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Code 1457, EVAP system fix
#26
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
I am having this same issue code 1457 for a month now (less than 1000 KMS) and the mechanic checked the car but said its okay to continue driving as no code had come up for them. I understand many have said it can fry the ecm/pcm but at how many kms of driving with this code be too much? This is the second time the light came on within a month.
#27
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/anyone-have-autotap-odb2-scanning-tool-they-would-let-me-hook-up-use-ny-nj-748876/
scroll down to post 14 and run the tests
scroll down to post 14 and run the tests
#28
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
the light came up again after driving like under 20 KMS (~7 Mi)
Im a newbie not too confident in mechanical skills unfortunately. I think i am going to just buy a canister vent shut valve OEM online and get it installed and see what happens.
Im a newbie not too confident in mechanical skills unfortunately. I think i am going to just buy a canister vent shut valve OEM online and get it installed and see what happens.
#29
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
Diagnostics vs. selective parts replacement:
I'm trying to get a 2000 Civic EX Coupe (1.6 SOHC) into shape. Translation: Pass state inspection. 137k miles.
First problem was "not ready" codes on the OBD II scan. I replaced the front O2 sensor (very bad condition--looks original) and changed the plugs (badly worn) and thermostat (wouldn't open). Still got non-ready codes until I hit upon a post that talked about the "backup memory" fuse. It reminded me that I had problems with the memory wire on my stereo installation, and sure enough, they are on the same fuse.
After "cycling" the ECU, I am getting OK signals on all of the sensors, but now have two error codes. One is for the rear O2 (CAT) sensor--makes sense that I'd need to replace that since the front one was bad, also.
The other is the P1457. In summary, what I've read here is that it could be (in order of likelihood) the Purge Valve/Sensor, the EVAP canister, or a bad gas cap.
So here's the question. Do I pay a mechanic big bucks to properly diagnose the system and find the bad part and replace it? Or, do I replace part by part until the MIL codes go away? I could end up spending 200-250 in parts. On the other hand, I might spend 250 just for the diagnostics.
I know that the right way to do things is to find the one bad part and replace it. But it seems like a more expensive way to do it, even if I have to replace every possible part.
Thoughts?
I'm trying to get a 2000 Civic EX Coupe (1.6 SOHC) into shape. Translation: Pass state inspection. 137k miles.
First problem was "not ready" codes on the OBD II scan. I replaced the front O2 sensor (very bad condition--looks original) and changed the plugs (badly worn) and thermostat (wouldn't open). Still got non-ready codes until I hit upon a post that talked about the "backup memory" fuse. It reminded me that I had problems with the memory wire on my stereo installation, and sure enough, they are on the same fuse.
After "cycling" the ECU, I am getting OK signals on all of the sensors, but now have two error codes. One is for the rear O2 (CAT) sensor--makes sense that I'd need to replace that since the front one was bad, also.
The other is the P1457. In summary, what I've read here is that it could be (in order of likelihood) the Purge Valve/Sensor, the EVAP canister, or a bad gas cap.
So here's the question. Do I pay a mechanic big bucks to properly diagnose the system and find the bad part and replace it? Or, do I replace part by part until the MIL codes go away? I could end up spending 200-250 in parts. On the other hand, I might spend 250 just for the diagnostics.
I know that the right way to do things is to find the one bad part and replace it. But it seems like a more expensive way to do it, even if I have to replace every possible part.
Thoughts?
#30
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
I have the 2002 accord and after much research and reading i have noticed many people with 99 98 accords have the canister vent shut valve to change while 2002 gotta change the by pass solenoid . I myself recently purchased the bypass solenoid and the 2 way bypasss valve BEFORE diagnostics as its is expensive to check every single part for that long. Im hoping these two pars will fix my problem and will update when i get them home and installed.
Keep in mind it wont be a gas tank issue as 1456 tend to be loose gas cap related. Another way to confirm is when you loosen your gas cap just listen for the hiss. If you hear alotta HISS its sealed tight when normally tightened
Keep in mind it wont be a gas tank issue as 1456 tend to be loose gas cap related. Another way to confirm is when you loosen your gas cap just listen for the hiss. If you hear alotta HISS its sealed tight when normally tightened
#33
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
I ended up installing a new bypass valve (old one seemed to have fuel in it :S and was alot heavier than new OEM one) and bypass solenoid since i noticed many 2002 models had these as issues as opposed to the canister vent shut valve. But whlie going for the solenoids i noticed my canister vent shut looking pretty bad. Damnnnn. anyways gotta wait and hope for best.
I wanna know does changing the bypasss solenoid and bypass valve cause the car to run smoother and more of a pick up/being faster. Or is it just me noticing this?
#34
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
UPDATE:
I replaced the canister purge valve (I get very confused with the names of these, but this is the one that sits on the canister, as opposed to the one on the fuel rail). Reset the ECU and it cleared the P1457 code. But now I'm getting a P1456. Tried the obvious--new gas cap, but I'm still getting a "pending P1456" and the EVAP is still "not ready" on the OBD2 reader.
I think I'm going to break down and take it to a good mechanic next week. The only parts left to change are the Evap Canister itself or the solenoid valve on the fuel rail, and they are both well over $100. No sense spending 250 and still not fixing it, since there could be a leak anywhere from the filler tube to the gas tank to the underhood hoses and connectors. I just hope I don't get ripped off too much for the smoke test and diagnostics.
I replaced the canister purge valve (I get very confused with the names of these, but this is the one that sits on the canister, as opposed to the one on the fuel rail). Reset the ECU and it cleared the P1457 code. But now I'm getting a P1456. Tried the obvious--new gas cap, but I'm still getting a "pending P1456" and the EVAP is still "not ready" on the OBD2 reader.
I think I'm going to break down and take it to a good mechanic next week. The only parts left to change are the Evap Canister itself or the solenoid valve on the fuel rail, and they are both well over $100. No sense spending 250 and still not fixing it, since there could be a leak anywhere from the filler tube to the gas tank to the underhood hoses and connectors. I just hope I don't get ripped off too much for the smoke test and diagnostics.
#35
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
I ended up installing a new bypass valve (old one seemed to have fuel in it :S and was alot heavier than new OEM one) and bypass solenoid since i noticed many 2002 models had these as issues as opposed to the canister vent shut valve. But whlie going for the solenoids i noticed my canister vent shut looking pretty bad. Damnnnn. anyways gotta wait and hope for best.
I wanna know does changing the bypasss solenoid and bypass valve cause the car to run smoother and more of a pick up/being faster. Or is it just me noticing this?
Last edited by tech8; 07-12-2022 at 10:26 AM. Reason: spam hack deleted
#36
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
Replaced the CVS to cure a P1457 in a 2000 Accord SE with 187,xxx. Bought the CVS a while ago from ebay for around $45-$50, so long ago I can't even remember the exact price. Removed the lower screw with vice grips. The top one is impossible to get to with the whole canister on the car. Remove it and locked it down on a workbench. The top screw STILL won't come off with various vice grips. It turns but it won't back out. Eventually got the screw out along with the rubber insert. Used the other screw slot to tie the new CVS to the canister.
So far the CEL has not come back, have my fingers crossed.
So far the CEL has not come back, have my fingers crossed.
#37
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
The canister vent shut valve or the EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve could be the problem, as the culprits easily get corroded in geographic locations that use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Honda had to redesign the parts to address this problem.
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Eagleman
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Eagleman
#38
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
Dear Eagleman
I have P1457 code on my 2003 Honda Odyssey. Would it be possible for you to send me some of the diagrams for the EVAP system so I can get a better look at the components?
Sincerely
Chris
chrislopak@yahoo.ca
I have P1457 code on my 2003 Honda Odyssey. Would it be possible for you to send me some of the diagrams for the EVAP system so I can get a better look at the components?
Sincerely
Chris
chrislopak@yahoo.ca
#39
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
Please send me, or better yet, post in the forum with link to download for others to benifit, the evap diagrams for 1457 issue. I have Honda van 2001 with 106,000 miles. Is this can be fixed by Honda dealer under warranty?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#40
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
A innova scan tool i have, u can activate the canister vent valve for testing the system with a evap smoke machine. but i used to check to see if the valve working.
this is on my 2000 Honda prelude base model with a h22a4
i finally fixed my code p1456 is was the evap line that runs right next to the gas lines in the back right under the LR tire. the line rusted so bad there was just piece of rust holding the line together. i tapped it with my finger and the line broke.
the line rotted right where the factory line covering stopped. so if any of u live in new england and having p1456 check your rear evap line that runs to the front of the car. or could be your filler neck or the two evap lines that run to the top of the filler neck.
#41
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
I just wanted to post my fix for the 1457 code since I see mixed ideas about what causes it when I searched. Hopefully it helps anyone that may run into the same problem and searches here.
My first thing I did was replace the gas cap since its cheap and too easy, and I see people say that the gas cap would not throw 1457 but instead throw 1456 but I had 1457 and I replaced the cap and passed the OBD2 smog test and the code is still off.
My first thing I did was replace the gas cap since its cheap and too easy, and I see people say that the gas cap would not throw 1457 but instead throw 1456 but I had 1457 and I replaced the cap and passed the OBD2 smog test and the code is still off.
I got the same 2 codes did the same thing. Was looking in other forums and actually going to Napa the verdict is that the 1457 code is for the fuel evap control valve leakage. Gotta get a new module my 2001 civic is located right by the rear suspension on the passenger side of the fuel canister. Also the 1456 code is for the fuel filler neck. It's an easy fix just gotta replace the old one bc Hondas are known to corrode
#42
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
I had this 1457 and 1456 code for almost two years on my Honda Oddyssey 2001. I was due for a smoge check so I took to a mechanic and he did some fix to the filler neck gasket. The gas cap was new from Honda. It did not help as the light came back within 40-50 miles. I checked with a co-worker and he suggested that I check the tubes in the canister area. So I went under and wiggled around all the connections and also the electrical ones. Cleared the code and drove for almost 150 miles and no light. Checked OBD2 and it said ready for smog. Took to the shop and it passed with flying colors. Since that I have driven almost 300 more miles and no light so far. My co-worker says that some time the electrical connections get loose and cause this. So he suggested to use conductive lubricant on all connectors. I will do that soon anyway.
I hope this will help others.
I hope this will help others.
#44
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
The canister vent shut valve or the EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve could be the problem, as the culprits easily get corroded in geographic locations that use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Honda had to redesign the parts to address this problem.
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Eagleman
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Eagleman
#45
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
#48
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
Didn't think so on top of the small leak some were up there I think my lack of power stems from a failing pump as I said in the other thread its the original one and bolts are rusted onto the tank but id wager to say it is the pump
#49
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
The canister vent shut valve or the EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve could be the problem, as the culprits easily get corroded in geographic locations that use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Honda had to redesign the parts to address this problem.
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Eagleman
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Eagleman
#50
Re: Code 1457, EVAP system fix
The canister vent shut valve or the EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve could be the problem, as the culprits easily get corroded in geographic locations that use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Honda had to redesign the parts to address this problem.
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Eagleman
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Eagleman
Can I have a copy of the bulletins for a 2001 Civic? Thanks.