a generic description for both the street & race. Doesn't say anything about RPM only that they are SFI 18.1 certified....

ashb82

I called ATI friday they told me the street was the Same as the Race dampener, but with a bolt on pulley for power steering.I want be using the bolt on pulley. Thats the same one i ordered.