rice_classic

My sister's 1992 accord EX just up and died on the freeway yesterday and after it was towed to my house I checked for fuel/air/spark. It's definitely getting fuel and definitely NOT getting spark. I asked her about any symptoms before death and she said that there were NO signs. "It went from running perfectly to not running at all."

I asked her if the tach bounced around at all (cuz that happens alot when an ignitor is dying). She said no, not at all.

So I got a tool that verifies if spark is traveling through the wires... I tested it on my car to make sure it works and yes it works so when we try it on her car...NOTHING. Since the car has an external coil I tested the coil wire and since there was no reading I'm deducting that it's the coil.... Should I replace the coil and coil wire or should I keep searching?

For the love of god if anyone has anything to add.. please post!!!

TIA

gottats25

lol.........my 92 dx just did the same thing......my brother told me it was the coil...so i changed it.....well he was wrong....it was the distributor

bill-71SS

most likely it will be the igniter

P_Adams

Before you get all warm and fuzzy about condeming the distributor, you MIGHT want to check if the timing belt has given up the ghost.
Honda has this nasty habit of driving their distributors off the camshaft.......
.... if the cam don't move, the distributor don't move

Once rotation is verified, THEN start condeming the ignition system.

P

rice_classic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Before you get all warm and fuzzy about condeming the distributor, you MIGHT want to check if the timing belt has given up the ghost.
Honda has this nasty habit of driving their distributors off the camshaft.......
.... if the cam don't move, the distributor don't move

Once rotation is verified, THEN start condeming the ignition system.

P</TD></TR></TABLE>

The belt is the first thing I checked. I'm going to pick up a coil from a salvage yard tomorrow and I will try that... If not, I will return it for a distributor.

It could be the ignitor as well but I'm under the influence that before an ignitor goes bad it causes fluctuations in the tachometer (at least the 5 I have replaced on my crx's did!).

ALL INPUT IS WELCOME (except negative input of course).

If I find it out right away, of course I will update.

rice_classic

Well, it wasn't the coil.

deserthonda

it would be a lot cheaper to diagnose properly before throwing money away on uneeded parts ,, and 1 more question that is a coil from a junk yard correct?? how do you know that the coil is any good ????
like someone else said most likely the ignitor i have seen a **** load go bad but always diagnose before replacing it ....

rice_classic

200$ to diagnosis (100+ to tow it to Honda, 92$+tax to diagnose).

I can replace the coil and dizzy for under that.

But you're right.. under normal conditions I would pay to have it diagnosed properly. Now, since I don't have a Helms Manual (it's my sisters car) I need to figure out how to get the damn dizzy rotor off!

deserthonda

THE ROTOR JUST PRYS OFF GET A SCRWDRIVER AND GENTLY PRY FROM SIDE TO SIDE ,,,,,, FOR AS EASY AS IT IS YOU MIGHT WANT TO TAKE THE DYZZY OUT OF CAR

rice_classic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THE ROTOR JUST PRYS OFF GET A SCRWDRIVER AND GENTLY PRY FROM SIDE TO SIDE ,,,,,, FOR AS EASY AS IT IS YOU MIGHT WANT TO TAKE THE DYZZY OUT OF CAR </TD></TR></TABLE>

done.

Now that I have 2 coils and a distributor in pieces, is there a way to individually test each of these components? I don't want to "throw" anymore parts at the car if I can test each one.

How do I go about individually testing the coil and/or ignitor?

gottats25

lol i asked the same question when mine went out. i gave up and just replaced the dist. this is gonna be a stupid question, but you did mark it before taking it off right?

rice_classic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gottats25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol i asked the same question when mine went out. i gave up and just replaced the dist. this is gonna be a stupid question, but you did mark it before taking it off right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Naturally, without thinking.

The_Todd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How do I go about individually testing the coil and/or ignitor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You use a voltometer and test the resistance between the positive (inside part with the spring) and negative terminal and then the same for the positive terminal (next to the negative one) and the negative terminal. I don't remember exact numbers but I will try and find them. If you have a haynes or chiltons or some sort of service manual it will tell you the parameters of the test.

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How do I go about individually testing the coil and/or ignitor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It depends on the tools you have: Do you have a test light? Multimeter? Dwell meter?

rice_classic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It depends on the tools you have: Do you have a test light? Multimeter? Dwell meter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fluke Multimeter

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fluke Multimeter</TD></TR></TABLE>
Engine Won’t Start? Check
Coil & Igniter
On models with single-coil ignition systems, if the
engine cranks but there’s no spark at the plugs, check the
ignition coil and the ICM (ignition control module
[igniter]) by using this procedure:
NOTE: Wire colors for wires referenced here can vary
between models, so use the appropriate ETM to ID them.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL
(malfunction indacator lamp).
• If the MIL doesn’t come on, or it comes on and
stays on, refer to MIL Basics on this page.
• If the MIL comes on for two seconds and then goes
off, go to step 2.
2. Check for battery voltage at the positive wire going
to the coil, and at the positive wire going to the ICM.
• If you have battery voltage, go to step 3.
• If you don’t have battery voltage, check for an
open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and the
coil.
3. Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative terminal
and ground, and record the cranking voltage two ways:
first with the wire between the coil and ICM connected,
then with it disconnected.
• If you get about 8 V with the wire conected and
10 V with it disconnected, install a new coil, and
retest.
• If you get about 10 V with the wire connected and
disconected, install a new ICM, and retest.

rice_classic

I tested the coil (by getting another from the salvage yard) then I had Napa test the ignitor (it was good) so by reasonable deduction I assumed it was the Crank Angle Sensor (TDC) in the Dizzy housing.

I bought a new dizzy from a company on ebay and voila.... Fired right up and runs like a champ.

The_Todd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I bought a new dizzy from a company on ebay and voila.... Fired right up and runs like a champ.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad you got her fixed .