Lester Lugnut

Many would know how to research and resolve this; thought I'd post my findings and trouble shooting techniques. Might help someone.

Haynes repair manual for 1998-2002 came in handy.

Again - 2000 Accord LX - 4 cyl - 2.3l

Car belongs to my step-son. Was checking his fluids and noticed overflow coolant tank empty. Let engine cool down before attempting to remove radiator cap. When I removed the cap I noticed it was broken - vacuum valve had fallen off and spring was wobbling around the cap. Looked like it might have been the original ND cap. Suspect pressure valve got plugged up.

Replaced cap with after-market part; then replaced lost coolant and bled cooling system. Head gasket appeared to have survived - at least for now.

He drove for a couple of days without issue then got stuck in a freeway jam that lasted about an hour and a half during afternoon rush hour - 100 degree outdoor temps.

Temp gauge rose and coolant in overflow tank was once again emptied out. Radiator did not loose as much coolant this time.

Underway at speed - the problem never occurred - only happened in stop-n-go. Could not simulate at home idling in driveway and that was no surprise. Car never overheated there, nor did I see the temp gauge rising after idling for nearly an hour.

It was during this evaluation that I noticed the radiator fan not working. Car has 2 fans - condensor fan - drivers side and radiator fan - closer to battery. Both fans should operate if A/C is on and functioning. They will also both come on with A/C off after sensors detect hot enough conditions.

Followed the diagnostics provided in Haynes manual.

Tested radiator fan - the one closest to the battery using a jumper wire technique.

Cut 2 lengths of wire about the same gauge as the wire I saw on the radiator fan connector. Peeled the rubber insulation back on all ends of both wires about 2 inches. Folded bare wire over a couple of times on each end so as to make the wire fatter in order to insert the ends of the two jumper wires into the radiator fan connector which I had since disconnected. Obviously this connector is wired to the radiator fan.

Once I was sure the wires were making proper contact in the radiator fan connector. I laid one of the wires on the other end on the batteries positive terminal; then the other on the negative terminal. The fan DID NOT SPIN - indicating a faulty fan, I doubled checked my approach by testing the functioning condensor fan. It spun using the 2 wire jumper test - proving my method was working.

No after-market replacement fan motors had a connector that matched mine. The genuine Honda radiator fan motor would need to be ordered and cost about $225.00 + tax.

For $159.00 I got a new radiator fan assembly from an after-market provided. The connector plug was identical to the one in the car.

Installed this assembly and while I was at it - replaced 10 yr. old upper/lower hoses and the thermostat.

So far - so good.