bw77

2002 Accord 4cyl, noticed brake fluid leak under car. Removed 2 plastic
covers and found very rusted and leaking rear brake lines. 3 fuel lines
are very rusted but not leaking. Upstate NY, lots of salt.

Brake lines are not too bad under hood and rear of plastic covers.

2 new brake pipes are about 240+shipping online. Not sure how
difficult it would be to instal them with the car on jack stands.

My plan is to use copper/nickel brake line, bend to shape, and run
from proportioning valve to non-rusted section at rear of plastic
cover. Cut and flare steel brake lines in place and use a flare union
to connect.

Clean up and leave fuel lines in place for now.

Plastic covers and 5-line clamps were damaged in removing.
But most of them can be cleaned up and reused.
I think I need to replace them to stabilize the 5 lines.

Any ideas/experiences/advice on this job?

Thanks.

steve 95 ex

I did this on a 95 last year.
Brake lines I got from napa in sections with unions.
Fuel lines I made from brake lines. 5/16 and 1/4 I think they were. They appeared to be standard size with a thinner wall thickness than the brake lines.
They have metric threads on the fittings though, and the filter connection is special so,stay down stream from that.
Good luck, not fun but better than $600 dollars in parts.
Steve

bw77

Got 'er done. New copper/nickel lines from the proportioning valve to just
ahead of the left rear wheel where the lines are straight. Used 2 flare
unions, no leaks.

I bought the Powerhand flare tool on ebay and it worked very well to
make the flares both under the car and on the bench


I bought it on ebay from a seller in the UK, about $80, and had to wait
10 days for it to get to me:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181680836195...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The copper/nickel line is easy to bend. It comes in a roll and I found
it impossible to straighten. There are tools to do that, but I didn't
have one. So it is not a nice straight line under the car.

Also very difficult to thread in the tube nuts into the prop valve.
The angle has to be perfect.

If I had to do this over I would buy straight steel line and just replace
the straight sections under the car and not go forward to the prop
valve. Just too hard to get the bends perfect, especially the tight
ones at the prop valve. It was my first attempt, maybe it gets easier
with practice.

Some of the line holders on the plastic shields broke when I removed them.

Got estimates from 2 dealers for this job. Both around 1300 for 2 new brake lines,
no splicing. Glad I did it myself. I learned a lot.

Cost:
tubing: 42
tube nuts and unions: 12
flaring tool: 80
Total: 134

I had the other tools I needed, including:
tubing cutter, drill bit and countersink to ream tubing, file to chamfer,
flare nut wrenches, brake bleeding setup (plastic tubing and container).