gianinline

Hello guys, i've done a search, and came up with very, very little information on it. I've also searched google, but only to find out why a car may be on limp mode.

so, my car is a 1997 accord, EX, with the F22B1 engine, the original computer was OBD2, but, i already have an OBD1 modified ECU to run on the car, along with the jumper harness.

The engine has been completelly redone, from internals to fuel delivery.
Basically, the ECU is throwing a few codes, and my radiator fans won't turn on, it's pretty frustrating. When i'm driving the car, or if i'm in neutral, the engine won't rev pass 3k rpms, and if i'm stopped somewhere for more than 5 minutes without moving, the engine gets hot, and the fans will not turn on. I also noticed that i had got 4 miles per gallon since this happened.
The codes were for:

Crank position sensor
secondary oxygen sensor
malfunction air fuel control (or something like that... i don't remember exactly)

Basically, i'm running not tuned yet, with 310cc injectors, walbro 255lph pump, aem high flow fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. The header is a 4-1, with a random technology cat, there's only one oxygen sensor, which is located at the bottom of the header, and the second oxygen sensor has been disconected.

How can I fix the problem?! Let me just mention that i've also advanced the cam gear 5 degrees and this has helped with the constant backfires, but still lots of backfires going on.
I've done the timing belt myself, i did it very carefully, but i'm thinking now, what if i didn't have things 100% ligned up when doing it... could that have caused the crank sensor to go bad or something?!
Why would the crank sensor go bad?
Is there anything i can do to void the secondary oxygen sensor?? i mean... will i "really" have to have that welded on my exhaust?
What about the problem with the fuel misture... am i going to need to put the old injectors in to avoid such a rich mixture?!

Please guys... give a little help here. I need to fix this as soon as possible!
thanks in advance!

TheMuffnMan

gian, I'd imagine with the 2nd O2 sensor you could have it disabled via software OR just have a bung welded on. I don't think there's a way around that.

The O2 and the air/fuel are most likely the cause of the horrible mpg (lol yeah that bad).

The fans coming on could be a couple things. I'd probably trouble shoot them like if they weren't coming on with a normal F22B1. Check the tstat, check their connections, make sure they're working (hook them to the battery), the relay, etc.

I can't commment on that CPS cel because I haven't had enough experience with it. Did you redo the wiring on the engine bay too? It's possible there's a key ground or something along those lines not there. (Either covered in paint or not connected)

gianinline

I know that the fans work, because i've tested them straight to the battery. One guy said that on my fuse box, the relay/fuse for the fans was really hot... i don't even understand why....

gianinline

I will see if i can pull the motor out tomorrow and have a real good look on it. Since i have a spare engine on the side, i think i'm just going to use the CPS from that motor as well.

Let me also bump this to see if i can get some more info about this issue!

gianinline

bump...

Bird333

I assume you have a Helms manual. I would run down the troubleshooting steps for each code. Are you sure that your OBD2>OBD1 conversion harness wires your CPS to the right location on your ecu?

Sorry, that's all I got. Good luck!

gianinline

I believe so, because the problems have been happening since the engine was put together using the stock obd2 ecu.
So if it happened with the obd2 ecu, and then happens also with the obd1 ecu, then.... the problem isn't the computers themselves, but something else on the sensors.. or system.

Diego Dangers.

what ECU are you using?

gianinline

Using the stock ecu, which is obd2a.
If i put the obd1 ecu with the jumper harness, the problem will still be there, only difference is that will be slower on first and second gears, will take even more gas and the rev limiter goes to 3500 instead of 3000 rpms.

gianinline

I've read the haynes manual, but it's not helping me. I couldn't understand how to actually check the crank position sensor.
I was able to stick two needles on the map sensor, and with the ignition on (engine not running), the reading was 4.9... when the book said it should be between 1.5 to 3.5, but... i don't know if that's enough for me to go ahead and replace the map sensor, 'cause after all, i don't even know if i really did the right thing when checking it or not.
I don't know if i should go ahead and put a new map sensor or not, because if it's not the problem, why waste MORE money on it.
If there's anyone that is seeing this, and you think you could help me... please help me.
Thanks in advance!

Bird333

With all the stuff you have done to your car, I can't believe you don't have a Helms. Get a Helms manual and run done the codes. It is well worth it.

gianinline

I've got a haynes manual.... but it's not helping me.
I've took the car to a good friend of mine's shop, and he has already started to run tests on the car to find out what's wrong.

Bird333

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gianinline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got a haynes manual.... but it's not helping me.
I've took the car to a good friend of mine's shop, and he has already started to run tests on the car to find out what's wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a WORLD of difference between a Haynes and a Helms manual.

JDM.Accord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bird333 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There is a WORLD of difference between a Haynes and a Helms manual. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol understatement of the year.

Gian man, I had the same problem with my H22 turbo setup. The car would randomly go into limp mode and throw mad codes. I was using Hondata, but it became such a hassle I went back to N/A OBD2.

It pretty much forced me out of the game........but good luck!!!

Brad_and_the_acc

I am not trying to Jack your thread. I do not have any suggestions about your problem either. I was browsing through EbAy and I had seen a Rear Fog. So i placed a bid and sent the seller a question about shipping price and after I sent the question I noticed message sent to Gianinline. I said I have seen that before, and sure enough. Man I want that light!!!

gianinline

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brad_and_the_acc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I was browsing through EbAy and I had seen a Rear Fog. Man I want that light!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm hope to make at least... 75... dollars... or... 70.. which is what i paid for.... please... make it happen!..lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM.Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It pretty much forced me out of the game........but good luck!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it's doing the same thing with me as well... it's very frustrating, and i guess you know how it can be.

The guy spent about 8 hours working on the car, constantly trying to find out if this or that would erase the code... but... it was always poping up on the dash.
ECU's were swaped, injectors, fuel rails, timing belt was redone, fuses checked, tests performed, compression was flawless, and the car still acts the same way.
I'm going to pick up a new engine harness and see if maybe that could be causing a problem... i hope i can blame on that... because if not... i'm pretty much stopping with this car right now, and parting it out.