JZiggy

iTrader: (2)

TouringAccord, thanks for the write up!!! Successfully completed the timing belt job on my 94 EX with your help.

Just a couple notes to add to the procedure:

1) I used a crank pulley holder tool from TASauto.com. Should be POSauto, that thing bent like it was made out of cheese. I ended up having to cram the "handle" into a 1 1/2" steel pipe to hold it.

2) I drained the coolant from the radiator petcock, but this did not drain all the coolant from the block. When I pulled the water pump I got a small tsunami... doh!

3) I had a couple issues with stripped bolts. I pulled the oil pump to replace the o-ring gasket and one of the bolt holes lost a good portion of its threads. Just a warning to those attempting the job... might want to keep a helicoil kit on hand if you like things to be done perfectly.

MrGiggles

Just a quick note for anyone who couldn't find the right tool or didn't want to buy it. Everywhere local to me didn't have it except sears, who wanted 150.00 for it.

I removed the starter and put a prybar in the flywheel teeth to hold the engine while I took off the balancer bolt. You need a helper to hold the prybar.

GhostAccord

If you are referring to the crank pulley tool. You should be able to buy one that works for less than $50. That's all I paid for my Powerbuilt 50mm crank pulley tool (Part No. 648796) It's worked on more than one occasion.

I wouldn't advise jamming a pry bar between your aluminum trans case and the flywheel. Sure it might work, However it can also be quite damaging when it doesn't. Too each his own though.

Get it for $22.00 online

MrGiggles

More than anything I just didn't want to wait for the tool to get here. Not to mention I don't like paying for something that I'm only going to use once every several years.

The prybar worked very well, it didn't slip or grind any teeth. And if you account for the mechanical advantage you have by holding the flywheel it doesn't require any muscle to hold it there.

Stagerguy

Excellent write up TouringAccord, thanks for taking the time. Always cool when you post something from years ago and it's still pertinent today,

GhostAccord

Sell it when your done with it, some parts stores even lend them out!

What mechanical advantage? Doesn't take any muscle or that extra set of hands to hold the ratchet too the floor ether.

I used the pulley tool and a 19mm socket on my own without any issues. Or the use of any air tools at that.

But like I said too each his own. We could sit here and talk about the pros and cons of back yard mechanics all day. At the end of the day there is no replacement for having the right tool for the job!

avilarmando

Great Job... How can I tell what type of engine I have?

GhostAccord

If it's a inline 4 cylinder the code is stamped on the block between the exhaust manifold and transmission just above the center engine mount.

Upper rad hose -><- engine mount........ ^ exhaust manifold

It's the one highlighted on the bottom

MrGiggles

My local Oriellys and autozone didn't even know what kind of tool I needed. The only place local I could get it was sears, but it was 150.00.

The advantage is holding the engine by the flywheel (large diameter, not as much force required to hold it still.) You are very correct in that there is no better replacement than the right tool for the job. That's just what I did in a pinch.

djkurious

Just as a FYI:

I went to Majestic Honda's site and navigated to the timing belt.
They are listed "BELT, TIMING (112RU24 D-100) (UNITTA)"
I googled the word in parenthesis and the 1st thing that shows up is Gates.
I priced them, Honda is 43.24 (Majestic) and Gates is 22.79 (Rock Auto)
This should end the war on "Which timing belt should I use." They are both the same.

lupe1

Nice writeup...but I have a small question...I have a 1991 honda accord MT...I'm in the process of doing the timing belt job but it has turned into an engine removal/reinstallation and back to timing belt job. Previous mechanic put a bunch of silicon on water pump seal which leaked into the water pump anchoring bolt holes and probably overtorqed them as well. In the process of removing the water pump a bolt broke off so thus the engine removal to repair said hole... Anyhow the question pertains to the oil pump balance gear timing position. Since I did not plan on removing engine initially I didn't see a need to lock the balance shaft/oil pump gear. In the process of removing the engine I noticed that this gear turned on me some. Is there an equilibrium position that this shaft wants to be at? I did mark its initial position with white out but I don't know whether it rotated a turn or two while removing the engine out and reinstalling it back. thanks for this nice writeup TouringAccord

TouringAccord

No, it's doesn't matter if that gear has been rotated. Just be sure to have it aligned properly. If you marked it with whiteout you can align those marks but then I would also double check it by doing Step 30.

and you're welcome, glad the write-up has helped.

oregonorganic76

I suspect that the 91 Accord I bought a few weeks back for a song has a incorrectly installed Timing belt. My timing light can't even see a timing mark on the flywheel(I did jump the ECU service plug), and the engine runs rough, but does run.

What is the quickest way to verify that the timing light isn't lying? Turn the crankshaft to top dead center, and then look at the timing marks on the camshaft? All the info I can find on timing belts is about replacing belts in cars whose timing is still on, how can I tell if mine is wrong?

76 camaro car

Great Writeup Touring Accord. I will be doing this job next weekend due to a water pump that has developed a leak. In step 20 you keep refering to GT after each step,what does this mean? That was the only thing in the article I did not understand. This is going to be my next weekend project as I am going to have to continue to use my car this week on a very limited scale. The water pump is not leaking bad. I put like a pint of water in twice a day. I really hate to drive the car like this but I have to go to work. Thanks for the great write up. I printed out the steps so I will have them with me while I do the job.

TouringAccord

Thank You

as for Step 20... what you saw was &gt; which back before H-T switched to vB resulted in a > symbol. I have corrected that now

lupe1

Just to let you know I also started off like this with a small "water pump" leak. It turned out to be the rear heater hose next to the water pump on the water pump pipe. I thought that the water pump was going out since it was approaching its "lifetime". Only after removal of the water pump did I discover that it was only a $30 hose that needed replacement...oh well it was time anyways. I should have inspected the leak source more carefully but since the coolant was leaking right next to water pump I thought otherwise.

Thanks for the quick reply Touring Accord. I'm still reassembling my car and waiting for parts...no rush here since I have two other cars (VW's). I did look at the oil pump balance shaft this weekend and noticed that there are two certain positions were it wants to be at...depending whether I turn it one turn clockwise or counterclockwise. In one position turning clockwise a bit it wants to go back to equilibrium but turning the other way it doesn't do much. In the second position after turning the gear one full turn, turning counterclockwise a bit it wants to go back down to equilibrium but again turning the other way it doesn't do anything. So it seems that there are two equilibrium positions one full turn away from each other? Perhaps I will remove the balance shaft inspection/lock access bolt hole and see whether one of this positions is the correct one to insert a lock bolt since I'm going to replace the oil pump gasket as preventative maintenance. Maybe I'm worrying too much but isn't it called a balance shaft because it needs to keep the engine in balance? If its incorrectly timed wouldn't my engine shake/vibrate at certain rpms?

TouringAccord

no problem

and yes, if it's not timed correctly then you will get more engine vibration than normal.

maybe this will help you with setting the rear balance shaft correctly...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/timing-balance-shafts-96-accord-2-2l-2249804/

lupe1

Again thank you very much Touring Accord. That answers all my concerns. This will be my first time doing this sort of thing, hell the engine removal in itself without anyone's help except manual was a feat all on its own. After this hopefully successful surgery I will surely feel I'm moving on to the next level, but of course it is places like here that make it the learning curve rise faster than usual. Many thanks...still waiting for parts to arrive to finish this job.

TouringAccord

no problem, glad I could help. Good luck with finishing the job and if you have any other questions just ask

76 camaro car

I am trying to do this but I can not get my crankshaft pully bolt to break loose. I tried using a 1/2" drive 24" breaker bar,a 36"cheater bar, Impact extensions and a 19mm impact socket. While trying to remove the bolt I first broke a 1/2"drive impact extension. I then tried it without a extension and broke the impact socket. This bolt will not budge and I have to get it out to replace my leaking water pump. Any ideas on how to break this bolt loose would be appreciated.

lupe1

76 camaro car, I assume you are somehow holding the crankpulley from spinning? I made my own tool to hold this pulley in place it has a 50mm hex hole that you're supposed to hold down with the an official Honda tool, but you can buy them on amazon for about $25. I didn't want to wait for it so I went to the local hardware store and made my own tool out of pluming pipes using a 2 inch hex pluming nut. I read about somewhere how to make this tool. Anyhow I proped it up inside the pulley hole with the help of jackstands and used extensions with a cheap Harbor Freight 1/2 breaker bar with cheater pipe. I also had to support the breaker bar with another set of jackstands to apply the torque correctly. It came off after a while of pushing down with my body weight. I did spray it with some anti-seize stuff earlier as well...wd-40 or pb blaster. I don't remember if I had to resort to using a torch as well? Actually this one was easier than the 36mm axle nuts I removed for a separate operation...those ones I really thought I was about to break the "cheap" Harbor Freight breaker bar. I used an impact 6 point 36mm driver and ocassionaly beat on it with a hamer as I used my body weight to exert torque on this axle nuts. But with persistence they came off!

76 camaro car

Thanks, Its nice to know I am not the only one having this trouble. Since I have read about this issue I have not heard anyone say it was not difficult.

76 camaro car

I just replaced my water pump and belts. Stopped my water leak but some how ended up a little out of time. The best I can get is 15 degrees out with my distributor. Can I just set my crankcase pully at TDC and remove the camshaft belt and set it at TDC to correct this? I will not have time to make this correction until this weekend. The car runs good and there is no rattling. Will I be OK driving like this this til saturday if I limit driving only where I must ? I really have no choice becouse of work and school.

poorman212

Who are the makers of the pieces....gates belts?, water pump by?, tensioner by?


Can you help me out.

76 camaro car

I got all the parts at oreilly auto parts. The belts were made by gates. The other parts I threw away the boxes so I don,t know. The water pump has a lifetime warrenty on it though.