Ry4nchu

Greetings, I hope all is well. I recently saved up my nickels and dimes to get a car for work. Paid 1500 for a salvage accord, auto transmission
A few small issues here and there (odometer and speedometer work 25% of the time)
The car ran great for the first few weeks, however after a few days driving about 40 miles on the freeway, I ran into an issue :

When the transmission is "hot" it will not shift out of 1/2nd gear. I can't really tell which gear this is happening in. When the car is cool or cold (early in the morning) the car shifts fine with no mechanical issues.
When the car is hot, (usually happens faster on a warmer day) this shifting issue occurs. If I get on the freeway and cruise around in 3rd or 4th gear, I have no problem until my car comes to a stop.

Transmission fluid still has somewhat of a red color, but is fairly dirty

Shutting the car off seems to fix the issue, but only for 1 or 2 stop lights.

What could this be? I have had a few mechanics look at it, one said solenoids at 300 for the repair, and the other said "resistors" which I honestly know nothing about. but I still want a few more opinions as to what this could be.
Any and all help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you and good night
Edit: no check engine or d4 lights when I jump the wires

MAD_MIKE

If the car shifts fine when cold the transmission itself is most likely fine. If a shift solenoid was bad your trans would behave differently.
From the symptoms it seems when the ECM goes into closed loop is when you have issues, that's why it takes a couple of blocks before it acts up again. It is also most likely heat/heat soak related.

A simple test of the solenoids can be done by unhooking the two grey connectors down on the leading edge of the transmission, and directly jumping them with battery power. They should make an audible click when powered on and off, if they do they are most likely fine. You can also unbolt them(10mm socket) and verify the screen filters are not becoming clogged.

Does your CEL and D4 lamps on your dash work?
When the key is initially turned to II(ON) all the warning lights will come on(including D4) and if you sit there for a few moments you will hear a 'click' and some of the warning lights will turn off.
If the lamps work, look under/behind your glovebox door, you will see two blue connectors in an orange holder. Pull down the two wire blue connector. jumper it with a wire/paperclip, and turn your ignition to II(ON) and look for codes blinking from the CEL or D4 lamps. However if the 7.5A memory fuse(located in the engine bay fuse panel) is missing or blown, no codes will be stored when the key is turned to I(OFF).
If your CEL/D4 lamps do not work you will not be able to retrieve codes.
When you do retrieve the codes, come back here and post them up for further diagnostics.

Crap shot theory, you either have a loose ground on the intake manifold(check on the backside near the brake master cylinder, there is a ground cable there)throwing all the sensors off, or your TPS is worn out which will prevent transmission upshifts. Also check the main battery ground from the battery terminal down to the transmission, if this is loose the solenoids may not function with a bad connection. And there is another ground bonding cable that attaches to the engine mount and valve cover.
Verify both battery terminals are clean and tight.
Verify battery voltage is ~12.4Volts.

If the engine is not in proper tune the transmission will shift erratically or not at all. Check your thermo sensor under the distributor. Backprobe the TPS and verify a linear voltage change when the throttle is opened.

Ry4nchu

Thanks! I'll try doing this and let you know how it goes.
Edit: d4 and check engine light do come on, and after a few seconds, they click off.
When jumping, check engine light comes on but d4 light does not come on. Check engine light is solid with no blinks

MAD_MIKE

ECU/TCU are fine.

One of the problems with the older OBDI systems is that a component has to be electrically dead(or disconnected) before it kicks a code. And sometimes a code will not store or cause the CEL/D4 to light. And if the Memory fuse is missing or blown it will never save or store a code.

Start here
VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor Troubleshoot, Repair, Replace - How To.

Then move on to
Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.

I am assuming when the shifter is placed in a given gear that gear lights up the display on the dash, correct? R lights up in Reverse, 1 lights up when all the way in First gear.

Do you have a voltmeter? This will provide you with the best means to diagnose an electrical problem.

Again, check all your battery connections, recheck your fuses, and recheck all the bonding/ground cables on the engine and transmission. Look for any corroded or damaged wires/wire loom.

Are there any modifications done to the car? Including non factory radio, etc.

Ry4nchu

Yes, they function as normal.

Do you have a voltmeter? This will provide you with the best means to diagnose an electrical problem.
I do, but would have to look up what to test

Again, check all your battery connections, recheck your fuses, and recheck all the bonding/ground cables on the engine and transmission. Look for any corroded or damaged wires/wire loom.
Fuses are good as far as i know,i will double check them again and make sure the propper fuses are in their corresponding slot

Are there any modifications done to the car? Including non factory radio, etc.[/QUOTE]
No radio at all, the car had been repainted, and one mechanic seems to think it had been stolen at one point. Wiring looks pretty normal, other than a wire wrapped around a fuse ( which i traced back to the passenger window)

Thank you! I will try the vehicle speed sensor first! i hope its a cheap fix, every tranny shop so far has told me its a mechanical issue and i need a brand new transmission (of course they would say that)

slowcivic2k

You could be experiencing a number of issues. One of the first is the small filter element in the transmission itself. Things like oil pump output are also suspect.

A lot of cold/hot problems are rooted in o ring leakage or valve body leakage. As the unit warms up, there is less viscosity which will make an internal leak more prevalent.

Start with a fluid level check and ensure it was the correct type to begin with. Most generic fluids will work in a Honda of this vintage. Continuing from above, excessive clutch wear can cause erratic shifting, and the clutch apply ports being blocked with material can also cause problems.

Given the fluid level and quality to be correct, you would need a diagnostic rebuild. If this problem has progressed over time, any other information regarding the start and previous repairs would be helpful.

brookeus

Hi there. I was reading your answer on this question and was hoping you could shed some light on a problem I’m experiencing. I just bought a 1994 Honda Accord lx automatic for my son. First of all the check engine light is on and there is a light blinking around D4. When you shift from park to D4 it is starting out in 2nd gear. I have flushed the transmission fluid twice now and nothing has changed. I’ve tried manually putting it in first but still starts in second. Do you have any advice?



QUOTE=MAD_MIKE;50300813]If the car shifts fine when cold the transmission itself is most likely fine. If a shift solenoid was bad your trans would behave differently.
From the symptoms it seems when the ECM goes into closed loop is when you have issues, that's why it takes a couple of blocks before it acts up again. It is also most likely heat/heat soak related.

A simple test of the solenoids can be done by unhooking the two grey connectors down on the leading edge of the transmission, and directly jumping them with battery power. They should make an audible click when powered on and off, if they do they are most likely fine. You can also unbolt them(10mm socket) and verify the screen filters are not becoming clogged.

Does your CEL and D4 lamps on your dash work?
When the key is initially turned to II(ON) all the warning lights will come on(including D4) and if you sit there for a few moments you will hear a 'click' and some of the warning lights will turn off.
If the lamps work, look under/behind your glovebox door, you will see two blue connectors in an orange holder. Pull down the two wire blue connector. jumper it with a wire/paperclip, and turn your ignition to II(ON) and look for codes blinking from the CEL or D4 lamps. However if the 7.5A memory fuse(located in the engine bay fuse panel) is missing or blown, no codes will be stored when the key is turned to I(OFF).
If your CEL/D4 lamps do not work you will not be able to retrieve codes.
When you do retrieve the codes, come back here and post them up for further diagnostics.

Crap shot theory, you either have a loose ground on the intake manifold(check on the backside near the brake master cylinder, there is a ground cable there)throwing all the sensors off, or your TPS is worn out which will prevent transmission upshifts. Also check the main battery ground from the battery terminal down to the transmission, if this is loose the solenoids may not function with a bad connection. And there is another ground bonding cable that attaches to the engine mount and valve cover.
Verify both battery terminals are clean and tight.
Verify battery voltage is ~12.4Volts.

If the engine is not in proper tune the transmission will shift erratically or not at all. Check your thermo sensor under the distributor. Backprobe the TPS and verify a linear voltage change when the throttle is opened.[/QUOTE]

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

You might try swapping out the TCU. You can get one cheap at the pick-and-pull yards. Worked for me.

The 94 and 95 are OBD1 which has a TCU separate from the ECU. Things that will work are TCU's from Accord 94-94, Prelude 92-95, Odyssey 95. There may be others. But they will all be 95 and earlier.

bloomin

A lot of these 94-95 OBD I cars have ECUs that fail due to dried out or leaking electrolytic capacitors that can cause all sorts of strange operating issues.

Pull out the small two pin plug that is blue colored from under the edge of the bottom of the dash beneath the glove box, it is secured to the metal support you just gently tug until it comes undone from the metal support then you use a small metal paper clip and jumper the two female contacts then turn on the car to accessories....what do you see the check engine light doing? Solid? If so you have a failed ECU due to most likely the failed electrolytic caps on the circuit board of the ECU, now if you have soldering skills you can cheaply replace those caps for a few dollars by replacing them.!

Post back with a follow up!