2001 4cyl RPMs bouncing when accelerating, EGR code
07-14-2014, 07:52 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2001 4cyl RPMs bouncing when accelerating, EGR code
TLDR:
Check engine light for egr p1491 came back after cleaning passages and seafoaming. RPMs going up and down, when under fast acceleration, also loss of acceleration until I take my foot off gas pedal.
Just got my wife a dark green 2001 Honda Accord coupe 4 cylinder to replace her accord that is the same down to the paint color, only hers is one year older, 2000.
Had to put new pads and rotors front and back. On the rear driver side, I replaced the bearing too, rotor screws refused to budge. After the 3rd broken bit, I pulled the bearing with the rotor and spent the $$ to replace the part.
On my wife's 2000 accord this is how I fixed the EGR issue, the way this guy pulled the egr valve and clean out the four holes below it:
But on the 2001 there is nothing like that plate below it. I had pulled the fuel injectors & valve cover before I realized that this was different. There was no plate to remove and no other passages to unclog, like I had done on my wife's 2000 accord.
In that same video I read this comment:
I tried looking online for a visual on how to do this and I could not find it. So when I pulled the EGR valve off, I sprayed carb cleaner in the two holes, and had a very thin pick with a hooked end to scrap out as much gunk as I could. With the hooked end I could get down the both holes about an inch. I vacuumed with each spraying and scrapping. I did likewise to the EGR valve. Cleaned the contact places and put a EGR Valve gasket too, there was none there.
I then poured 3/4th of a bottle of seafoam into the gas tank, about half a bottle into the crank case, and let the brake booster cable suck up a little more than half a bottle.
Two things I noticed when doing that... 1st, when I opened the engine filler cap, air was blowing out. On my wife's accord, and my 98 Lincoln it does not blow air out. It was hard enough to spray all the liquid I was trying to pour in.
2nd, I noticed the smoke also coming from behind the engine. I can hear an exhaust leak, so I guess its pre-cat.
After letting it sit for 40 minutes, I went to take it for a few W.O.T.s, here is where the issue started.
Getting up to about 35 mph, the RPM's bounce, and acceleration stops until I take my foot off the gas. If I step on the gas lightly, or even moderately, it does not do that. Only when flooring it. It did not do this when I first tested the car out.
Its the same as when you step on the gas while in park, and the reving limiter kicks in. But this shouldn't happen on the highway.
At idle it is below 1 rpm.
Check engine lights came back on. Its after 6 p.m. on a sunday, so I stuck a paper click into the bottom brown wire, and black wire on the back of the OBD II connector, to short it and let me pull the Blink codes.
CEL blink code
12 - EGR- Valve Insufficient Lift
ABS blink code, I believe on the 98+ the codes are different from the older codes.
12 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FR
81- central processing unti (CPU)
Im going to try using up the 1/3rd of gas left in the tank before I try replacing the actual EGR valve. Could I have not unclogged the passages under the EGR valve enough? Is the valve failing? Another issue?
Thanks for reading.
Check engine light for egr p1491 came back after cleaning passages and seafoaming. RPMs going up and down, when under fast acceleration, also loss of acceleration until I take my foot off gas pedal.
Just got my wife a dark green 2001 Honda Accord coupe 4 cylinder to replace her accord that is the same down to the paint color, only hers is one year older, 2000.
Had to put new pads and rotors front and back. On the rear driver side, I replaced the bearing too, rotor screws refused to budge. After the 3rd broken bit, I pulled the bearing with the rotor and spent the $$ to replace the part.
On my wife's 2000 accord this is how I fixed the EGR issue, the way this guy pulled the egr valve and clean out the four holes below it:
But on the 2001 there is nothing like that plate below it. I had pulled the fuel injectors & valve cover before I realized that this was different. There was no plate to remove and no other passages to unclog, like I had done on my wife's 2000 accord.
In that same video I read this comment:
"I can only answer for the 4-cylinder. There is only one passage, and it is only a few inches long. It runs from below the EGR valve, to the intake plenum that the throttle body is attached to. From memory: you need to remove EGR valve, disconnect throttle cables, disconnect coolant block behind the throttle body (careful; coolant will leak from these hoses,) remove throttle body, remove intake plenum. Then use baby bottle brushes and carb cleaner to clean out the passage from both ends. While you've got the throttle body and plenum off, you might as well clean them up, too. In fact, the port on the plenum where the EGR gasses enter the plenum is a very likely EGR clog point on this engine. Reassemble in reverse order, making certain to reconnect all hoses and electrical connections. Refill engine coolant if you lost a lot of it."
I then poured 3/4th of a bottle of seafoam into the gas tank, about half a bottle into the crank case, and let the brake booster cable suck up a little more than half a bottle.
Two things I noticed when doing that... 1st, when I opened the engine filler cap, air was blowing out. On my wife's accord, and my 98 Lincoln it does not blow air out. It was hard enough to spray all the liquid I was trying to pour in.
2nd, I noticed the smoke also coming from behind the engine. I can hear an exhaust leak, so I guess its pre-cat.
After letting it sit for 40 minutes, I went to take it for a few W.O.T.s, here is where the issue started.
Getting up to about 35 mph, the RPM's bounce, and acceleration stops until I take my foot off the gas. If I step on the gas lightly, or even moderately, it does not do that. Only when flooring it. It did not do this when I first tested the car out.
Its the same as when you step on the gas while in park, and the reving limiter kicks in. But this shouldn't happen on the highway.
At idle it is below 1 rpm.
Check engine lights came back on. Its after 6 p.m. on a sunday, so I stuck a paper click into the bottom brown wire, and black wire on the back of the OBD II connector, to short it and let me pull the Blink codes.
CEL blink code
12 - EGR- Valve Insufficient Lift
ABS blink code, I believe on the 98+ the codes are different from the older codes.
12 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FR
81- central processing unti (CPU)
Im going to try using up the 1/3rd of gas left in the tank before I try replacing the actual EGR valve. Could I have not unclogged the passages under the EGR valve enough? Is the valve failing? Another issue?
Thanks for reading.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post