S2KILLA

Just checked the codes on my moms 2001 accord ex 2.3L with ULEV and these 2 popped up. I know its the primary or upstream O2 sensor. Before I got out and spend the money on a new one, is there a way to check it to see if its def crapped out? Thanks for the help.

sgraham01

those codes are for the o2 heater circuit and usually indicate a broken connection in the heating element circuit in the sensor. Check the wiring to make sure there are no loose or broken wires. if not, you will need to check the heating circuit in the sensor with an ohmeter to see if the heater is indeed bad. unplug the sensor with it still attached to the exhaust and test it. you'll need to know which two wires on the sensor control the heating element with a connector diagram or maybe ask a dealer if they'll tell you the colors, then check the resistance through those two wires. if the resistance is very high or there is no continuity, replace the sensor, then clear the code if it doesn't go off on its own.

S2KILLA

Sounds good... Ill see if the wires have a broken connection... If thats the case how should I repair the 2 wires??? Solder and high temp tape??? If thats not the case Ill search for a diagram for the 2 wires to check... I really hope its something stupid... these things retail for $220... ****in A cotton...

sgraham01

if there is just a cut wire, then you can simply butt splice it since it's not a signal circuit. The butt connector should not melt unless it touches the exhaust.

Honestly, having a bad heater circuit isn't hurting anything, so if you want to ignore it, it won't cause any problems. it just warms up the sensor so that it starts reading the o2 content sooner. if you want to keep the CEL off, you can bypass the heater in the o2 sensor and splice in a resistor of the same Ohm rating as the heating element. This will make the ECM think the heater is good, and you won't be out so much money. if you can find the resistance spec in a repair manual (along with the o2 sensor wiring diagram), you can buy a resistor from an electonic supplier and make it work. make sure it can withstand underhood temps. shoot for 300 degrees to be safe.

S2KILLA

found:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ighlight=P1167

S2KILLA

yeah, but she failed inspection at the DMV...

sgraham01

it should pass inspection if you clear the code, splice in a resistor, run it for several drive cycles to clear any pending codes. then once all the monitors have run, it should be fine. We don't have emissions tests here in MS, but I doubt they check emissions until the car is at operating temp, which would allow the car to check out okay. even with o2 heaters working properly, the car will be running rich when it is cold. some cars don't have o2 heaters, and they have to be inspected too, so you shouldn't have to have them either.

S2KILLA

cool man... thanks for everything... ill let you know how it goes...

sgraham01

yeah, let me know. I'm curious.