guille595

99 accord 4 cylinder, 183k miles - replaced pan gasket ~ 2 weeks ago. Noticed slight leak today.

Two questions:

1. When replacing gasket (w/ thin layer of RTV sealant), I did not torque it all the way down to the 120 in-lb spec. Before I got there, the bolt was digging into the flange and visibly warping it. I am guessing that's because the pan is old. Do I need to replace the pan, torque it a bit more, or go all the way and torque it to spec?

2. I still use 5W 30 synthetic oil. Suggestions if I should go to a heavier oil to prevent leaks?

Thank you for your input.

accordturb96

well if you dont follow the torque procedure properly and the sequence you will warp sections of the pan and it will leak like hell. Do you need a chart?

holmesnmanny

Its 120 in/lb not 120 ft/lb .. it really shouldnt be that tight ... Its about 10 ft/lb

accordturb96

haha I would be impressed if he could get 120ft pds on those bolts

slowcivic2k

If the bolt is spinning on the mating surface it is because the bolt is stretched. Pull it out and compare it to another of the same length. You'll notice they are not the same.

The oil pan and transmission M6 fasteners are notorious for pulling threads from the surfaces they thread into. This is a step that is overlooked on a lot of cars and causes leaks soon after installation. Inspecting the threads can also reveal aluminum trapped in the pitches in the bolt.

You must use high torque sealant (grey) on structural parts. Using anything else will expel the gasket material and increase the chances of leaking.

holmesnmanny

You have to make sure both the block, and the pan, as well as for the gasket are completely and totally oil free or it won't seal and oil will leak past. I like to even wipe up into the block so that into the time it takes you to get the pan up and tightened no oil can slip down and cause a leak. As long as it is debris free you can tighten it down just past hand tight and not worry about it leaking.