holmesnmanny

Another thing you can do is take off the ecu cover and take a good close look at it and see if anything appears to be burned.

wwolf771177

I made a video...will post when I get home

wwolf771177

wwolf771177

Bump...

holmesnmanny

lol your video is set to private. You can watch it, but others can't. :/

brakedrum

All of the times that my 93 Accord has acted the way yours is (random cutting off while driving) it was always the Ignition Control Module (Ignitor). In your pictures, the Ignitor is in the 4th picture from top.. small module with four wires coming from it. It's not only responsible for producing sufficient spark to get the engine started, but also sufficient spark to keep it running. There is a testing procedure for the Ignitor (multimeter required) that is in Haynes and probably other repair manuals.

holmesnmanny

When I did my very first compression test I failed to disable spark and upon doing the next one my ignitor blew when I tried starting my car. It idled for about five seconds then I heard it die. When I pulled the distributor cap there was white film all over. I replaced the coil first and that didn't fix it, and when I replaced the ignitor that fixed it. These things can not only die intermittently but can fail outright as well.

wwolf771177

Sorry about that...I just changed it to public

brakedrum

To me, the ignitor is the weak point in the ignition system on older Hondas. I'm not even sure it's a robust enough part for the load it has to carry. I know it doesn't like to be pushed too hard. Two springs ago, I fouled my ignitor with about 8 seconds of extremely rapid, extremely hard acceleration. In other words, I punched it. The engine cut off immediately after I came out of the throttle and continued to cut off randomly until days later when I narrowed it down to the ignitor. It's a small part that is pretty much the heart of the ignition system.

wwolf771177

Just got a junkyard distributor...wish me luck =/

holmesnmanny

make sure to make a mark of some sort across the distributor and cylinder head so that you can put the jy distributor as close as possible if you don't have access to a timing gun at the moment. transfer the mark on the other distributor to the jy one

ReaperMan

its the knock sensor or the cam sensor can't remember which is which its been a while since ive actually replaced individual parts in these cars. if one thing failed another is soon to fail. and $300 for a NEW dizzy with cap and rotor is a deal. anyways. there is a screw missing from it. im pretty sure it moves when you brake or try to start it. the signal is not steady. might wan't to look into that and see if you can fix it by putting another screw in that place to hold it down.

holmesnmanny

he doesn't have a knock sensor

wwolf771177

Yeah I made a mark across the distributor so I wont lose timing. I drove for like an hour and its been good. But the testing isnt over. I gotta see later on and tomorrow. If the car stays on then problem solved....finally (knocks on wood)

ReaperMan

the "knock" sensor is located inside the distributor housing. would you like me to show you on my repair manual ? ?? you know what i won't even ask. im doing so

holmesnmanny

sure, lemme see that knock sensor

holmesnmanny

Ok, I finally got around to glancing your vids and it's clear that your check engine light is coming on before the thing stalls...unless I'm seeing things. You need to pull that code as it could be the key to your problems.

ReaperMan

ReaperMan

holmesnmanny

I'm not seeing a knock sensor anywhere in that diagram. Also, he has the b2 motor but that is irrelevant with regards to the knock sensor anyhow since neither engine has one.

ReaperMan

im guessing you are blind if you can't see it. it is inside the distributor it labels as is *top dead center, crankshaft position, cylinder position,(tdc /ckp,cyp) sensor* there are two magnetic sensors inside. one for the cam one for the cranks. check the haynes manual as well. it shows you how to test both of them. if you want to call them knock sensors.

l1coeea9

How did that work out?

holmesnmanny

Those aren't knock sensors. A knock sensor is mounted/threaded in the engine block and the only function is to detect engine knock or ping.

This is an example.

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts...sub-cord-clamp

part number 1

This is what it looks like.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search


here's some information

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

ReaperMan

hahaha. dude you have no idea then. and you call your self a honda-tech hahahaha. and guess what that picture i pulled up is for the EXACT!!!! year and model of the op. those black sensors inside the distributor are the sensors. cam. crank. and cylinder position sensors. its hard to believe but its true. you can decide to believe me or not, but if you were to take out the ckp sensor out of that distributor which is the ckp car will not run. check you're Haynes Manuel as well for testing all the insides of the distributor you will see it even says knock sensor ckp on there

ReaperMan