CBL9

Had this problem for a while now. I recently replaced the rear pads and rotors. Today I did the front pads and rotors. Go for a test drive, and son of a bitch, the shaking continues...

Upper control arms and bushings were replaced in the last six months. LCA ie ball joints were replaced with in the last year and look great on inspection. Tie rod ends, not so hot. Would this cause the violent shaking when slowing down? There really isn't any shaking while cruising, at like highway speeds, and I know its not a misbalanced wheel/tire issue.

Any other ideas that would display these signs under braking only, it is really stressing me out. Car has over 200K on it and its a 93 automatic.

Maachan513

I would rotate tires to see if it makes any difference.

soon2bdropped

any play in the wheel bearings??

Akkord2k1

check the tires and make sure they were put on properly, and maybe rotate them while you're at it. Since your tire rods aren't too hot that can cause some shaking and noise, it happened to me in my Maxima. How are the struts in the car? Have they ever been replaced?

99blackcivicSi

yes tie rod ends can play a factor in that, check runout on your hubs as well could very well be bent.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

If you bought shitty tires then it most certainly can be them - regardless of if the wheels are balanced or not.

phootbag

If the vibration is consistent when braking I would perform a runout inspection of the rotors and hubs. New rotors aren't necessarily going to be straight. Surface imperfections ( a difference in friction coeffcient ) on the rotor can cause a vibration when no measurable runout exists. There are many things that can cause a brake vibration, worn wheel bearings, worn/loose suspension components etc.

CBL9

How does one perform this inspection?

CBL9

It does it regardless of whether I have my snow tires on (Nokians) or my summer tires (Falkens) now that I think of it there is increased wear on the inside of the summer tires, if that helps anyone into figuring out what is wrong.

Also, shocks and springs are original.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Provided you are at stock height - generally the wear on the inside is one or a combination of two things. The biggest one would be toe with camber contributing somewhat - when was the last time you had an full alignment?

holmesnmanny

I bet it's the wheel bearings. Jack the car up so the wheel's off the ground and grab the wheel and try to shake it. If there's play inside the hub it's the bearings.

CBL9

Alignment has been a few years, I would say Summer of 2008. Only reason I have not gotten another one was to determine the cause of the shaking whilst braking, because if that is suspension/steering contributing I don't want to pay for the same service twice, etc.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

The tire wear is most definitely an alignment issue - certainly wouldn't hurt to have it looked at - Honda dealer near me does it for $80 and has it done in an hour.

Ancar

inside tire wear is more than likely alignment issue. plus u did some CA and ball joint work. anytime u do that u should get an alignment. but a good tech would not align your car with badly worn tires, so consider that to

CBL9

Update.

The car has some play side to side when jacking the car up and shaking on the wheels. So I bought two tie rod ends. The only problem is that the jam nuts are on there so damn tight I can't crack either one of them free. There is not a ton of room in there to get any leverage or even get a a good blow with my BFH.

I skipped PB Blaster and just went straight to the propane torch, not budging at all. I figure they have never been replaced in well over 100K miles or 10 years, if they even were replaced at all since thats when I got the car And I have never done them.

Any tips? It sucks an openended wrench can only do so much. I would if a line wrench in that size would clear the inner tie rod shaft??

This looks like it should work

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Snap-...mZ160490528493

phootbag

There is a chance the nuts aren't overtorqued and only corroded a bit inside. Try smacking the nuts with a brass hammer. I've done it hundreds of times.

0HPTautosport

You're going to need acetylene torches to get them off. Propane won't get it hot enough. If you have someone with a torch set have them get them red hot and they should turn right off. GL

phootbag

If you get them red hot you might want to replace the inner tie-rods as well. I wouldn't trust the temper of the metal after that, seeing as how they are steering components.

0HPTautosport

I can see the logic behind this but you're heating the locknut, not the inner arm itself. I'm sure that you will have some heat transfer into the inner arm itself but I can't see this small duration of heat causing structural weakness in the steel. I've done it numerous time on various cars with good results. I've used this method on my SCCA racecar and never had an issue or a failure with years and many races since last replacement.

holmesnmanny

Come on guys I'm surprised this wasn't suggested yet.

Turn the wheel left or right depending on what side you're on and that should move the jam nut out so that you can get on it better. Also, and I think this goes without saying, make sure you're turning it the correct way...you might be tempted to go to the left, looking at the jamnut from the outside, which would be tightening it up.

Also, was my post about checking the wheel bearings in invisible text?

CBL9

Wheel is already turned all the way.

I am turning in the right direction, etc.

In theory... it should have been easy and cheap to replace the tie rod ends < $40 for the parts, as opposed to taking the damn spindle apart to replace the wheel bearings. Plus the inner tie wear leads me to believe the tie rods are the culprit.

As of right now I am more concerned about the tire wear issue than the shaking when braking, just doing one thing at a time.

holmesnmanny

If you visibly can narrow the problem to the wheel bearings then you can just take the hub off the easy way using a puller and won't have to worry about not damaging them since you'll be replacing them.

CBL9

Are you talking about using a slide hammer? As that is not that easy when it is rusted into the spindle, that was a major PITA taking apart, the last time I did it. I did clean everything up with a nice wire wheel and metal brush, so it should come apart easier this time I hope.

holmesnmanny

No, I'm talking about a hub puller.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/1997-accord-brakes-tutorial-1281812/

cd5runner

Rarely if you have the two screws in your rotors, if one of them isn't flush it can make for alot of wobble because the rim isn't sitting flush. Also, maybe you should make sure your guide pins in your calipers are properly lubricated. If they're not then it can keep the caliper from working properly and possibly cause brake wobble.