Changing brake caliper
08-15-2011, 02:41 AM
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Changing brake caliper
I have a 94 accord wagon and one of the rear calipers is locked up. I have a new caliper and pads that I need to put on. I've never done a caliper before. Does anyone have aDIY? How difficult is it? Thanks
08-15-2011, 03:17 AM
#2
Re: Changing brake caliper
Put some kind of canister or jug under the caliper area to catch brake fluid. Take a pair of vice grips and close/crimp it off just above the brake line where you're going to be taking it off before you open the caliper line. You wanna do this to reduce the amount of fluid coming out of the brake line when you open the line up. Then just take it off, should be a 14mm I think. Put the new one on, close it up really good and tight. Then bleed the brakes. Test really good while checking for leaks before you try to test drive.
08-15-2011, 04:41 AM
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Re: Changing brake caliper
Yeah I'm good on the pads. Thanks. So it is just disconnecting the brake line and the 2 bolts on back and it slides off?
08-15-2011, 12:29 PM
#5
Re: Changing brake caliper
To get the brake line off the caliper it just has a bolt with two crush washers on it like the ones you see on the fuel filter but bigger. They say to replace the crush washers whenever you change the caliper but it is possible sometimes to reuse them. Just make sure you do lots of checking and testing because fluid will leak there if it doesn't seal all the way.
08-15-2011, 08:56 PM
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Re: Changing brake caliper
first off make sure you bleed the new caliper correctly after everything is back together-yes you will need a second person to make sure its done right.
second when crimping off the hose with vice grips make sure to use a good amount of paper towel or a shop towel between the hose and the vise grip to make sure the vise grip doesn't damage the hose.
third to remove the old one you only need to remove the caliper not the bracket it sits on. there are two 14mm bolts holding the caliper onto the calipe bracket loosen them and pull em out. they are pretty long. the caliper will slide right off the rotor at this point.
now the pads will easily slide off the rotor/caliper bracket and new pads can be installed. make sure to get some pad grease and apply as instructed
the new caliper will slide right onto the newly installed pads. a large c clamp or large adjustable pliers can be used to press in the piston of the new caliper if it is sticking out too much to slide back onto the rotor smoothly.
***to bleed the caliper have a person in the drivers seat and a person at the caliper. make sure the fluid in the brake reservoir is overfilled but not overflowing. find the bleeder valve and an 8mm or 10mm wrench whichever one yours is. there are two ways to do this one is messy but easier and one is clean but harder. i highly suggest you use the cleaner but harder method since you are replacing a part of the brake system which means you will definitely have air in the brake line
i only use the messy but easy method when just replacing the brake fluid and do not suggest it for use after replacing anything that contains brake fluid because this means you have introduced air into the line. so in this case i would tell you to use the second method
1.messy but easy: put something under the caliper area to catch fluid. push the brake pedal down and hold it there. open the valve while still holding the pedal down. close the valve. pull the pedal back up and push it back down holding it down. open the valve with the pedal still down. close the valve. pull the pedal back up. do this like two times exactly the way it was typed and then check the fluid reservoir and refill it back to the top. continue bleeding until the brakes feel good.
2.clean but hard: <---this method is preferred among mechanics and is the way honda would prefer you to do it
to save me typing you use the same method as above but you will need a few more materials. get a clear small container and fill it with brake fluid. you will also need a clear hose to run from the valve to the container. the hose must remain submerged in the fluid the entire time. the hose also remains on the valve the entire time. like above pump the brake down and hold it there. open the valve by hand with the hose on. you will see fluid/air/bubbles going from the valve through the hose to the container. continue the bleeding process until there is no more air coming through the line. this method is the best because it allows you to see through the hose if there is any air coming from the line still. air is a big no no.
second when crimping off the hose with vice grips make sure to use a good amount of paper towel or a shop towel between the hose and the vise grip to make sure the vise grip doesn't damage the hose.
third to remove the old one you only need to remove the caliper not the bracket it sits on. there are two 14mm bolts holding the caliper onto the calipe bracket loosen them and pull em out. they are pretty long. the caliper will slide right off the rotor at this point.
now the pads will easily slide off the rotor/caliper bracket and new pads can be installed. make sure to get some pad grease and apply as instructed
the new caliper will slide right onto the newly installed pads. a large c clamp or large adjustable pliers can be used to press in the piston of the new caliper if it is sticking out too much to slide back onto the rotor smoothly.
***to bleed the caliper have a person in the drivers seat and a person at the caliper. make sure the fluid in the brake reservoir is overfilled but not overflowing. find the bleeder valve and an 8mm or 10mm wrench whichever one yours is. there are two ways to do this one is messy but easier and one is clean but harder. i highly suggest you use the cleaner but harder method since you are replacing a part of the brake system which means you will definitely have air in the brake line
i only use the messy but easy method when just replacing the brake fluid and do not suggest it for use after replacing anything that contains brake fluid because this means you have introduced air into the line. so in this case i would tell you to use the second method
1.messy but easy: put something under the caliper area to catch fluid. push the brake pedal down and hold it there. open the valve while still holding the pedal down. close the valve. pull the pedal back up and push it back down holding it down. open the valve with the pedal still down. close the valve. pull the pedal back up. do this like two times exactly the way it was typed and then check the fluid reservoir and refill it back to the top. continue bleeding until the brakes feel good.
2.clean but hard: <---this method is preferred among mechanics and is the way honda would prefer you to do it
to save me typing you use the same method as above but you will need a few more materials. get a clear small container and fill it with brake fluid. you will also need a clear hose to run from the valve to the container. the hose must remain submerged in the fluid the entire time. the hose also remains on the valve the entire time. like above pump the brake down and hold it there. open the valve by hand with the hose on. you will see fluid/air/bubbles going from the valve through the hose to the container. continue the bleeding process until there is no more air coming through the line. this method is the best because it allows you to see through the hose if there is any air coming from the line still. air is a big no no.
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