Majisto

Hey guys, my friend has a 1998 Accord, and we have been trying to diagnose a problem he has with the fuel system. The CEL light came on, and after the codes were read P1457 came up. Recently, when it was in for an oil change at the dealer, the dealer said it would cost $1000 to replace the part. His parents cannot remember (They took it in for the oil change when he was out of town) what the exact part was (Must be SOMETHING big if it's that much money...or the dealership is just being a stealership).

Anyway, I found out about this part called the canister vent shut valve that can fail. One of the strange problems the car has is that when you try to fill it up with gasoline, you cannot have the pump at full power or it will click off. So there is definitely something wrong with the fuel system. Also, it is acting a bit "sluggish". What is the test for a bad CVS valve (And replacement procedure), and where is the EVAP system located?

JimBlake

P1457 isn't for a single "part", it's the EVAP canister system.
Check this out. I've got a post in there towards the bottom. I'm not gonna write it out all over again...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=748876

When my vent-shut valve failed, there were no symptoms. No problem at the gas pump either. That valve doesn't have anything to do with venting the filler pipe. But there's several other hoses there alongside the filler pipe, and if one of those isn't airtight you'll get P1457. Take off the plastic shrouds in the wheel well & look around.

fast93accord

codes 1456 and 1457 are both Evap leak codes. It can be a few things. 1st thing is a loose gas cap. Tighten the gas cap atleast 3 clicks, and drive for a while. If the light goes out that was it. With a honda PGM tester or HDS, you can test the solenoids in the evap system. There is 3 solenoids. Purge solenoid, bypass solenoid, and CVS (cansiter vent shut solenoid). The canister vent shut solenoids go bad all the time on 92-02 accords. To replace it, you need to remove the canister, which is near the gas tank under the vehicle. The CVS has 1 connectoer, one large rubber hose on it, and 2 screws holding it on. The reason these go bad, is due mainly to roadsalt. During the winter, all the roadsalt/water mix, get spashed all over, and that solenoid generly gets salt water in it. This will short out the coil inside it. I'm pretty sure a new CVS is under $100, and easy to replace. However, the 2 screws holding it on will be extremely rusted. Spray them with wd40 and try to break the loose. The they strip you will need to work them out with small vice grips...If thet dealership tried charging $1000 to fix it, that is rediculous.

JimBlake

A loose gas cap should throw P1456, not 1457.

I changed the EVAP canister vent-shut valve without taking out the canister. But those 2 little screws were b!#&#es. The valve was more like $50, IIRC.

But then there's the ORVR vent-shut valve, it's on top of the gas tank. You have to drop the tank to get it. Maybe that's the big labor cost? But they'd have to go thru the whole diagnostic process, in order to know which valve it is...