ryandalos

1990 Accord, Manual 2.2l

So I can't find specific posts to my issue. Only similar.

Last month, I got a code for the EGR. I would get a up and down Idle when warm, sometimes die. I replaced the egr, full tune up with new distributor, new plug rings & valve cover gasket, used carb cleaner in the throttle body and tightened the plastic ring for the cold start valve.

When the car is warm, I'll get to a red light and the car wants to idle so low, it wants to die, even as quick as I am downshifting. If it dies, it won't start up right away, I'll have to let it sit for about 10 seconds beford it fires up. I don't see any vaccum leaks and hoses and tubes are tight. I topped off my coolant, too. So, could the car throw an EGR code and it not really be the EGR? Seems like it got worse with the brand new part.

I'm a novice, but I have an okay understanding of Accords, but I'm at a loss. The car is well taken car of and I want to keep it long term. I tightened the throttle cable a little so it idles at about 1,100 to keep it from dying until I can figure it out. Help! & thank you for any input.

ej7attack

is it still throwing the egr code? try taking the vacuum hose off of the egr and plug it with a small bolt. does that fix your problem?

BOOM_FIST

Put your throttle cable back to normal. Try using the idle screw to adjust your idle level.

Refer to this thread for location: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/94-accord-lx-idle-adjustment-how-2669579/

Also, maybe clean your IACV if you haven't already. Don't know if that'll cure your low idle, but wouldn't hurt to do anyway.

dahubby

The idle screw is on the throttle body, facing the passenger side of the car next to the vacum hoses that enter the throttle body. if it has an up and down idle your FITV may need to be serviced.

ej7attack

There are many reasons for this issue. unless someone doesnt know what they are doing, you normally dont need to adjust the idle screw. the fitv normally would cause a higher idle. fast idle thermo valve its called. Iacv could be the culprit. but unsure without op going over his work and cancelling things out.

ryandalos

Thank you all, so far. I'm going to try what has been suggested and get back to you. The FITV is what I assume to be the 'cold start valve' that I referred to in OP? If so, it seems to be working fine. Cleaned and tightened. Anyway, I'll do some footwork and get back to all of you.

MAD_MIKE

If the EGR code is being still being set check the wiring to the lift sensor on the EGR valve.
Some replacement aftermarket EGR valves do not have the correct spring tension or correct port size which can lead to similar issues as if the EGR valve was not operating correctly.

Check your IACV, you have already fixed your FITV(cold start valve), if the IACV is not working your car may stall under load at idle. When idleing the IACV should be activated when turning on the AC. This will slightly raise the idle to compensate for the additional load of the compressor. If nothing happens then the IACV may need to be cleaned.
If you have not cleaned the throttle body itself it may be sealing completely closed at idle if there is a great deal of built up coking. Don't spray inside the TB, get a rag soak it in cleaner and then wipe the TB blade and bore clean.

holmesnmanny

So the magic boogey idle screw monster came and turned the idle adjust screw ?

Unless that happened, you don't touch it. You find and fix the problem that is making your car idle low, you don't touch the idle adjusting screw at all.

The first thing you should look at, as mike already said, is the iacv. Take off the two 12mm bolts that hold the iacv to the intake manifold and clean the outside metal filter that is designed to allow air to idle your car. Be very careful not to lose the oring that surrounds the filter.

MAD_MIKE

This.

Throttle body idle screw is preset from the factory to allow a given amount of blade angle and air flow. You start goofing with this, especially on a Speed Density system, it will screw up other things down the line when/if you fix the initial problem.

There is a procedure on how to adjust the idle screw, but that is a last resort after everything has been fixed. It should not be the go to fix-it solution.

BOOM_FIST

Nothing wrong with adjusting the idle screw especially on a 1990. Who knows if it's even in the factory setting or if its the original TB? It's 24 years old, a lot could have happened to it.

However, I DO agree to troubleshoot other components first, which the OP has stated he has...."I replaced the egr, full tune up with new distributor, new plug rings & valve cover gasket, used carb cleaner in the throttle body and tightened the plastic ring for the cold start valve.", and adjusting the idle screw should not be a go-to fix solution.

The other thing I would have checked is the IACV.

I deleted my IACV and FITV, so I adjusted my idle screw to compensate for a lower idle. Not one single problem after almost a year of doing so.

ryandalos

Plugging it didn't fix it, no.

ryandalos

How exactly would someone service the FITV? I've done all that I believe I can do, but I'm open for suggestions.

ryandalos

Clever...

Like I said, I did that just so I can drive it for the time being, because I didn't have time to troubleshoot. I just wasn't thinking when I did it that way, though I DID mark where the end of one of the nuts went, so I'm not worried about putting it back to factory specs.

ryandalos

I found a hose that was tucked into a harness?? It was sucking air & I THINK that it went to something for the power steering? Someone let me know if that makes sense. Anyway, I sprayed all my vacuum lines with WD40 & inspected all of them. They were all good except for the phantom hose. That raised my Idle a slight bit, so that's good. Also, while it was running, I tapped on the IACV and my idle changed. Pulled it off, the screen was pretty plugged. I cleaned the hell out of that thing, put it back on and everything seemed to be running smoother. Not 100% fixed, though.

It is quick to regulate the idle while at a light now, but at an idle longer than 4 or 5 seconds, it fluctuates between 700-850 quite rapidly... this wasn't doesn't this this consistent before I serviced the IACV. Soooo.... I don't believe I'd need to get a new IACV, but maybe the Map sensor? Does anyone think that could be a next step?

& Yes, I topped off the coolant and ran it with the cap off for awhile until there was no more bubbles.

Thank you all for your input, so far. I'm down to keep learning as I'm going along.

holmesnmanny

1. Any vacuum hose not connected will cause a vacuum leak which will cause your idle to fluctuate.

2. Well this is what I told you to do in that thread that you quoted me but ignored the rest of my post.

(see 1. )

accordturb96

If its a large hose maybe you are holding the line for the brake booster? We need some pictures or more info. I know this hose will cause a drastic idle change

ryandalos

Umm, I will look. After driving it today, it's still wanting to stutter, ugh. It DOES have an aftermarket intake and a brospeed muffler. But I know that can't cause all the problems I've had so far. I can take several pictures today.... but of what, exactly?

ryandalos

Ahhh!!!!! I sprayed intake cleaner into my fitv and moved the valve up and down a lot, then tried to start it and it would only turn over, THEN I saw smoke... it came from a black wire from my distributor... :/ great.

MAD_MIKE

Can you take a pic of the hose and location?
Have you checked your EGR control box?

There should be a plastic box that has a few hoses going in and out of. I *think* on a CB it is located on the firewall, which would be near the main wiring harness, that hose might be part of the EGR controls. If it turns out the hose you have is #40, then you are just missing the plug #16.

Power steering on CBs does route over to the VSS, but I don't know of any vacuum hoses that would go to the PS, or related components.