LeeMajors19082

Ok so originally I wasn't even gonna do a build log and then I realized that it'd probably be pretty beneficial to do so because this is my first engine build and input/feedback is crucial to a newbie like myself. So 1st and foremost I'm following Ashb82's engine build. If you're not familiar with it here's a link: https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-...ssion-2546957/ I'll be using a F22B2 block and a B1 head for my build, along with Eagle rods and Arias pistons. I'm still not sure what turbo I'll be running as my timeframe has been pushed up do to winter coming and my current motor really being on it's last leg.

Here's a little background: 2yrs ago I bought the car with 165k on the odometer and I had never so much as changed the oil on a car before. It's a 1995 Accord EX 4dr with a 5sp manual. Everything was stock aside from some cheapo lowering springs and some even more cheapo wheels. But she ran good and the price was right. Since then I've swapped out or rebuilt nearly 65% of the car. The list is long and my time is short so we'll save it for another time. Plus pics are cooler anyway.

This is what I started with...




Dents....





typical Honda rust.... these wonderful cheapy wheels....





and this lovely paint.

So needless to say I started with the outside...



First I had to deal with the rust.





Then I used this as the foundation for my custom Mugen-type grille.








Amazing what you can do with a little fiberglass and tiger-hair...





That works...





and finished.





Now prep for paint....





masking....





wing delete...





trim shave....





and a couple coats of Satin Black later....





and we're in there!





Nowhere near where I want her to be but it'll work for the time being.

I still wanna get rid of the "H" light tails and the halos and get OEMs, and also I'd like to move up to, at least, a 17x9 wheel so I can put on a Stillen kit with 96/97 bumper, which I've been sitting on forever. But anyway now let's move onto the mechanical changes. Most things I don't have pics of but here's a few:



We all know these...








I did a full 2.5in stainless exhaust. Hacked the flanges off the resonator and welded them onto this giant Magnaflow cat.








Also hacked off the fart can and welded up a DC sport muffler to go with the header and downpipe.

Around this point I really start getting the "BUG" and I want power. So I really start looking at what my options are. Around this time my wife was pregnant, so my budget was minimal at best, and a turbo setup was looking like the only option. I really had no intention of building the bottom end; I was going to just boost the stock bottom end and see how it worked out. But as I began reading more and more I came across Ashb82's build log and it just so happened that a fellow member was selling the same type piston/rod combo that was being utilized so I hopped on it, which led me to where I'm at now. Go figure? So once I signed up for a full blown build I need a motor to work with because this cars my DD and I couldn't do downtime. And this is what I got:



F22B2 that spent some time in the elements for $40





When I bought it I couldn't turn the crank so I knew I was in for some work.





But I wasn't sure if it was the bottom end or the top?...





Because the valves, on the exhaust side, were visibly shot...





so I dumped some brake fluid into the ports and directly into the cylinders. And after about a 48hr soak I was able to crank it around!

That's all I got for tonight... it's getting late. I'll try to get up to date tomorrow. Thx for checking this out.

LeeMajors19082

Okay so I finally got it loosened up and this is what she looked like inside:



Ugh! Gorgeous right?...





rust...





rust...





and more....





RUST!

At this point I'm thinking I just lost 40 bucks, no biggie. But then I remembered that the block needed to be overbored for this build so maybe I could get past the pitting in the cylinders? So off to my machinist to see what he had to say. And around that time some packages arrived.






So pretty...








H22 rods from Eagle. Not the BEST on the market but certainly better than OEM and....





surely not the worst.

My machinist says, "It's a go" and that with a half mil overbore we should be good so I left it there and waited for a phone call (Which took FOREVER). And about idk 3-4mos later?... It finally came. Now all I had him do was the overbore, hone, hot tank, and ring gaps. Money was tight and I don't have access to those types of tools, but plz believe if I did, I would've done it ALL myself. I didn't have the head worked at all because it's pretty much scrap. But I did keep it and that's an ongoing project in my garage. But I won't be using it for this build, instead I'll be using my current head off the stock B1 which is in the car currently. Also I didn't have the block shaved/decked because... well it just didn't need it! It was dead nuts straight! No warpage and completely within specs, so why spend the money right? Anyway, for whatever reason, when I got it back I didn't have the foresight to take any pics of the bores and immediately began cleaning it so here's what I got:



This was straight from the machinist.





Cleaning main threads and oil holes.





Looking good








Had to remove the oil plug and clean this out for the B1 head.





Cleaning the oil holes in the crank...





figuring out the stock bearing line up on the crank...





and on the block.

At this point it was time to order bearings. What fkn debacle that became. So apparently NOBODY makes a high-end, coated or non-coated, race type MAIN bearing for the H/F series engines. Wait let me clarify... Nobody makes them for H22A1 or F22 engines, ie. 2.2l 2156cc 4cyl Honda motors. So I first made the mistake of purchasing ACL bearings, which upon arrival I came to find were no longer manufactured in Tasmania (More info on that in another thread). Which of course I couldn't return so they got shlt canned. Then it came down to Clevite or Kings and in my opinion Clevite made the better MAIN bearings and I wanted to keep the same brand throughout so I wound up purchasing Clevite rod bearings also. Then of course ARP head studs and I went with a Fel-Pro MLS head-gasket. And a Mizumo gasket/seal kit for the B1. But I'll have to piece a few gaskets out because I'll be running a F23A1 IM which I still need to port match, etc... So back to waiting on a package:



YEY! My bearings came!....





What's this?... Made in China?!





Garbino!!!





Ahhh.... Much better.

Alright so the goods came in and I began checking clearances with Plastigauge but again I neglected to take any pics so here's what I came up with...
Mains
1) .038mm
2) .038mm
3) .038mm
4) .025mm
5) .025mm
Rods
1) .025mm
2) .025mm
3) .025mm
4) .025mm
All within spec so I'm happy with that and ready to start the assembly. Oh and I'm not sure if I mentioned this but I'm getting all of my info from hours and hours of reading, researching, and finally finding and DL'ing a CD7/CD9 Honda Service manual (for free) which has been extremely informative to say the least. And just a side note to any and everyone out there that's ever thought that they may have over paid a mechanic or service tech for work done on their vehicle.... If you can fkn read, and turn a wrench, YOU CAN DO THIS TOO! And the way I came to this realization and decided I would NEVER pay for my vehicle to be "serviced" or repaired again was, when I first bought the car I had some work done on it at a VERY reputable local tuning shop (who's name I won't mention), they've been in all the tuning mags, etc. they do good work and they know their stuff. BUT while talking extensively with the founder/owner and his partners I came to find out that not 1 of them, nor their employees, had ever been formally trained!? None of them! No schooling whatsoever... Except one, the one guy had taken a SINGLE class on Tuning with a specific type of software or something like that? But that was it! And we all know that you have to pay for dyno time anyway, that is of course unless you happen to have one in your backyard or something, which I doubt, so you have to PAY for a tune anyway. Aside from that and things like machining.... I'll never do it again. Having other ppl do work for you is a luxury, and it's a luxury that I simply can't afford. SOOoooo, back to my service manual... All the oil clearances are within spec and I decided to start the assembly. So far all I've done is the pistons, rings, rods, crank, bearings, and rear main seal/right side plate. Oh and I didn't have Hondabond so I went with The Right Stuff (grey) instead.



Pistons and rods are in...








Main bearings, crank, rod bearings, and rod caps...





all torqued down to ARP specs.





A closer look at cylinder #3...





and #2.





Main bearings, caps, and girdle all torqued down to factory specs.





Overhead of cylinders 1 and 4...





close-up of #1...





and #4.





An overhead of all four cylinders with the pistons at half mast.





And here's a shot of the right side plate with the new rear main all buttoned up.

Now, this is basically where I'm at currently. I was going to reinstall the balance shafts along with the oil pump but when I got to checking the rotors and housing the wound up being right outside of the service limit:



Oil pump housing with rear balance shaft....





and a close-up of the pump rotors (inner/outer) which were out of spec.
It was actually looking good until I checked the clearance between the outer rotor and the housing... FAIL. So I began looking to replace the rotors (per the service manual) and of course Honda discontinued them, forcing everyone to buy the entire assembly for right around $200 that I don't have. The rotors btw run you right around 15 bucks a peice. Luckily I was able to find an online distributor that still had some new parts in his OLD stock and I'm pretty sure I can get the rotors if need be. The hard part was finding the part number which I had to get from an older NON-Vtec F22a1 diagram. All the pumps on the F blocks are the same part number so the rotors should be the same also. I know some folks think there's a difference between the Vtec and non-Vtec oil pumps but from what I can tell that's not the case with the f-series. And if there is a difference it won't be in the housing or rotors, it will be a washer applied to the relief spring. Anyway, the only reason i haven't ordered the part yet is because during the time I was thinking I could no longer buy one, I figured I'd just use, or mix and match parts from, the pump on my current motor, until I have one that's within the service limits. I already plan to use the head, most if not all of the sensors, the water pump and timing belts (which were recently replaced) along with all of the accessories, so why not use that too!? If ain't broke... right? So yea fellas that's where I'm at today. I still need a cheap yet functional turbo, intercooler, manifold, wastegate, BOV, injectors, and an ECU! All of which I'm really not sure I'll be able to afford before the current motor dies on me? But I'm keeping my fingers crossed

SidewaysSkinny

Just out of curiosity, what did you use to lube the main journal bearings and rod bearings?

Best of luck on your build. I just picked up a 97 Wagon lx 5sp, and I'm planning on either a swap, or a turbo build, but not really sure which one yet. I'd be interested to know how much your turbo build costs in the end.

gianinline

Great, building an engine shows you care.

LeeMajors19082

I actually used the Permatex assembly lube, I believe it's called Ultra Slick. And I'm curious to see my end costs too! lol! But seriously, my wife and I have a 3yr old son, so I'm trying to keep expenditures on the build to a minimum if/when possible. So, without cutting any corners, I am definitely planning to do this as frugally as possible. And thx for the reply bro.

Thanks for the reply bro! And if you ask my wife "care" is an understatement! According to, her my priority list goes something like this:
#1) CAR
#2) SON
#3) HER
LMAO! For real though I've just never understood the the whole "WHEN my motor blows-up" mentality!? It fkn baffles me... Stupidest shlt I've ever seen/heard in my life! But hey, to each his own. I personally wanna do it right and do it once. And learn as much as I can in the process... Especially IF it were to fail! Cause I'll be damned if I'm gonna fk it up twice!

LeeMajors19082

Okay so I've completely neglected this thread for AWHILE and for that I am sorry. I'm doing the same build log over on HS' website because they seem to have a tremendous amount of 5th gen Accord guys that are much more active than here on H-T. But I know not everyone uses both and there's such an insane abundance of knowledge over HERE that I simply can't allow myself to become disconnected. So... I think what I'll do is just C&P any old updates and bring everyone up to speed on where I'm at and my current situation. So here we go!

LeeMajors19082

(This Update was from back on Oct. 14th 2015)

Just a quick update... It's been a shlt week for me. Was stressing about a bit of rust I found in cylinder #2 got a few different opinions and finally wound up just taking it down to my machinist who seems to think that because of where it's located, and the size of it, that it'll be a NON-issue. But the true test will be once it's in the car sooooo.... We'll see!?

Anyway... All I managed to do this week was a ish-load of research on tuning options and header/exhaust manifold runners. AND I was inspired by a fellow member, with an insanely clean engine bay (Iakona), to paint my block, which I really hadn't planned on doing. But I'm SO glad I did. Not only does it look a 100% better, but it's also how I came across the little pit of rust. So... enough talk, how bout some pics?


Masking everything off...


Cont...

A little trick, all of you probably know already? But for those who don't: when you're masking off a surface that you don't want to damage (like an engine block), and it has a sharp edge to it, use that to your advantage. Rather than trying to cut around/along the edge, let the edge do the cutting for you! Like so:


Here you can see I'm using the round edge of the razor to apply pressure to the tape, along the edge of the surface I'm trying to mask out..



And voila!



I used the same technique on the deck and basically every surface I could... makes for some very clean masking lines. Here it is after a few coats:




And here's the lovely PIT I found... it's the tiny speck directly to the right of the pencil, which btw is there for a point of reference. I figured EVERYONE knows how big a standard #2 pencil is... But I'm sure someone will shock me? Lol! Anyway, here it is...


Close-up...


And from here it's so small you really can't see it, even with a 14MP camera.


Well.. that's all I got for this week. Thx for chkn it out.

LeeMajors19082

(This Update was originally posted on Oct. 19th 2015)

Minor update... Worked on the F23a1 IM a bit over the weekend. It was a MESS, to say the least. I forgot to get pics of the initial opening and the upper plenum, but if the lower plenum is any indication of how bad it was then I'm quite sure you can imagine what it looked like (plz imagine the worst). So here are some pics of before and after. There's still a bit more cleaning to do, and then some deburring, mild porting (I wanna get rid of the huge casting lines), and of course port matching the TB/upper plenum and runners/head. I'll do my best to document the journey.
Here's how she started when I pulled off the upper plenum:



And after some significant elbow grease, mineral spirits, and Brakleen...



Here's one of those casting lines I spoke of.....


EGR ports still need more work. The rectangular one runs just about the entire length of the runners and is a PITA to get in to. This is after 30mins with a rifle brush and the entire gamut of chemicals/cleaners I had available to me. It was SO gunked up in there that it may very well have been blocked off completely!?


Upper Plenum...



And last but not least, I got my Moates Demon v1 on the way! I picked it up dirt cheap. And I plan on using that to run Neptune RTP (per strong recommendation from BoostedCD5 and a ton of research, good reviews, ect..) on a P28 ECU. I'm hoping to have the motor in and running (w/o Boost) by Thanksgiving and the turbo setup pieced together and any engine quirks sorted out by the New year.

LeeMajors19082

(Up to Date)

I haven't updated this in awhile but that's because between my wild-ass3-yr-old-son, work, and my lovely wife; there hasn't been much time for the car!? I've basically just been doing little odds and ends here and there in my spare time and collecting parts. So I guess I'll start where I left off, with the F23 IM. I haven't done any porting/deburring nor have I had the chance to port-match it to my B1 head, as it's still in daily use. But I was at least able to finish cleaning it up and get it painted. I also picked up a Moates Demon for ultra-cheap. And just this week finally decided to pull the trigger on a Neptune license so my tuning software is in order. On that note, rather than spend $100+ on a P28 I scooped up a P06 from the local U-Pull-It for $20, got a Vtec conversion + ECU chip kits, and resoldered the board into P28 5sp manual specs, ALL of which cost me just under $60 if you include the cost of shipping the little kits. Next is the oil pump. Originally I was going to use the F22B2 pump but it's rotors wound up being out of spec, and you can no longer order them from Honda!? So I grabbed an OEM pump off of a F23Ax which was in great shape and started sealing it off for balance shaft removal (the cheap way) but that's a whole other thread. Then I picked up a VERY lightly used ACT flywheel which was sold under a false part number and rather then go through the hassle of trying to get my money back from the seller I'm just going to resell it under the correct part number as it's still an awesome piece, it just won't fit my needs and is better suited for an N/A build. I also decided to build an ultra-ghetto short shifter which I only took pics of in the mock-up stage, prior to welding. But I do have to say it's kick *** and now that it's broken in it shifts flawlessly and best of all FAST. It was surely worth the work especially if you have access to a welder. You gentlemen will also be glad to hear that I've FINALLY gotten some new headlights also. I decided to purchase the Vision brand OEM knock-offs after GuidoInaSpeedo (Thank you btw) sent me some pics of their fitment, which I found to be pretty decent. And I have to say, after receiving them, that the build quality isn't bad at all. I'll get pics up as soon as they're installed. And finally last but not least I grabbed a monster custom (T04S Spec) Turbonetics 60-1, which is actually like 10% Turbonetics and 90% AiResearch/Garrett, and a cast manifold! So I still need injectors, fuel pump, intercooler+piping, BOV, and a nice wastegate. But the engine itself will definitely be in the car before X-mas. And if all goes well we'll be seeing boost by Feb? Anyway, thanks for checking this out. Now here comes some pics:




































Ok so on a side note I sold the monster turbo lastnight! Made a few hundred off it too, so I'm glad I did it. But now I'm in search of a turbo.. AGAIN! So if yall could help me out with some suggestions that would be great!? I want something in the 3-350whp range with as little lag as possible. I was considering the Holset angle like Ashb82's setup, which of course is who's build I followed? Idk tho? I want to weigh all options...And I would consider sacrificing some HP (No less than 300hp tho) for a quicker spool so any ideas, thoughts, opinions, etc..etc... are welcome! Thx in advance fellas

GhostAccord

Nice build, love your attention to detail.

Keep up the good work

LeeMajors19082

Thanks brother! I appreciate the compliment.

ferio-ichi3

Very nice man!

LeeMajors19082

Thanks man!

Anybody have any thoughts on how a 18G might perform on this setup? Like, would it spool up nicely or be a dog like the T4 60-1 would've been?

LeeMajors19082

Real brief update on the oil pump and some injectors I scooped up. First will be the injectors I really didn't know how to tell if they were good or bad but I know they retail for a good bit more then what I paid so I was a bit apprehensive to say the least but I grabbed them anyway and hopefully yall can tell me if I made the right choice (pics to follow)? And as for the oil pump well you guys know I went with the F23A pump and I did the cheapo balance shaft delete so I just wanted to point out a few differences in the F22A/B's pump vs the F23's because one of them caught me off guard while following the DIY BS delete. Also got the BWR adapter for the F23 IM. And the Vision headlights. So here come the pics...

First the DSM 850cc injectors (which I just realized DON'T seem to fit my IM?!)






Adapter plate


Vision HL's



And oil pumps... so first is the F22A/B and right after that will be the same portion but on the F23A pump. It's the location of the rear balance shaft and on the F22's it has a removable press-fit bearing that once removed leaves a hole the size of a 1in freeze plug BUT the F23's pump DOES NOT. The bearing is actually PART OF the housing itself!? It's literally built into the oil pump, so in order to do the DIY BS delete using the F23A oil pump you must find a 21mm freeze plug (Not that easy btw) in order to block off that hole. Or of course, if you have the resources to do so, you could just mill out a piece of steel or aluminum to fit over that entire section like the KS BS delete kit does... I don't have those resources. Ok so just to reiterate 1st F22A/B (with bearing removed), 2nd F23A (same portion as F22), 3rd F23A (close up)...



Now these are the F23A pump all tapped, plugged and sealed and ready to go on the motor.






And finally, How far are you willing to go to avoid tapping your block (after it's been assembled)? Lol!


If you think that's nuts, wait till yall see how I'm keeping the rear BS in there!

LeeMajors19082

Oh and I'm still trying to decide on a good street turbo? Anybody? 16G? Hx35? 50 or 57 trim Garrett? Suggestions? Quickest spool in the 300-350HP range... That's what I'm looking for.

And can anyone verify for me if those injectors should fit? They're for a DSM Eclipse/Talon 4g63 but when I put them in my IM they were really loose? Am I missing something? Thx in advance.

LeeMajors19082

I know it's been a LONG time since I've updated this but a LOT has happened since my last update and... well tbh; I can show you better then I can tell you:





Cheap cast iron log needed some serious adjustments








Much better
































Mock up





Parts...parts...parts... and more parts!




















































Okay so that's all I've got right now but there's LOTS more. The engines fully assembled and back in the car already, I just need to upload the rest of the pics so bare with me. This build has been 3yrs in the making and it's FINALLY come to fruition and I'm still just taking it all in. Once I get the basemaps from my tuner I'll probably make video of the initial start-up and upload that also. Anyway I hope that satiated some thirst, and I'll have more updates VERY soon! Thanks for looking yall!

LeeMajors19082

and here comes the rest....(btw, sorry for the pic sizes but it's hard enough UL'ing them all let alone resizing them. If HT didn't offer the "Drag & Drop" method I'd never UL any pics at all.)





Coming together now...

















-10an hose for the oil return and the valve cover/crankcase ventilation coming soon





some light gasket matching...





and some more of the same.





Timing belt ON














I LOVE the look of those FIC injectors!





Lower cover on and I think I'm going to leave the upper cover off at least until I get all the CAM timing sorted out....





Plus that CAM gear just looks GREAT. (If only it were anodized BLUE like the injectors!? I guess I can't have everything?) I paid next to nothing for it so I had to take what I could get. Keep in mind this WAS built on a TIGHT budget.





I can't get enough of that...





and that VALVE COVER tho! lol!





I didn't take pics but I might later?... I found some VERY small hairline cracks (if you even want to call them that?) in the surface of the OEM flywheel, which I just had resurfaced like a little over a year ago, so I was forced to pick up a new flywheel to add to this.





I was impressed by the overall build quality of the ACT disc and pressure plate....





BUT (and this is a big BUT) I was also a little surprised to see the paint chipping off of the PP before it even saw it's first engagement!? And there was a small (maybe quarter the size of my pinky nail?) but still noticeable chip on the edge of the clutch disc itself!? (No pic) So yea I was a little bummed about that but overall good solid stuff from ACT. I'm sure neither thing will affect performance/functionality at all.





This coolant bypass port goes up to the IACV (for no reason btw)....





here.... and then immediately transitions over to the FITV in the next pic. So I capped it off back at the coolant pipe above^^^.





The later models did away with this FITV as did the aftermarket mfgr of throttle bodies for these engines, so there was nowhere to route that coolant hose anyway!? Needless to say; I deleted it!





I have no idea what this thing is...





but after a brief discussion with Wagnasty (who btw I COULD NOT HAVE DONE THIS BUILD WITHOUT. You are a GOD sir.) I decided to delete it and cap off the vacuum lines, along with the EGR and CruiseControl.





In with the new! Good times doing this solo too... I recommend it to everyone.<br/><br/><br/>Everyone I HATE that is.





The Eagle has landed! But there's still much work to be done. More pics to come soon!





A few cheapy nylon couplings I needed for the charge pipes

Senorsquez23

Holy cow man this is an awesome build. It's funny though no one has said much about it. I myself have looked at Ashb82 build and JWicecold as well. After much thought I wanted to start a build as well and got some flack from guys on here about even the thought of messing with the f22b1. I have a 94 ex and is in fair to ruff shake as well and it's my DD strictly for work (nice truck sits at home). That being said I picked up another f22B1 engine for $100 and used some parts I needed to repair the already running car. So like you I now have an extra engine sitting in the garage. I'll definitely be looking into the build closer now. The only difference was I wasn't planning on boosting, not sure if it matters or not. Thanks.

GhostAccord

Same amount of effort goes into building an N/A engine block as a boosted one. They use slightly different parts. The bigger difference is in the top end, cylinder head, valve train, intake manifold, header and exhaust requires a bit more research to get everything working as one cohesive unit in an all motor build.

LeeMajors19082

Thank you for the compliment bro, it's been a long road getting here though. And it was definitely guys like GhostAccord, Twkdcd5, Extralargenog, JWice, Ashb82, Andryzzle, (the list goes on) that led me to believe, not only in the F-series potential, but the CD5 chassis as a foundation for a kick *** build! So really all the credit has to go to those who did it before me especially Ashb82 because, as far as I know, he was the 1st to use the off-the-shelf forged pistons for the Evo/Eclipse in the F-series motor as a slightly cheaper alternative to custom pistons, because as we all know Honda F's seem to be the red-headed-step-child of their engine lineage. The irony there though is the K-series are the equivalent of a "G-series" frankenstein build with a timing chain! (I'm sure I'll get flamed for that) Just bringing back the iron sleeves tells me Honda realized they were doing something right when they made the F-series. Anyway, yea man it was definitely those before me that gave me the faith and motivation. Plus, if these civic guys are building D's who the hell can tell me an F isn't worth building!? That's just absurd... meh...
Anywho, I'm actually on my way out to the garage now to mount the FMIC, BOV, charge pipes, and try to get the exhaust all welded up, or at least the downpipe cause the welder I'm using is borrowed and my buddy needs it back STAT. I'm still waiting on a basemap from my tuner and I still need to hook-up all the gauges, the wideband, the MAP sensor, MAC solenoid, and fuel pump. AND I'm still trying to decide on which oil to use for the break-in? Especially since I'm running a used turbo and I'm not breaking the motor in separate from the boost set-up, I'm doing it all fully assembled. I'm just praying it all works This is my first build... 3yrs ago, when I bought this car, was my 1st oil change

Senorsquez23

Well I can't wait to see more pics of it done. I'll definitely have to bug you then when it comes to my build. Where I live I'm not sure there's much around here as far as tuner shops so all my purchases and I'm sure yours as well will be online. That's mainly where I start asking questions. Like who's got what. What's your plans for the inside?

LeeMajors19082

Well I'll tell you what shopping online is the way to go anyway imo. And I can definitely help point you in the right direction in terms of good ebay sellers, and guys here, and on Honda society that are legit sellers and can also help out with build questions etc... like guys who know their shlt and guys that just talk shlt (cause there's a LOT of them). And as for tuners maaaannnn I can relate! Mine's over an hour away and the one I found before that was like 2hrs away! But with that said even this guy is beginning to give me the vibe that maybe he's flakin on me because he was supposed to have my basemap ready on Saturday and now it's fkn Wednesday!? Anyway, i don't want to get into all that. My plan is actually to try and help the F-series community a little bit and make sure to post my basemap AND tune on pgmfi.org and on/in Neptune's database because there simply aren't enough resources out there for F-series guys that want to do a build themselves!? The closest thing I could find thus far in terms of a basemap was a file for a F22Ax non-Vtec motor and tbh I simply don't know enough about a/f ratios and tuning to just try jumping in there and making the necessary adjustments to make it work with my setup. Cause believe me bro if I could avoid paying someone to touch my car in ANY way I would.

Now for my interior I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing there yet but I am sure that a LOT needs to be done? Originally I was planning to do a fully custom re-wrap of everything and re-carpet but I just don't know if I want to go that far anymore? I already have a pretty major stereo install and I'm in the process of doing a custom fiberglass rear deck to accommodate the the speaker mounts and the port from my sub enclosure (I have a "pony-wall" or "trunk-wall") which is directly behind the rear seats. I never included any of my car audio build into my build log because well.....? This is Honda-Tech right? lol! I think I was planning to add it into my HS build log but never did it there either? Idk, I guess I just never thought anyone would be into that? There seems to be a fine line between Car-guys and Car Audio-guys. And in truth it really isn't something that's pertinent to this build log. This is about taking an incredibly gorgeous, dependable daily driver and making it a little bit more fun to drive, at a reasonable cost. Which by the way wound up NOT being as reasonable as I had initially envisioned You know the whole cliche: Fast, Reliable, Cheap... pick two. Well that ish is 1000% true! Now don't get me wrong, I did it as "cheaply" as possible, but if you ask my wife, she'll tell you I've refinanced our mortgage to fund this damn build! Anyway, I'm rambling, and I have an exhaust to weld up so I need to get out to the garage before daylight. So yea man, anytime, anything I can do to help, just let me know brother.

Senorsquez23

I only asked about interior sine I'm planning on going from the baby **** greenl/blue Honda color to black or even cement gray paint. Possibly looking at a 2 tone interior of black and gray. I think I'm going to start my grocery list and begin the buying process. Money isn't a problem but like you I want to be frugal when I can. I'm excite to say the least since I can park when need be to work on it. For now I'll concentrate on ripping the spare motor drown and start cleaning and finding any problems. One upper hand I have is my uncle builds race cars so I think that will help when it comes to tolerances and those tiny numbers. That and all the machine work.

LeeMajors19082

Yea man having someone in the family that's familiar with engine tolerances and machine work will be a HUGE plus! And I'm willing to bet you won't be finding too many issues in that motor. If it was burning oil; likely culprits are valve stem seals or rings. If it was leaking oil; distributor seals or rear main. Other than that (in my experience) F-series = Bulletproof.

LeeMajors19082

Ok gentlemen (and maybe some ladies?).... after quite a few minor hiccups and bumps in the road, she's officially up and RUNNING!!! First was a main coolant pipe leak, then a minor oil leak from the sandwich adapter, and then a few grounding issues all of which have since been sorted out. I'm scheduled for the dyno next Wednesday but I don't think I'm gonna make it because the turbo seems to be leaking oil now? Which is quite odd as there's no smoke from the tailpipe? I think it may be "blow-by" because I've got pretty high oil pressure, but I'm unsure? So I ordered a rebuild kit just in case. All issues aside though the engine itself is running like a horny spider monkey on adderall!!! So for that I'm stoked! As soon as I get this turbo issue sorted I'll try to get some vids up. Oh! And the clutch.... O-M-F-G!!! BEAST MODE!!! I can't describe how awesome this clutch is and I would recommend it to ANY and EVERY one doing a mid-power-range build such as myself!