stretchd1

91 Accord Ex.........how do you remove the inner tie-rod sockets from the steering gear (rack & pinion) assembly? the outer tie rods are already removed.... any tips would help as I dont want to buy a new rack right now...thanks

-b-

johnlear

It's a bit of a pain to do, but 'doable' if you have reasonable mechanical ability.

First off look at the new 'rack-ends' (that's what they're called, at least here in Australia), and you'll see that each rack-end comes with a washer. Now peel back the rubber boots (it's easier if you take them right off, which you might as well do now since you'll have to take the tie-rod ends off the old rack-ends anyway, which you should do first up).

When you're ready to pull off the rubber boots, note that each boot is attached to the other boot via a small diameter rubber tube that passes above the rack housing. This tube needs to be detached from each boot before you attempt to take either boot off. The tube fits onto a small plastic spigot that fits into a hole in each boot, don't lose these spigots. The purpose of the tube is to allow air to pass from side to side as one boot contacts anf the other expands as you steer. Access to this tube (at least on one side) is less than good.

Looking at the exposed old rack-ends you'll see that the washers fit between the end of the rack shaft and the rack-end. You'll also see (if you look carefully) that the washer extends past the outer edge of the 'ball joint' in the rack-end, and will be folded flat against one of the the flat sides of the rack-end. You need to pry this folded part of the washer away from the rack-end in order to be able to undo the rack-end from the rack shaft (the washer won't rotate as it's keyed to the rack shaft). This fold is to prevent the rack-end from undoing should it ever become loose.

The washer has a tab that fits into a slot in the rack shaft thus locking the washer to the rack shaft and preventing it from rotating. After you've installed the new rack-end you'll need to bend the new washer against the side of the rack-end, so pay attention to how it's installed before you pry the old washer away.

Now you're ready to undo the rack-end. It's easier if you turn the steering all the way to one side to extend the end of the rack shaft as near to you as possible as you undo the rack-end. There is a hex on the rack-end to which you can fit an open ended spanner (wrench), and on the rack shaft there are two 'flats' to which you can also fit an open ended spanner. Make sure you use the correct sized spanners, not ones that are 'near enough'.

Holding the rack shaft with a spanner so it can't rotate, undo the rack-end with the other spanner. Don't be tempted to use the rotational resistance of the rack shaft to assist in undoing the rack-end, you might damage the rack or the pinion or more likely the mechanism that adjusts rack to pinion pre-load / clearance. Use one spanner against the other.

The rack-end will be quite tight (or it should be), and it can be a bit awkward to get the spanner onto the rack shaft and to a lesser degree the rack-end (maybe, can't remember). It can then be awkward to actually swing the spanner due to other things being in the way, but it can be done. The rack end undoes anti-clockwise.

Now fit the new washer with the tab fitted into the slot in the rack shaft, and then screw down the new rack end (after applying a small amount of grease to the threads and under the head of the 'ball joint' where it will contact the washer). Tighten the rack end with the spanners as tight as you can manage (don't apply rotational force to the rack itself, hold it with the spanner). Now fold the washer against the side of the rack end to lock it in place ('multi-grip' type pliers are good for folding the washer). Refit the boot, not forgetting the small rubber tube between the two boots.

Now fit the rod-ends to the rack-ends and then the rod-ends to the steering arms and you're ready for an alignment. Just so the alignment will be close to correct, when you take the rod-ends off the old rack-ends count the number of turns before they come off, and refit to the new rack-ends using the same number of turns. This means the toe won't be wildly off, but alignment asap is necessary.

Tips; Clean everting up as much as you can before you start work to help keep crap out of the rack etc. You can be guaranteed that that clump of dirt that's been stuck up there somwhere on the chassis for months will decide to fall onto the rack while you're working on it. To prevent crap falling from above onto / into the rack and housing, cover everything as far as possible with rag while you're working on things.

stretchd1

cool thanks I finally got them....when i first read your post I was like there is no way in hell Im gonna be able to do this but picking up the rack i finally caught on to what you were saying to do.....good write up bro thanks again


-b-

hondadude

"good write up"
My hairy butt.

That is a top of the line, class A, super write up.
Double for johnlear.

johnlear

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"good write up"
My hairy butt.

That is a top of the line, class A, super write up.
Double for johnlear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for that. I thought it needed a bit more editing for better clarity, but I was over it by then!

You have a hairy butt? Too much information!