weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

I have a '97 Accord coupe with a H22A euro R swap in it. I purchased the car from a guy who "made" the harness himself from the two harnesses (the oem accord one and the Euro R one. I got it from him and first switched the Euro R PCD OBD2B ecu to an OBD1 P72 ecu that has an H22A basemap on it. It ran at that point, but it threw some codes, all of which I have fixed, but the IACV code (code 14). Last week I got the adapter from Rosko that allows the use of a 2 wire IACV instead of the three wire one the Euro r comes with. I wired the "new" 2 wire IACV plug like I found on H-T. Now the IACV code is still on, and when I plug it in the switch clicks. Also the car barely idles and it runs horrible. The 2 wire IACV has no spot for a vacuum hose that was present on the 3 wire, so I suppose this is the culprit of my poor idle/ bad running issue. As for the IACV...I am gonna jump it right from the OBD1 to OBD2 jumper harness and see what happens. Any ideas on any where to T the vacuum in to? It is supposed to run from the back of the head to the back of the IACV, but like I said this is not possible now with the IACV I am using. If I leave the line unplugged it idles at like 200 rpms, and if I close it off...I WILL NOT RUN AT ALL. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!


Modified by weavertime1 at 7:57 AM 12/31/2007

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

Up

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

Afternoon bump..still working on it...

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE!
I tried T-ing into various vacuum lines to no avail. Then I got an idea. The Euro R throttle body had no vacuum port on it (nipple on the top). So I found an F20B throttle body I had with the vacuum port, and after installing it...the damn thing idles now, but it still jumps from 1500 to 1700. I still have the IACV code (14). I was wondering if anyone has ever jumped the IACV directly from the ecu (pin A9) and a random accessory wire? if so...did this work? Please comment if you have any ideas. Thanks!

ESP.net

I'll throw this out there...may or may not help u... we did a Euro R swap into a CB accord a month or so back... we couldn't get the thing to idle after our custom IACV plate... We used a p28 did away with the EGR, we had a vacuum leak at the flange of the Euro R I believe there was 4 tiny holes (EGR) on the flange of the manifold above each port we ended up blocking them with 3-4mm allen head studs. Solved the issue.

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

Another Update!
Today I rewired the IACV to the harness as shown on Honda-tech, and now there is no cel, and the car idles perfect. Another weird issue has developed though. The car gurgles at low rpms which is amplified by the aem cold air intake. It only gurgles if the IACV is hooked up, so does anyone have a take on that? it is quite loud. It does not seem to hurt anything at all, idle or performance wise, but it is obnoxious to say the least. Also the engine seems to have a rattle (def. not a heatshield), which really worries me, and I can't pinpoint it. It does not seem internal, like bearings or anything, and all I can think of is the fact that the previous owner installed an auto to manual timing belt tensioner kit off the older H22a. Has anyone had any experience with that sort of problem?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll throw this out there...may or may not help u... we did a Euro R swap into a CB accord a month or so back... we couldn't get the thing to idle after our custom IACV plate... We used a p28 did away with the EGR, we had a vacuum leak at the flange of the Euro R I believe there was 4 tiny holes (EGR) on the flange of the manifold above each port we ended up blocking them with 3-4mm allen head studs. Solved the issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate your help...I am still running the egr as far as I know, and like I said, the idle issue was solved today, so I think I am done with that part. Now I just gotta figure the other two things out.