Rays99accord

Hello I have a 99 Accord with an F23A1 engine. The engine has over 200,000 and has low compression. I was thinking I would replace the engine with a used JDM engine. I bought and installed a used JDM engine in my 4runner and have been very happy with it. The used honda JDM engine is the F23A. Ive done searches and found there are slight differences between the F23A and F23A1. Are the differences only in the exhaust, intake manifolds, and valve cover? If I use the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, valve cover from my old engine on the F23A,will everything connect exactly the same when I put the F23A in? I live in CA Smog **** state so I need everything on the new engine to work/connect up exactly as it did on the old one. I will probably be using the computer/ vtec from the original engine as well. I appreciate any help/info anyone can offer.

Also Id like to know if anyone has any advice on engine removal. I removed and replaced the engine on my 4runner, but that was rear wheel drive and an automatic(my accord is a stick shift by the way). I dont have experience removing engines from any front wheel drives. Im thinking it will be easier to remove the engine and transmission as one piece. I've seen writeups that say the engine has to come out the bottom. That should be interesting since I have a cherry picker and no lift! I do plan on changing the clutch while I have everything out. Thanks in advance for any advice. I'll try to post up how it goes if I do get the JDm engine. Ray

mgzimm08

I actually just finished replacing my f23a1 in my 98 accord manual with a f23a. Before I started I did many searches and there is not very much good info on this swap. Ill try to describe my experience so you and others will know what to expect before starting this swap. This should apply to 98 through 02 accords.

Use your origional :
Intake manifold
Exhaust manifold
Thermostat housing
Coolant crossover tube
Front upper coolant housing for upper radiator hose(jdm faces wrong direction)
Crank pulley(my jdm motor had no power steering pulley)

I highly recomend this swap, I am very happy with the result. There are little things like hoses and clips holding the wiring harness that are different but these should be obvious. My car is currently running great with no check engine light.

Either vtec solenoid will work but you will have to put your pressure switch on the jdm solenoid to use it, that's what I did.
Things that I kept from the jdm motor because they were cleaner than mine, and I assume are the same as usdm:
Distributor...map sensor...egr valve...coolant temp sensor...temp guage sending unit
Knock sensor...oil pressure sending unit... crank position sensor and valve cover

Rays99accord

Nice I will probably pick up an engine today or tommorow. $625 Thanks for the info. I may hit u up if i run into any questions

mgzimm08

I will add more info on motor removal and install later when I get off work. The above is just the important things to know for compatibility.

Rays99accord

Just a quick question. What did u have to remove inside to get the engine harness disconnected. Ive removed the glovebox and panel below the glovebox and i dont think im seeing what im looking for. Thanks Rays

Rays99accord

Got it figured out, The engine Harness runs under the carpet on the floor. you have to pull back the carpet to find it. Pcm is on the floor in the center of the dash. Just case anyone else needs to know

mgzimm08

I did not remove the engine harness from the car. I tucked it aside in the area where the air filter was.

mgzimm08

Also, I pulled my motor out the bottom with just the front on jack stands this is what I did:
Pulled both front tires, axles, front crossmember and transmission.
Radiator, battery tray, all accessories like ac alternator brackets etc.
All mounts obviously, then lowered motor onto ground.
Layed motor with exhaust side down and removed intake.
Then slid out from under the front of the car.
Install was reverse of above^…
I did this all using jackstands and the factory scissor jack. No lift at all.
This was pretty difficult doing it this way but was my only option as my garage is tiny
With no room for an engine lift. I do not reccomend this method but it worked for me.
I just took my time and it all worked out.
Im not sure what that motor weighs.... it was not fun lifting into place alone haha.

If you have any issues or questions ill try to help out.

Kyler Yorke

the distributor you used is it adjustable ? I am currently doing the swap from f23a1 to F23a the engine didn’t come with the distributor so I used the old one from the f23a1 and I noticed it bolts on differently and I having an issue when I give it gas the engine wasn’t to quit an I thought maybe the distributor is different

99stockcivic

This thread was last posted to in 2011, make a new post if you have questions. It's less likely someone in this thread will reply.

MAD_MIKE

True, but we like it when folks use the search function. Even if a thread is old answers can still be given. Just don't expect an inactive member to post.

99stockcivic

OK, first things first then: are you seeing any codes in the computer? Otherwise common issues are
1 - swapped sensors around, as a couple of them can fit in more than one spot
2 - cracked, unplugged, or missing vacuum hoses. Check by pinching some of the hoses at idle (if you can get it to idle) and see if anything changes
3 - loose bolts - literally check every bolt
4 - broken or cracked sensor (could also have dirt/debris/oil in it)
5 - missing ground(s)