motormanSR

hey guys... i ahve a couple of things that i need to get done to my 95 accourd ex (F22b1). i wanted to get you opinion on whether or not i should just take my morot out and do them...
1) clutch is worn..time for new disc
2) timing belt change due
3)find oil leak coming from back of motor
4) flush engine

mmy motor has 231k miles on it and i want to put another 231k 0n it..so i am thinking that it's about time to redo some of those seals. for certain my valve cover seal is going so i need to change that.i am hoping that the oil leak is not from a comre plug. if i took the motor i could do a semi-rebuild ( valve stem seals and the like) i have noticed a slight loss in power and i this this would do the job....this is not about doing somethign that does not need to be done....it's just that there is allot to be done but i think i should go a little futher...it may take a whole weekend but think of the benefits....
thanks in advance

EuRoBrO

Dood you could save yourself a whole lot of trouble and just buy another motor. I think you can get a F22B2 for like $350-$450 depending on miles and such. But its understandable if you want to redo your motor and KNOW that it's reliable and done right. Just a suggestion, good luck!

motormanSR

i don't want to get another motor, my motor is fine...i know that some of you are gonna suggest a engine swap so i am just killing that idea now...just looking for osme feedback.

i.e. to the engine swap finatics and fans....forget the idea!!

TouringAccord

Why would he want to swap to a B2? You can find a cheap B1 as well but then you don't know the condition of it.

As for removing the engine to do all that work. I sorta did the same thing a year ago but I had more work to do. I hit a curb over the winter and tore the subframe. I was going to replace the bent suspension parts, timing belt, clutch, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, valve adjustment, fuel filter, brake job, ect. So I decided it was going to be easier to remove the engine and do all the work with the engine out. I'm very happy with how everything went. I didn't have to worry about supporting the motor to do the clutch, timing belt or subframe. I had all the room in the world to do the timing belt. Made it much easier to remove the fuel filter and lines from the steering rack when replacing the suframe. And just threw the new clutch and flywheel in when I put the motor back in.

It's really up to you. The time you save by pulling the motor out will be sucked up by the time it takes to remove and install the motor. It might even take you longer to remove and install the motor than it would to just do everthing with it in there.

motormanSR

i think it will save me a whole lot of head ache time too...i remember doing my feul filter..that was one of the most frustrating things i have ever had to do, but it tought me a lesson...i am going to change my transmission fluid today... i will take a pic of that oil leak so you can see what i was talking about

jmal1919

u should pull the motor. not only will you save time, but you will be able to inpsect everything easily and ensure that if any thing is questionable, ur can replace it and get another 200k out of it.

tjohnson329

listen i can understand that youdon't want to get a new motor but you need to realize that the oil leak you have in your motor by the way you described it is coming from the balancershaft seal. there was a recall on it and it is a major leak. honsestly I wouldn't pull the engine i would try hard has hell to do all the work with the engine in. By the way it sounds to me you don't race and don't need any special clutch. If i was going to do anything i would just change the motor in all. $400 dollars from the junk yard and 9/10 it is a good motor. you should just do that it makes more sense then spending all that money on a clutch and the rest of that stuuf. but it is up to you so good luck with whateve you do.

ruah_23

Since you are gonna remove the engine,Why don't you rebuild it..New pistons,rings,valves ect ect.After you did this, I'm sure u can run for another 231k miles.

I have 220k miles on my b1 too...But, I'm rebuilding the h engine in my garage though.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tjohnson329 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">listen i can understand that youdon't want to get a new motor but you need to realize that the oil leak you have in your motor by the way you described it is coming from the balancershaft seal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think thats the problem. If it were from the balancer shaft seal the leak would be coming from the front driver side of the motor. And by the way he says it, it seems to me like it is a minor leak. The balancer shaft seal would dump all the oil within minutes. So if he said something like the car just suddenly dumped a lot of oil then I would agree. But I don't think that is his problem. In any case though, it's not a bad thing to check and make sure that it was done. If not the part costs like $3 from the dealer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tjohnson329 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If i was going to do anything i would just change the motor in all. $400 dollars from the junk yard and 9/10 it is a good motor. you should just do that it makes more sense then spending all that money on a clutch and the rest of that stuuf.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, but I have to disagree. You can't say that 9/10 motors from a junkyard are going to be good. You don't know how the previous owner took care of the car. You might be able to buy a used motor and new clutch for less than a rebiuld but then you have an unknow motor. You don't know the condition of the gaskets, seals, internals. At least with his current motor he knows the condition and then if he does rebuild it it'll be good to go for many miles. While that used motor might only last a year.

Thats just my $.02 though.

BlazeTeck2000

492,136 on my 90 accord and did take it out and put new seals but no rebuilt on it cause i want to see how far this engine can go .. i have another one waiting to be put in that i paid $250 at a junk yard (NYC)

Tad

well I havent done any work on accord chassis,
so maybe things are more crammed in your engine bay than in my civic.

but going on what you said you need to do in your first post. NO you really have no need to pull the whole motor, you'd be causing yourself way more grief doing that.
No pulling motors isnt that hard, but there is really a shitload of stuff you have to unplug/unbolt, then put back together when it goes back in.

it all adds up and imo overshadows the benifits of avoiding working on the motor while its installed in the engine bay.

timing belt changes are really cake once you've done it on that particular car before.
Usually the problem with them is that you have to get that darned crank off, and if its the first time, its been torqued on there with 150ft/lbs for who knows how many years!!

TouringAccord

I have a Civic now and a 95 Accord EX before and the engine bays on the Civics are much more open than an Accord. You have so much extra room to move around in a Civic in comparison to an Accord. But you still have enough room to move around in the Accord chassis, it's just more confined thats all.

If my Accord wasn't totalled and stripped I would take comparison pictures but that kinda impossible now.

motormanSR

here is one of the pictures i took of the oil leak .. this one if from the from close to the distributor....i am guess that you can see two leaks in this pic..one from the valve cover seal, and the other from the dristributor O-ring..
gimme some feed back....
i think i might have to consider an over-haul

motormanSR

here is the other image from the back...there is a better view from under the car but i was not able to get the floor jack..any idea where this leak is comign from?... the valvover above the leak is dry so i know it's not there

Tad

oil leak looks like its coming from the valve cover gasket to me man.

thats super easy,
just pull the valve cover off, examine the gasket,
if it looks bad, replace it with a new one. clean ur engine bay and watch for new leaks

TOAB

pull the motor or get a few jacks and jackstands and drag that bitch out the bottom. i did my clutch a few months ago and left motor in and it sucked *****... i had to disconnect a couple of mounts anyway. it was a pain in the ***.

motormanSR

Tad,
i am sure that the oil leak in the second picture is not coming from the valve cover..as i said when i posted it " that side of the valve cover is clean and dry".. the oil is coming from something beleow and to the left of the valve cover (looking from the back)<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlazeTeck2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">492,136 on my 90 accord and did take it out and put new seals but no rebuilt on it cause i want to see how far this engine can go .. i have another one waiting to be put in that i paid $250 at a junk yard (NYC)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Blaze...what seal did you replace? can you give me a break down