erniecars

My wife was driving our 98 accord V6, and she said the car would slip out of gear and since she didnt take her foot off the gar, the tach would run up to like 7k, then it would pop back into gear and she would take off flying!

So she pulled over and when I got to her, i tried to start the car but it wouldnt turn over. Starter just clicked. After getting it home, I was able to jump start it but it ran pretty rough, nearly dying if i rolled down the power windows or pressed on teh brake pedal. I didnt try to drive it around. Also, there is a loud whirring noise coming from the around the alternator p/s a/c belts... I let it run for 20 min to see if it was charging ok.

Once I turned off the car, the battery was more dead than ever. I couldnt even get the doors to lock.

Its really hard to tell where the whirring is coming from but its certainly from that side of the motor. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. I dont know whether to swap the alternator, battery, or just take it to a tranny shop.

sony224422

well first thing first. Either get a voltmeter or take the battery into advanced auto and have it load tested (free). Its more likely your battery than you're alternator.


The tranny thing, i know there was a problem with the trannys from the 6th gen accord, but i forgot if it effects the i-4's or v6's.

YeuEmMaiMai

did the battery light come on when the car was idling? If so, the alt is toast. Delphi POS rarely lasts 100K (I replaced mine at 97K) I would also put a new battery in it as they usually get toasted when the alt fails or shortly there after.

a bad alt would also cause the trans not to hold a gear if the solenoids are not able to operate properly. Most likely the trans may have issues though...........

erniecars

Thanks for your replies!

No charge/battery light or any odd lights at all.

The car has about 115k on it. The transmission has been pretty solid so it seems odd that it would just crap out. I should also mention that the whirring from the alternator area has been happening for about 2 weeks and its totally not a normal sound, but I dont know how to pinpoint what is it coming from. I could take the belt off the p/s i suppose.

The battery is an optima red top, maybe kinda old but its been solid too.

The fact that the car runs like garbage and nearly dies when I press the brake, roll down the window, or turn on the head lights makes me think the alternator is bad since the battery wouldnt necessarily be causing such a big problem if the car is running.

Anyone else have an idea? I also think maybe the lack of power from a bad alternator would possibly cause the tranny solenoids to release, but thats pure speculation. Ive never known of such a problem before.

It just seems like too much of a coincidence that the tranny would have these issues at the same time that I cant get the battery to charge any more.

sony224422

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erniecars &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The battery is an optima red top, maybe kinda old but its been solid too.

Optimas are known to die, but they do have a 3 year warranty i believe.

The fact that the car runs like garbage and nearly dies when I press the brake, roll down the window, or turn on the head lights makes me think the alternator is bad since the battery wouldnt necessarily be causing such a big problem if the car is running.


Thats not true. A battery acts as a filter for the alternator. You can't run a car without a battery, nor with one thats completely dead. Take out the battery, and put it in your car. I will bet it does the same thing. And how come she has a red top? What was wrong with going with a stock one, JW.
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erniecars

Ok, I found my Multimeter. I have 8.8V at the battery with the car off. I jumped the car and while runnning I still have 8.8V at the battery, and at the power from the alternator (tested at the fuse box) So then I threw caution to the wind and pulled the positive from the battery, and the car died instantly. So I guess I'll be shopping for a new alternator...

So OEM or what? Looks like I'll spend about $250+ on an oem alternator. Is it worth it?

sony224422

have the battery load tested too. Just because its so low, it might have been completely killed.

I think you can take the alternator in too to have it tested. Both of them are free so you might want to consider it.

But, if you have to get a new one, maybe get a H/O (high output) alternator, so it won't kick on as a much. I think it should be about the same price. check http://www.4alterstart.com

nikestar4

i had the same problem, it had something to do with the alternator. got it fixed and worked fine.

streetxdreamer

your alternator is done, you will have to replace it

RotaryBzzzz

Auto trannies will drive all jacked up with insufficient voltage to the transmission's actuator solinoids. What brand is your alternator? The AC-Delco or Bosch crap that went in when Honda partnered with GM is utter crap.

If your alteranator tests bad, you're much better going with a used Denso (OEM japanese) unit. You can find them for about 40-80 bucks used. They're very easy to self-install as well....a novice with a few hand tools can swap an accord's alternator in about 1.5 hrs...no special tools required.

outlawcry7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erniecars &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I found my Multimeter. I have 8.8V at the battery with the car off. I jumped the car and while runnning I still have 8.8V at the battery, and at the power from the alternator (tested at the fuse box) So then I threw caution to the wind and pulled the positive from the battery, and the car died instantly. So I guess I'll be shopping for a new alternator...
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dont do that. that can mess up the voltage regulator.