ERG valve or EGR passage
#1
ERG valve or EGR passage
Hello All
1992 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 230000 miles
I noticed that upon acceleration that my car sputters then would burst back to normal driving. It sputter about usually under 1500-2000 rmp. This only happen when the car is warmed up.
I narrowed the problem down to either EGR valve and clog EGR passage.
I cleaned the 6 plugs on the intake. I only clean the opening hole not deep within the passage. I also cleaned the EGR valve.
After cleaning, the problem still exist.
I took the EGR off and cover the 2 opening on the EGR valve. The sputtering disappeared.
My conclusion is EGR related. After much reading, I came to 2 conclusions.
1- EGR valve is defected. From what i read, EGR valve rarely defected.
2- EGR valve work, some EGR passage is still clogged. This caused more exhausted gas to flow back to other opened intake cyclinder.
I don't want to spend $130 to get new EGR then the problem still exist.
Any suggestion what to do?
thanks
1992 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 230000 miles
I noticed that upon acceleration that my car sputters then would burst back to normal driving. It sputter about usually under 1500-2000 rmp. This only happen when the car is warmed up.
I narrowed the problem down to either EGR valve and clog EGR passage.
I cleaned the 6 plugs on the intake. I only clean the opening hole not deep within the passage. I also cleaned the EGR valve.
After cleaning, the problem still exist.
I took the EGR off and cover the 2 opening on the EGR valve. The sputtering disappeared.
My conclusion is EGR related. After much reading, I came to 2 conclusions.
1- EGR valve is defected. From what i read, EGR valve rarely defected.
2- EGR valve work, some EGR passage is still clogged. This caused more exhausted gas to flow back to other opened intake cyclinder.
I don't want to spend $130 to get new EGR then the problem still exist.
Any suggestion what to do?
thanks
#2
Disconnect the egr valve connector. Drive around until the check engine light comes on which means the egr system is turned off. If the issue goes away the issue is related to the egr system. If the issue persists the issue is not related to the egr system.
#4
Re: ERG valve or EGR passage
Thanks for the advice.
The car got better if I blocked the EGR valve. The thing that I puzzle about is the EGR bad or the EGR passage is blocked. Causing the exhaust gas to go to the opened port more. Which caused the sputtering.
Thanks again
The car got better if I blocked the EGR valve. The thing that I puzzle about is the EGR bad or the EGR passage is blocked. Causing the exhaust gas to go to the opened port more. Which caused the sputtering.
Thanks again
#5
MM Gruppe B
Re: ERG valve or EGR passage
Depends on how you blocked flow of the EGR system.
Removing the vacuum hose prevents the valve from being actuated, but should cause a CEL from the lift sensor not operating.
Removing the electrical connector causes and open in the lift sensor circuit, and should cause the CEL to light for the lift sensor.
Physically blocking the EGR valve from the EGR ports will not cause any codes. If the EGR valve is not seating correctly(sticking valve, carbon jamming valve open) or the return spring in the diaphragm is weak the exhaust gases may push past the valve and into the intake when not desired. This would cause rough running. At part throttle with the EGR blocked you should experience some pinging or knocking with the EGR flow blocked. But the CEL will not come on if the vacuum diaphragm is functional and activating the lift sensor.
Removing the vacuum hose prevents the valve from being actuated, but should cause a CEL from the lift sensor not operating.
Removing the electrical connector causes and open in the lift sensor circuit, and should cause the CEL to light for the lift sensor.
Physically blocking the EGR valve from the EGR ports will not cause any codes. If the EGR valve is not seating correctly(sticking valve, carbon jamming valve open) or the return spring in the diaphragm is weak the exhaust gases may push past the valve and into the intake when not desired. This would cause rough running. At part throttle with the EGR blocked you should experience some pinging or knocking with the EGR flow blocked. But the CEL will not come on if the vacuum diaphragm is functional and activating the lift sensor.
#6
Umm no. Thats not the way it works. Doesnt sound like you will listen anyhow.
#7
Re: ERG valve or EGR passage
Not that I will not listen. If I don't listen, I would not be here in the first place.
I just want to let you know what I did so far and what mine thought is.
I will try your suggestion.
I will pull the vacuum line tomorrow and see what happen.
thanks again for advice
I just want to let you know what I did so far and what mine thought is.
I will try your suggestion.
I will pull the vacuum line tomorrow and see what happen.
thanks again for advice
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#8
I never ever ever said to pull a vacuum line.
#10
Yes. Completely warm the car up. Turn the car off. Disconnect the connector. Start the car and drive around. When the check engine light comes on, note if your issue either goes away or continues to occur.
Last edited by holmesnmanny; 02-23-2015 at 03:34 AM.
#11
Re: ERG valve or EGR passage
OK, I pulled the connector and drive around until engine light turn on. The problem went away.
It is the EGR valve.
How will I know if the EGR valve or the EGR passage is block?
I want to inform you that I pulled all six plugs and clean the opening. This is the first time doing this, when clean the port I was cautious. I feel that did not clean thoroughly. I used the drill bit to clean the opening and vacuum the carbon deposit. I did not use any carburetor cleaner. I was not aware of the little opening deep down. Aside from reopen all 6 plugs and clean it again. Is there anything I can do to make sure it is the EGR valve not the passage?
I am thinking about ordering the new EGR valve and plug it in to see if the problem went away. If the problem is the passage, I end up wasting $130 for the new EGR valve.
Any suggestion is appropriated.
Thanks
It is the EGR valve.
How will I know if the EGR valve or the EGR passage is block?
I want to inform you that I pulled all six plugs and clean the opening. This is the first time doing this, when clean the port I was cautious. I feel that did not clean thoroughly. I used the drill bit to clean the opening and vacuum the carbon deposit. I did not use any carburetor cleaner. I was not aware of the little opening deep down. Aside from reopen all 6 plugs and clean it again. Is there anything I can do to make sure it is the EGR valve not the passage?
I am thinking about ordering the new EGR valve and plug it in to see if the problem went away. If the problem is the passage, I end up wasting $130 for the new EGR valve.
Any suggestion is appropriated.
Thanks
#12
Re: ERG valve or EGR passage
Also you need to get a new egr valve gasket, remove the egr valve, clean the egr valve pintle by pushing the diaphragm with your fingers to open it up and using carb cleaner to clean it out and also clean down inside the egr valve port underneath.
#13
Re: ERG valve or EGR passage
Redo the EGR passage cleaning again over the weekend. The hole down on the bottom was completely blocked. I did not see it on the first time. Cleaned out all 6 ports.
The car run great now.
Thanks for all the help.
The car run great now.
Thanks for all the help.
#15
Re: ERG valve or EGR passage
#16
MM Gruppe B
Re: ERG valve or EGR passage
Use a #1 and #2 flat head screwdrivers to clear out the majority of the carbon with a vacuum to suck it up. Then wipe the rest off with clean lint free with throttle body cleaner. Feed port on the F22A engines you may need to use a small engine cleaning brush.
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