TouringAccord

yes, the axle should just slide out of the hub if it's not rusted. If it is rusted, spray it with pb blaster and a 3 jaw puller can be used to push the axle out.

nukem384

also about the axel, it looks like in a lot of pics, that's it's really far extended out. do you just pop it back in or is there a special trick to getting the outer boot back in? i only ask b/c a few years ago i had a horribly bad experience trying to pop the axel back in, and it just wouldn't go, so i ended up taking the boot off and getting axel grease all over the place.

jdm_dc4_fanatic - how long did it take you to press the new bearing onto the hub? I've been calling around and all the shops are giving me prices around $50-100, but I think they are thinking of the typical Honda wheel bearings that are pressed into the knuckle, not just the hub.

TouringAccord - I've seen your posts with the $25ish quote, so would that be for like 15 minutes of labor?


Modified by nukem384 at 10:25 PM 2/26/2008

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nukem384 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also about the axel, it looks like in a lot of pics, that's it's really far extended out. do you just pop it back in or is there a special trick to getting the outer boot back in? i only ask b/c a few years ago i had a horribly bad experience trying to pop the axel back in, and it just wouldn't go, so i ended up taking the boot off and getting axel grease all over the place.

jdm_dc4_fanatic - how long did it take you to press the new bearing onto the hub? I've been calling around and all the shops are giving me prices around $50-100, but I think they are thinking of the typical Honda wheel bearings that are pressed into the knuckle, not just the hub.

TouringAccord - I've seen your posts with the $25ish quote, so would that be for like 15 minutes of labor?


Modified by nukem384 at 10:25 PM 2/26/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont remove the axel, you just push it back, and pull our the hub.

As for the bearing, I did it for free at work. Just order the hub, and bearing, go to a machine shop with $20 cash and ask them to press them together just as I did.

nukem384

i didn't mean remove the axel from the tranny, but just the outer part of the axel, the boot that is connected to the bearing and hub, it looks like that part is popped out in many pics, or am i just totally off and it shouldn't be popping out of the boot at all?

so to press the bearing and hub together literally takes 5 mins to do just like in those 3 sequential pics right?

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nukem384 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didn't mean remove the axel from the tranny, but just the outer part of the axel, the boot that is connected to the bearing and hub, it looks like that part is popped out in many pics, or am i just totally off and it shouldn't be popping out of the boot at all?

so to press the bearing and hub together literally takes 5 mins to do just like in those 3 sequential pics right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont even touch the axel boot unless its torn. just push the snout of the axel towards the tranny so the hub can slide out easier. and if that doesnt make sense, jsut dont touch the thing.

nukem384

totally understand what you're saying, thanks. now i just hope i can find someplace that will press the hub and bearing together for cheap!

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

money talks, bullshit walks my friend. show up with cash, and its a done deal. Dont go up front and talk to the boss, he wil want to make an invoice, blah blah. Just to the back, and findsomeone. Show em the cash, and call it done. Best bet is to go to a garage though. A tranny shop will always have a press.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nukem384 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TouringAccord - I've seen your posts with the $25ish quote, so would that be for like 15 minutes of labor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

$25 is the general going rate for machine shop work like this. If somewhere is trying to charge you more go elsewhere.

a new hub and new bearing will press together in no time because you don't have to separate the hub from the old bearing or the inner race from the old hub.

The boot on the axle is in no way attached to the hub or bearing. Don't even mess with the boot unless there is a tear in it.

NGUSPEED

Instead of using Acura 2.3CL Brake Rotors, would there be a difference in using 98-02 Honda Accord (4cyl) Rotors instead? I know the part numbers are a little different.

dleccord

im gonna have to bump this since i got a question...

when the knuckle is out, how are would it be to remove the four bolts when i dont have anything to hold the knuckle down? how much torque?

bow tie

awesome man, thanks for the write up

dleccord

when the knuckle is out, how are would it be to remove the four bolts when i dont have anything to hold the knuckle down?

Daibutsu

I did this conversion along with replacing the boots on both axels this past Saturday. This write up is fantastic. Thanks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dleccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when the knuckle is out, how are would it be to remove the four bolts when i dont have anything to hold the knuckle down? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The four bolts holding the bearing in place are not that difficult. You should have no problem placing the knuckle in a good position to get enough leverage on them. I put it on the ground with the upper ball joint end, the tie rod end, and the hub all touching the ground and knelt on it. the bolts came out without any problems. You may want to spray them down first with some WD-40 or some such solvent.

My biggest issue was getting the bearing out of the knuckle. I tried the Wagner directions by replacing the bearing bolts with some extra long ones and using an air hammer on them to vibrate it loose - no luck. The BFH worked wonders in no time. As long as you don't plan on reusing the bearings, I would highly recommend this method.

I am thrilled with the thought of quick and easy brake jobs in the future.

Thanks again

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

Glad I could help

hb_guy

nice write up

Nisif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NGUSPEED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Instead of using Acura 2.3CL Brake Rotors, would there be a difference in using 98-02 Honda Accord (4cyl) Rotors instead? I know the part numbers are a little different. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Also wondering if the 98-02 Accord Rotors will work, can anyone confirm this?

RS2 FAB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nisif &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also wondering if the 98-02 Accord Rotors will work, can anyone confirm this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

is there a reason why you guys ask about the 98-02 rotors? are they bigger?

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS2 FAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is there a reason why you guys ask about the 98-02 rotors? are they bigger? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I gotta double check, but I am pretty sure that the 6th gen accord rotors have a diffrent offset from the hub, thats why the CL rotors are used.

You could also use the 3.0CL rotors if you wanted to go bigger, but that requires a bracket and pad upgrade as well. However, its 1" bigger in so if you want more stopping power, thats the way to go.

h22accord723

I just got my ROH conversion kit from tasautoparts today. The hub and the bearings are already pressed together, also got the cross drilled rotors with it. I can't wait to put em on

TASAuto.com

Yes you can use 98-02 4cyl rotors

NGUSPEED

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22accord723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got my ROH conversion kit from tasautoparts today. The hub and the bearings are already pressed together, also got the cross drilled rotors with it. I can't wait to put em on </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow. Everything already pressed together. How much was the total cost for everything?

h22accord723

It was about $354.00 can't remember what the shipping charges were. just go to their website it's tasautoparts.com . You can browse the site. They have a lot of cool stuff. good luck hope you find what you need.

NGUSPEED

Wow! I wish I found this about 3weeks ago. This would have been alot easier.

nukem384

this is a great write up again! so i also got all my parts, ended up having to get a new bearing and hub assembly. the removal of the old hub/bearing/rotor is easy, my question and problem is that the new hub doesn't want to slide through the drive shaft splines. it will go in around half way and then get stuck. is this supposed to happen? are there any special tricks to get it through? tried to get the rust off, sprayed wd-40 on there, but no luck. i tried for quite a while, but was just trying to use brute force, which wasn't working. help!

NGUSPEED

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TASAuto.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes you can use 98-02 4cyl rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

I used the 98-02 4cyl Accord Rotors and they work!

I would not advise using the 98-02 Accord Hub though. I didnt try it, but a member on an alternate forum stated it doesnt work.