pos_cd5

i replaced my rear brake shoes for the first time today. after i got the new shoes in it looked good, but the drums didnt want to go back in. it took about 2 hours for me to froce the drums back on with alot of piunding with a mallet and kicking, and even using the lug nuts to force them on. it seems as though the shoes are too thick and it doesnt physically fit. i turned the adjuster screw all the way down, and i dont see any other way make the shoes smaller. im stumped. and the brand of the brake shoes are Duralast BTW

streetxdreamer

are u sure u have the spprings in right? i beleive one is longer than the other

pos_cd5

yes, the springs are in right.

jimjonez

keep repositioning the shoe assembly. it should fit i just replaced mine on my 1990 accord. similar problems of what your going thru. trick is be patient. getting pissed off about it and hammering away will only make it harder

professorman

How many miles were on your Accord before needing them replaced? I have 150k miles now, and I am wondering if I will be needing them replaced anytime soon.

Chiovnidca

Did you turn the adjusters all the way in?

The-Kid

I believe, correct me if I'm wrong, 1 shoe is bigger than the other. <--- learned that in Auto Shop class(at least on old american cars). I had trouble with Duralast before for my front brakes. Won't go in properly. They forgot to chip off this tiny little metal.

Why dont you get another set of drum shoes and compare them.

pos_cd5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jimjonez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep repositioning the shoe assembly. it should fit i just replaced mine on my 1990 accord. similar problems of what your going thru. trick is be patient. getting pissed off about it and hammering away will only make it harder</TD></TR></TABLE>

tried that for about an hour. no good.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by profroopchan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many miles were on your Accord before needing them replaced? I have 150k miles now, and I am wondering if I will be needing them replaced anytime soon. </TD></TR></TABLE>

im currently at approximately 130k miles and the shoes has quiet a bit of life still in them, but i had the new shoes lying around the garage. so i was like wth lets replace em, its summer and i dont have school or a job right now. too much free time.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you turn the adjusters all the way in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The-Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe, correct me if I'm wrong, 1 shoe is bigger than the other. &lt;--- learned that in Auto Shop class(at least on old american cars). I had trouble with Duralast before for my front brakes. Won't go in properly. They forgot to chip off this tiny little metal.

Why dont you get another set of drum shoes and compare them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the two shoes lok about the same size to me, but there is only 1 way to put them on, it would be impossible to mix em up. and im thinking it might be the durlast shoes thats the problem, because it literally seems as though the shoes are too thick.

you guys think adjusting my E-brake would help? or would it be a just band-aiding a bigger problem here?


Modified by pos_cd5 at 3:44 PM 6/7/2007

pos_cd5

problem fixed! i just adjusted the e-brake and its all fine now.

The-Kid

lol who would have thought it could be the e brake. Anyways nice dood. I'll keep that in mind when I'm changing my drums.

Loco-B

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pos_cd5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> problem fixed! i just adjusted the e-brake and its all fine now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow.....too bad i didnt get to this thread earlier. Most of the time when people do their drums they also engage the e-brake and half the time thats what prevents them from getting the drum back on. Other times it just needs adjustment. Nice job on Figuring it out dude!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The-Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol who would have thought it could be the e brake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its true.....i work with some mechanics who cant even figure it out. But they're ameratures. LOL

Schmitey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LocOBanAnA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i work with some mechanics who cant even figure it out. But they're ameratures. LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>

Second that. My personal favorite is american cars that have screws holding the drum on. I've seen people beat the crap out of them without opening their eyes to the screws that are RIGHT THERE!

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

the hand brake should be the last thing to be adjusted. Next time you service your rear brakes, bottom out the adjuster, install the drums, and tighten it up from the access hole in the back. you should feel a slight drag on the drums. Proper drag can be measured with the wheel installed. if turned, the wheel should make almost 1 revolution. Once this is achieved on both sides, then adjust the e-brake handle so it is tight at 3 clicks, and the car wont move at 5.

Some people are too ******* lazy to adjust the rear brakes, so they tighten up the e-brake to compensate. This can cause the rear shoe to drag and decrease braking performance, kill the life of the shoe, and makes it a pain in the *** to install the drum the next time its serviced.

pos_cd5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the hand brake should be the last thing to be adjusted. Next time you service your rear brakes, bottom out the adjuster, install the drums, and tighten it up from the access hole in the back. you should feel a slight drag on the drums. Proper drag can be measured with the wheel installed. if turned, the wheel should make almost 1 revolution. Once this is achieved on both sides, then adjust the e-brake handle so it is tight at 3 clicks, and the car wont move at 5.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did bottom out the adjustment screw, still didnt help. and i dont know what access hole your talking about.

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

no, I mean, you need to bottom out the adjuster in the drum assembly, then reinstall the drum, install the wheel, and tighten the adjuster in the access hole in the backing plate behind the hub. once the shoes are adjusted, then adjust the parking brake. if the parking brake is adjusted too tight, when you put on new shoes the drum wont fit like you were talking about. Thats what happen when people expletive around with **** they THINK they know about.

ETA: that last comment was not aimed at anyone in this thread, just in general. I get lots of cars where people have tightend the e-brake too much instead of just adjusting the shoes properly and it pisses me off. /rant

pos_cd5

i dont remember any hole anywhere for you to adjust the adjustment screw when the drum is back on. and the accords adjusting screw is self adjusting. so i really have no idea what your talking about now. either im blind and incompetent or your pulling **** out of your *** at this point now.

Schmitey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pos_cd5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont remember any hole anywhere for you to adjust the adjustment screw when the drum is back on. and the accords adjusting screw is self adjusting. so i really have no idea what your talking about now. either im blind and incompetent or your pulling **** out of your *** at this point now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

suit yourself. Short of cutting the damn thing off how are you supposed to get a very worn drum off that has an 1/8 in. lip on it? You have to go in there with screwdrivers and back the adjuster off in that case. There's a black rubber access plug that comes off. Don't make accusations when you don't know what you're talking about!

Sounds like somebody needs to read a manual next time despite their 1500+ posts...

Chiovnidca

heeeeee

pos_cd5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

suit yourself. Short of cutting the damn thing off how are you supposed to get a very worn drum off that has an 1/8 in. lip on it? You have to go in there with screwdrivers and back the adjuster off in that case. There's a black rubber access plug that comes off. Don't make accusations when you don't know what you're talking about!

Sounds like somebody needs to read a manual next time despite their 1500+ posts...</TD></TR></TABLE>

aww i got pwned...

in my haynes it didnt say anything about a plug & access hole. and it was probably covered under 1/4 in. of brake dust grease on my car so i musta missed it. and when you guys say back the adjuster off, you mean make it as short as it'll possibly go right? if thats the case, i did that before i even put the drum back on. so i dont see the need to do it through the acess hole.

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pos_cd5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

aww i got pwned...

in my haynes it didnt say anything about a plug & access hole. and it was probably covered under 1/4 in. of brake dust grease on my car so i musta missed it. and when you guys say back the adjuster off, you mean make it as short as it'll possibly go right? if thats the case, i did that before i even put the drum back on. so i dont see the need to do it through the acess hole.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe an apology is in order here. Dont go around accusing people of not knowing what their talking about, when you are the one that has no clue about what they are talking about.

Perhaps you should consider fully reading the steps involved in your Haynes manual, and make sure you fully undestand what is required for the job. Weather it be special tools required, or terms used that you do not understand, its always best to know what your getting into.

Also, its a good idea, especially when doing rear brakes, do them 1 side at a time. If you forget where a spring goes, or which way the adjuster needs to go, you can always look at the other side. Just my $.02

pos_cd5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Perhaps you should consider fully reading the steps involved in your Haynes manual, and make sure you fully undestand what is required for the job. Weather it be special tools required, or terms used that you do not understand, its always best to know what your getting into.

Also, its a good idea, especially when doing rear brakes, do them 1 side at a time. If you forget where a spring goes, or which way the adjuster needs to go, you can always look at the other side. Just my $.02</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did read all the steps in the manual. but as you may or may not know haynes isnt very thorough. it also didnt specify any special tools needed. and yes, i did do 1 side at a time, to make sure i get everything right.

and gee, if your going to be so butt hurt about it..."sorry"

Schmitey

Yeah Haynes blows man, no argument there. That's why I go with the Helms dealer repair manual if in doubt. Its unbelievable... I have Haynes manuals for a couple cars and the pictures are identical for a lot of stuff, it like WTF?

pos_cd5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah Haynes blows man, no argument there. That's why I go with the Helms dealer repair manual if in doubt. Its unbelievable... I have Haynes manuals for a couple cars and the pictures are identical for a lot of stuff, it like WTF?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i was going to buy a helms...but after looking at the price for one, versus $12 i paid for the haynes, im like expletive it, i have honda-tech for anything haynes doesnt tell me.

Schmitey

ebay man, sometimes you can get lucky and pick one up real cheap. Just try not to get a burned cd...some of them are crappy scans of the paper manual.

Seriously though. Someone (not me) from Honda-tech should organize a Helms wholesale buy. I bet we could get some fat pricecuts if we bought say 500 at one time!