SystemKhaos

My heart sunk when I read that......The block is shot isnt it?

Aradin

A new engine will be needed. That one is completely done. Looks like it was neglected/didn't get regular oil changes judging by the color of some of the stuff in the bottom end. Likely caused the bearing to spin and then the rod spit out. Going by that crank journal damage it was knocking for awhile before this happened. Crank is toast, rod obviously toast, piston toast, cylinder wall scored, girdle broke into pieces when the rod went, bottom of the sleeve in that cylinder appears damaged as well. Possibility valves got damaged in the head depending on where the piston was when the rod went. The cost of trying to repair that engine will be way more than it's worth. Time to learn how to swap an engine or scrap the car.

SystemKhaos

Yeah, I bought the car this way. I changed the oil regularly, about once a month because the dark color of it. But I looked close, I didnt see any cyclinder wall scoring. maybe Im just blind lol. But that hole, is that one of the main factors of the block being toast? Also. The car only knocked for like 10 seconds before it happened, before then she was quiet as can be.

SystemKhaos

nvm, I see the scoring, altbeit it very small, something like that would cause compression issues?

2x0

Ouch

Sorry for your luck dude.

SystemKhaos

On the upside, the guy I live next to says he has a JDM motor his son ordered but never put into his car and wants to sell it for me for 100 dollars IF itll fit. Talk about some dumb luck?

Aradin

By the time you got done buying all the parts, having the machine work done, and then paying for labor you would be a couple grand into it easy. You could probably patch the hole in the block and buy a new girdle. Then you're going to have to get a new set of pistons, a new rod, a new crank because yours is beyond repair, have the block bored/honed/decked(IF you can get a machine shop to mess with it), replace any parts in the head that may or may not be faulty, so on and so forth. In the time where you can get a drop in engine from an importer for cheap, it's not even remotely practical to consider trying to make that thing run again. I've blown up enough to know.

SystemKhaos

Yeah like I said, I got a neighbor who wants to sell me a brand new JDM motor for 100 dollars, Im just hoping its one that would fit into my accord.

kb8thekid

Just get that engine from the neighbor and if its a direct fit, put that sucker in there. what engine does the neighbor have?

SystemKhaos

not sure, let me go ask! Wish me luck!

kb8thekid

good luck sir.

SystemKhaos

Well so much for that luck lol. He said his son litterally came by yesterday to pick up the JDM motor and the only other motor he has that he could sell me is a motor from a del sol, would that kind of motor even remotely fit into an accord?

Aradin

No. You need an F/H series. Cheapest option will probably be JDM F23 from an importer. They usually run around $250 for an engine with 40-50k miles. Add another $300-400 worth of parts for the 94-95 Accord EX ecu you need, timing belt/water pump, fluids, IACV adapter, etc and you'll be on the road again in no time.

SystemKhaos

Well I recently put a brand new waterpump, timing belt, and tentionser on this last motor, could I take them off that motor and put them on the new one? Also, could you possibly give me a link where you see this JDM F23 around $250?, Id love to check it out.

Aradin

Timing belt won't interchange. VTEC and non-VTEC F series use different belts. They're all over eBay. Just search JDM F23. I order my engines from a seller called JDMNewYork. Engines are always clean and arrive in great shape. Great customer service too.

SystemKhaos

Fair enough, is there a particular reason you suggest the F23 over the F22? Is there a difference in horsepower? I know i sound ignorant but essentially i want to put something into this car now that has some decent HP and modification potential. Can you give me the lowdown on the F23 vs the F22? Or even like what an H22 could do for me in the performance sector?

Aradin

Because it's a cheap replacement. The cheapest, really. You'll likely have more trouble finding an F22Ax for it and when you do it will likely have more miles. Do some google-fu and check the FAQ here if you want more info on performance swaps.

SystemKhaos

Ok so Ive found this link, 96-97 HONDA ACCORD 2.3L SOHC 4 CYLINDER VTEC REPLACEMENT ENGINE JDM F23A | eBay

It looks to be EXACTLY like my motor in terms of where everything is, although it says its specifically for a 96-97 model accord, could/would it still fit in my 93 without any fabrication? Or do I need to specifically find an F23 for my year accord? Please help! Have to order very soon!

SystemKhaos

Ive found what I think to be a pretty clean H22, with about 45-65k miles on it, its gonna run me about 1k for the motor and 200 for the shipping. Does that price sound right to you guys? Or would I be over/under paying for this motor?

holmesnmanny

That's a decent price. Make sure you buy from a reputable seller.

poorman212

Done blowed up...........Did we come into some cash? The H would be nice but again the F23 will cost less. One thing you need to think about, do you want vtec or not? Remember your 4th gen does not have it so if you get a motor with it - decision point.

1, Convert the motor to not use, look for or need it to run properly. Yes you could just leave the vtec on the motor "un-connected" but the performance of the motor will be lacking.
2. Add the needed "stuff" to run vtec - add more $'s to the build

Again I don't "get out" much so please don't let me "de-rail" this by throwing out a few comments every now and then. "Holmes" has done this swap in his 4th gen so he (and others) will be a faster. better response than I will.....good luck in whatever you decide to do.

SystemKhaos

I was referred to JDMNewYork that sells through ebay. He has a good reputation on ebay itself as well as I was referred by a forum user here. I called him up and for some reason he insisted an H22 would not work in my 93 accord, which from what im hearing from everybody else is that it will work, just gotta add extra modifications. Yes I also plan on having a working Vtec, Ive also heard about people able to tune and alter at what RPM the vtech kicks in at. So I plan on experimenting with that too. Also @ poorman I did come into some money, my mom contacted me outof the blue and sent me quite a bit actually lol.....was kinda shocking tbh.

Aradin

You can use any F22A/B, F23Ax, H22Ax, H23A blue top, H23A1, or F20B with your chassis. There are pros/cons of each. You can make any of them work in your vehicle with the right parts and knowledge. They will all physically bolt into the car, it's just a matter of the wiring and other odds & ends that go with them. All depends on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. I generally recommend an H23A blue top for mild NA applications as they make tons of torque and are really fun out of the box. They make more power than a standard JDM H22 and are cheaper as well. It won't rev quite as high as an H22, and definitely not as high as an F20B, but it's got lots of usable torque which makes for a great daily driver engine.

SystemKhaos

As for what I want to do with this car, just for right now and probably until I either junk the car or sell it off, I want to get to roughly 300WHP at the very end of my build. Nothing too drastic but still pretty fast. Does this sound to be a mild N/A application to you? Would you still recommend the H23A blue top?

Aradin

300whp is not going to be a mild NA build at all. That's going to take a lot of work and money(many thousands). NA builds on 4 cylinders quickly hit diminishing returns. That would be achievable much more conveniently with a small shot nitrous setup or a low boost turbo setup, both of which would be fine for a stock H23A blue top. I think you'll be surprised with how well one does stock though. With bolt-ons they will put down around 210whp without ever being opened. With the right gearing it will put you into the 13s easily on a stock engine. Plenty quick for a basic street car with a basic setup.