Originally Posted by 75aces
Can someone help me with the socket size and what additional tools? This is going to be my first attempt and hopefully will be a smooth job. Also want to know if it is a straight forward swap or something additional needed for the engine side of the axle. Thanks.
36mm and a breaker bar. If it was installed correctly, meaning not by and over zealous cudgel with an affinity to maxing out the 3/4" drive impact gun, a 1/2" breaker bar should do. You might need a cheater bar to gain some more leverage.
A large flat head screw driver, flat bar, or crow bar for the inner joint.
A small cold chisel for unstaking/staking the axle nuts.
Large hammer or single jack(mini sledge)
Jack stands and floor jack.
10, 12, 14, 17 mm wrenches are going to be your friends.
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nuts
Loosen front lug nuts.
Jack front of car up and place on jackstands
Pop the inboard joints of the axles, avoid damaging the seal.
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove cotter pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Flip and reinstall it so it is flush with the bottom of the stud.
Using a floor jack, place the cup directly under the inverted nut and jack the arm up via the nut. It should pop free, you may need to strike the lower control arm with a hammer with a stubborn stud.
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.
Installation is the reverse. For added protection of the inner boot as you slide it through the fork, use a plastic grocery bag. It will help slide the axle through the fork.