TouringAccord

yes, otherwise the alignment marks on the gears mean nothing.

nwf_snake

Great write up, thanks! I just finished the F22B2 in my son's Accord. A couple comments.
If you have AC, I recommend disconnecting the compressor and laying it on the front rail, after you remove the alternator. This makes it MUCH easier to install the lower timing cover. The way I installed the lower cover is from the front, rotated 90 degrees clockwise until it was in position, then rotating 90 degrees counter clockwise. I also suggest removing the alternator and PS brackets, it makes it much easier to align the lower timing cover and and helps keep the seal on that side from coming off during installation. As someone else mentioned, it does help to remove the side motor mount boss from the engine. You can see the adjustment gear a whole lot better and can get to the water pump easier. Also, for the timing belt tension adjustment, before you install the balance belt, I found no reason to reinstall the lower timing cover. You just take it back off again to do the balance belt anyway. Again, thanks for all your time in posting this!

TouringAccord

it sounds like thats a lot of work to make putting the lower cover back in easier. But thank you for letting us know the way you found, I'm sure it will help some people

I know it was a bit difficult at first but I know we found a way without removing anything extra and it wasn't bad at all. I wish I would have documented how we didn't but I didn't think too at the time.

nwf_snake

Not really a lot of work, just three bolts on the PS bracket, 3 on the alternator, and four bolts to unhook the compressor from its bracket. Less than 5 minutes off and 5 minutes on!
Compared to trying to get that rear lower timing cover bolt in place and tightened, a piece of cake!

TouringAccord

like I said, sounded like a lot. it's been a while since I've done this so all the surrounding parts aren't fresh in my mind. thanks again for sharing an easier way that you found

raj49

I just did my 98 F23A1. I have a slight high pitched noise. No vibration and engine runs fine. I replaced the Timing belt with an Autozone Duralast belt and water pump with aftermarket. I wonder if this is the cause. I ran it for about 5 minutes. I guess I'll run it little longer later to see if it stops.

alsameer

Need a help...
I got my 2001 Accord V6 back after its timing belt change today. Normally if the battery is disconnected my stereo will ask for a code on reconnecting. But today when I switch on the car after the service it didn't asked for the code! That means the battery is not disconnected while doing the timing belt change.
Is it possible to do the belt and water pump change without disconnecting battery? I paid $600 for this at a local shop. Now I am afraid that he cheated me. How can I ask for proof for the belt changes? He already gave a timing belt to me saying that he removed it from my car. But how can I make sure that it is from my car???

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

thanks TouringAccord!

TouringAccord

you're welcome

professorman

I am about to change my timing belt for the second time pretty soon, so I am looking on what parts I need now. I have ~185k miles on my car now.

I think I already added a Front Balance Shaft Retainer Kit from my first belt change. Do I need to get another one? I know this was a upgraded part because it was a defective design, and this fixed the defect.

The first time, I did not change my tensioners.
What is the purpose of changing the following?
1) Timing belt adjuster (tensioner)
2) Timing Balancer belt adjuster (tensioner)
3) Timing Belt Adjuster Spring
4) Timing Balancer Belt Adjuster Spring

I think you should edit your first post to include the seals that need to be replaced as well. The seals I replaced the last time are:
-Cam Seal
-Balance seal
-crank seal

Am I missing any seals that should be replaced with the timing belt change? I see someone spoke about oil pump gear housing seal and timing cover seals. I also see rear balance shaft housing o-ring. What's the deal with these seals?

I noticed that the original tread only had the part numbers for the F22B1 (EX Accord). Here are the part numbers for the F22B2, LX (non-vtec Accord):
TIMING BELT 14400-PT0-004
BALANCE BELT 13405-PT0-004
CAM SEAL 91213-PT0-003
BALANCE SEAL 91233-PT0-003
CRANK SEAL 91212-P0A-004
WATER PUMP 19200-P0A-003
P.S BELT 56992-P0A-J01
A/C BELT 38920-P0A-J02

EDIT: Here's a great list I found https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...t+timing+seals

TouringAccord

you shouldn't have to get a new one. just inspect the one on the engine now when you take it apart and if it needs to be replaced then get a replacement but I don't think you'll need to.

the tensioners are there to keep the belts running smoothly. if they go bad the belt will lose tension, jump of the pulleys and give you problems.

the springs are there to set the proper tension of the belts.

Thanks, I will edit the first post with the F22B2 part numbers and the seal part numbers.

AcCO12D95

I recently had all my belts changed along with the water pump changed. I'm having some noise between 1-2k rpm kind of sounds like its moaning/whining. I've read that it could be that the timing belt that is too tight. Now would it be necessary for me to take apart everything?

Or can I proceed with the following steps: remove the valve cover, top timing belt cover, and loosen the adjusting nut sticking out of the bottom cover and turn the cam 3-teeth counter-clockwise and re-tighten?

Just want to make sure, before I screw something up. Thanks!

waciii

Why would you remove the valve cover and top timing belt cover? You can retension with all covers in place.

AcCO12D95

From what I get on the instructions it says to rotate the cam gear counter-clockwise 3 teeth from TDC. How would you rotate it 3 teeth with the cover on? Please explain. Thanks!

billyrusa

You need to rotate the crankshaft 5-6 revolutions countclockwise and set the No. 1 piston at TDC before loosing the adjusting nut.

waciii

Ah good point. The 3-teeth isn't any hard and fast rule though. Basically it doesn't really matter as long as you can feel good tension on the crankshaft as you tighten back the adjusting nut.

Kaila

Yup, thanks! I put a new seal in and the leak is gone.

TouringAccord

when you rotate the crankshaft 3 teeth on the cam gear it's hard to tell a difference in the tension you are feeling and what is the correct tension. just stick with the 3 teeth rule.

TouringAccord

good to hear

skhell

Great how-to, perhaps the best I have seen

I am going to change the timing belts, tensioners and water pump on my 1.8 Accord, year 2000, engine F18B2. By what I have seen, the job is very similar.

Just one simple question, I don't see in your guide how you replaced the tensioners. Its just remove the tensioner adjusting bolt, remove the springs, remove the old tensioners, install the new tensioners, re-attach the springs and put back the adjusting bolt, or is there anything special to do?

TouringAccord

Thank you!

you got it, nothing special to it.

skhell

Great

I am think on making an how-to on how to replace it on my car, including pictures of my car. Do you authorize me to change your guide and adapt it to the model of my car?

TouringAccord

well you obviously cant modify this how-to but you can use this as a guide to come up with a how-to of your own for your car. Once you have it posted I can add it to the FAQ.

skhell

Well, I guess that I don't myself understand . What I meant was that I want to create a new howto, using yours as a guide

skhell

Hi!

I have just replaced the timing belts, tesioners and water pump this weekend on my 2000 Accord 1.8(F18B2). Everything went smooth and the car is working fine . This forum helped a lot

I just got one doubt, should I re-tension the belts after done some time?