pvpop54

I'm trying to fix a problem with my son's 95 Accord EX Coupe. When the temperature control **** is taken to the full heat position (clockwise) it spring returns to about the mid position. When taken to the no heat position (full counterclockwise) it stays, but it seems the heat is not turned off fully. I've already taken the heater control unit out and checked it, the switch is fine. Next I suspected the heater control valve but it too is OK. So now I suspect the main heater box (which includes the air mix etc etc) is jammed up or broken. It seems the entire dash needs to be removed to get to this. So, I am wondering:

1. Has anyone seen this problem, and what was the cause?

2. Is there any easy way to look at all this without disassembling the entire dash?

Any advice would be really appreciated.

<U></U>Follow-up: Today I pulled the glove box and found all the heater box mixing levers and cable attachment points. It actually seems there are maybe 2 problems:

1. The cable between the heater control valve and the box pivot is (was) slightly bent and may have been part of the problem. I took it out and gently straightened it. You could feel it bind slightly at a certain point and after I worked with it, there was easier movement.

2. The heater control valve is fine with one exception: The spring clamp that holds the cable sheath stationary (in the engine compartment) is partly broken and probably not long for this world. It seems the only way to replace it is to change out the heater control valve!

I adjusted the cable ever so slightly and although there still is not full range open - shut on the heater control valve, it will open full and nearly close all the way now. Earlier there was not an abundance of heat output and in the summer it always was warm a little. I think I improved the situation significantly at a total cost of $0.

Thanks for your help on this. Considering my son and his wife live in Colorado in the winter I am sure they will appreciate the additional heat output.

TT in Baltimore


Modified by pvpop54 at 1:21 PM 11/11/2005

Ross 2.0

The first thing to check is to be sure the **** isn't broken. Pull it off and check before doing anything else. 9 times out of 10 that's what it is.
If that isn't broken get you son or another assistant to watch the heater control valve to see if it moves with the ****.
Start with those things and I can help you further depending on what you find out.
Good luck.


Modified by MooGoCow3 at 2:20 AM 11/11/2005

P_Adams

You have two push/pull cables which are operated by the temp control ****. These can be described as an inner spiral wire cable 1/32" in diameter running inside a plastic outer casing. Approximately 2.5" of the inner cable is unsupported at any one time.
One starts at the heater control mechanism and travels to a lever arm and shaft assembly which operates a temp blend door in the Heater/AC case up behind the glove box. The second cable again connects to the same lever arm and continues out into the engine compartment to operate the hot water control valve.
One of these inner cable wires has bent at the unsupported portion of the cable run and is acting as a spring (which you feel as the **** kicks back)

Heater control detail (#10 is Cable 'A')
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...NTROL
Heater Case Detail (#10 is Cable "B")
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...+UNIT
Water Valve Detail (#01 is Valve)
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...VALVE

Most likely the hot Water Control Valve started binding, and one day came along where one of the cables took a bend because it bound up b4 it reached full throw, and someone forced it. Not only will the offending cable require replacement, but whatever bound it up will have to go too.

P

BLKFLSH

After buying at least two ***** I learned something. When you turn the **** to heat do it slowly. Then if you feel resistance stop turning, let it sit for a couple of seconds (it doesn't take long) then it will probably turn easily again. It worked great for me for many years. This is easier than trying to lube the cable (which may or may not work anyway). It's when you try to turn the **** fast that causes problems (the cable binds up). Hope this solves your problem.

deserthonda

most problem i have seen with those , is people turning the know too fast and binding the cables,,,,,,,,,,,,also some times it makes the heater control gear skip a tooth ot two and it goes out of sinchronization,, i cannot recall exactly but i think there might have been a bulletin ....before removing the dash which i have never seen it to be the problem yet for what u are experiencing..i would disconnect the cables and make sure the none og the doors on the heater are not binding ..if they are not there is no need to remove dash, the problem most likely lies as suggested by others on the cables and or heater control unit ,,,

pvpop54

I thought I mentioned that the **** and heater control valve were ok?...well, they are OK. What is next?

Thanks

pvpop54

P_Adams,

Thanks for the details on the problem...the drawings were very helpful. Just one additional question: How to gain access to the guts of all this. I know how to get to the control unit. Do I get to the heater box (core, evaporator, blend door and cable connections) through the glove box? Thanks a mill for your assistance.

TT

Ross 2.0

I wasn't questioning the valve itself, I was seeing if the end result of the spider web of cables and rods was actually moving the heater control valve.