Kidstarwind

Hey Guy's I'm 94.6% sure I'm posting this in the wrong place.(100% some1 will point it out anyway) but I have a 1990 Honda Accord lx. I was having issues with the rpms dropping and the car will eventually stall. I've replaced spark plugs, spark wires, rotor cap and button along with the fuel filter. All advise given on this site for very similar issues.. While the car now runs better than ever(for the brief amount of time it's runs) it still stalls out when I come to a complete stop. So any additional help would be great . Cause asking for rides just ain't cutting it... Ps I have video of exactly what's happening just don't know how to add it yet.

poorman212

Thanks for taking care of/ruling out the regular wear items - basic tune up stuff.

Next on the list would be checking and being sure the cooling system it topped off and there is no trapped air in the system.....these Accord's don't like air in the cooling system and can cause issues like you are describing.

Next would be a good cleaning of the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.....while there you might as well do the same for the Fast Idle Thermo Valve. There is/are plenty or write ups on these two floating around.....hint, FAQ section or google.

GhostAccord

Is the check engine light on?

As poorman mentioned, a thorough cleaning of the throttle body, IAC and FIT valves and the intake manifold/EGR ports would be another good option. Also check for any loose wires and connectors.

Kidstarwind

sorry for the slow response time and thanks for all the advice. I have done everything except the EGR ports. Now the ghost revving has stopped but the car stalls when it gets to operating temp. And refuses to crank back up until cool. I've researched that this could be my main relay or that my wire harness is dead. I'm hoping of anything the relay because I've been told the harness repair can be around $2000 to fix

GhostAccord

I agree that it could be the main relay. Never herd of a completely dead harness though. A shorted wire or broken connector maybe, and I would never pay anywhere near $2k for a wire harness repair.

Before you go and buy a new relay, I would troubleshoot the relay and then look into the main relay fix.
The other thing to look at where this happens at/above operating temperatures is your Engine coolant sensor. There could be something with the wiring, connector or the sensor itself. There are ways to troubleshoot the sensor, rather than buying one and replacing it.