headshrink

94 Accord EX 155,000mi.

Symptoms:
Will not shift out of park. Depressing brake does not release it. I have been useing the shift-lock switch (stick the key in next to shifter) all week.
I also just discovered the brake lights don't work.

Research:
I have read a bunch of posts on this forum and the consensus is, in this kind of situation, that it is a)blown fuse, b)bad brake light switch, c)bad wiring and/or harness to brake light switch or d) bad shift-lock solenoid.

Attempts to repair:
I checked the fuses and honked the horn (shares fuse with brake lights) = FUSES LOOK GOOD AND HORN WORKS

I used a paperclip to use as a jumper and short the wiring harness for the brake lights = LIGHTS LIT UP (so far it looks like a bad switch to me)

I pulled the brake light switch out and tested for continuity with a multimeter = INCONCLUSIVE (see below)
-This test I consider inconclusive, but mostly because I am not very good with the multimeter. I used the setting for continuity (the one that beeps if a circuit is closed). I touched it to the pins on the switch and pressed the button. The problem is.... IT BEEPED. I would think if it was broken it wouldn't beep, but recognizing I don't have a strong understanding of electricity, I realize I may have been going about it all wrong.

Question:
Did I miss something?
Did I screw-up the test of the switch, was there a better way?
Does my switch test really indicate either working or faulty?

213374U

Sorry I can't help but I just gotta say one thing....

This is by far the best 1st post I've read yet. Dude did his research, gave as much info as he could, and actually tried to fix the problem before posting.

to this guy

P_Adams

First chance you get, purchase a 12volt test light. The type I want you to look for has a clear plastic handle with an embedded bulb, a probe end which resembles an ice pick and one wire lead with an alligator clip on the end.
Assemble everything back together.
1) With the test light, probe the back side of the brake switch connector for power on one side. If OK
2) Probe the other wire in the connector. If the light stays off w/out the pedal pressed, and goes on when it is depressed. The switch is working properly. If the light stays off with the pedals depressed; either the switch is defective or miss-adjusted.
3) If you have the light going on when the pedals depressed, and the brake lamps work; you should hear the Shift Interlock Solenoid click every time the pedal's depressed.
4) If it doesn't, suspect either a bad connection or a bad solenoid.

That's about it

P

deserthonda

if u jumped the wires at switch and lites came on , than no need to go any further u got a bad switch........

deserthonda

i stand corrected u could have a poor connection at the switch as well

P_Adams

It's too late at night to do this sh...t.
D, How can you stand corrected, when you corrected yourself? LOL

I think we're all getting a little punchy

P

deserthonda

yo P- ole buddy it is only 11 pm here how about u >> 1 am and still up helping people ?? i hope people appreciate such devotion

headshrink

FIXED!!!!

Thanks all for your help.
I didn't get your replies until just now, otherwise I would have jumped at the excuse to get a new tool - even if it was just a test light.

A new switch is all I needed. Had I known before I started researching, I wouldn't have torn apart the consul, lol! Oh well, at least I know how it all works now.

Vt4cPwn35, Thanks for the kind remarks. Experience from other hobby forums are responsible for the lesson in board etiquette