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1999 Honda Accord v6 auto Please Help

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Old 01-17-2016, 10:42 PM
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Default 1999 Honda Accord v6 auto Please Help

PLEASE HELP THANK YOU
It's going to be kind of long so bare with me please ...
Let me start with the history of the car, I got the car I'm March of 2015 with 172,000 miles on it. When I bought it only had an EGR code , but I didn't really experience any EGR problems alot , maybe once every 100 times. After 4 months of driving the car I started experiencing Transmission problems, since its my first car I didn't really know much about cars, so I just listened to what the mechanic told me. The transmission got to point where it would only drive in second gear. So the mechanic told me that I need either a rebuild or a new transmission. I didn't know better so I got a new used transmission with 120,000 miles on it and put new spark blugs on it. The transmission worked fine after that. But right after that happened I started experiencing vtech solenoid problems. The mechanic told me to wait and see if he can find me a used one so I waited. A month passed and in that time I replaced the radiator. After a Month of vtech issues I started having power issue, and I'm still having them till now. It started out as small thing. When I'm driving and stepping on the gas pedal, the car would just stop giving power and the rpm would go down, its as if I took my foot off the gas when I didn't, and if I leave my foot on the gas after a while it would revving, the rpm would keep going up and down. When that started to happen I decided it's time to fix my vtech problem and just get a new solenoid. It turned to be just a broken oil pressure sensor or something for the vtech solenoid, changed that and car started hitting vtech again. But the cutting power problem remained but it just started getting more severe, not only would cut power but sometimes if you keep your foot on the gas it would cut power and idle very low as if its going to switch off and then it would jump forward and then cut again as if it ran out of gas. I took to 3 different mechanics and each one of them said something different, one said fuel pump ( which I ended up changing btw) and the second said map sensor and fuel regulator and the third said map sensor. I had these check engine codes: 1) P0101 Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor Range/Performance Problem 2) P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage 3) P0171 Fuel System Too Lean 4) P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Insufficient Flow 5) p0170 fuel trim bank one. I waited on it as I had finals at that time and because I really didn't know what exactly was wrong with it. I finished my finals and decided to fix the cutting power problem. I found a good mechanic but he was kind of far like 35 miles away and on my way to him after almost 15 mins of driving the car started doing transmission issues, it would just shift late and downn shift really really hard and just going on neutral on its own sometimes. Alll that on my way to fix the cutting power problem. I got to the mechanic and he scanned for the codes it had transmission codes and EGR code (which I never fixed, and it always had) and sometimes about gas too lean of something. He told me that fixing the power problem might,might fix the transmission and said that most likely no. This was back in November of 2015 and January 2016 and I'm still driving it. Anyway drove back that day and said that I don't want to pay another penny on the car if its the transmission again. I started noticing that it would drive great (transmission wise) the first 15 mins and after that it would go crazy, that how I drove it till now. But it kept getting worst. So I wanted to try to fix it myself. I tried to take the shift solenoid out and clean it but the battery tray ( that obove the solenoid) is stuck so I never got to take it out and clean the filter. After that I cleaned the map sensor and throttle body (without taking it out) and nothing happened. So I started test driving it with some sensor disconnected. Map and EGR disconnected didn't do anything but driving it with the TPS disconnected was much better, it Stopped cutting power at all and stopped slipping gears, just started shifting late, like instead of shifting at 2.5 rpm it would shift at 3.5 but I found out that the computer would force shift it after a certain rpm. so i thought that changing the Tps would fix and might even fix the transmission. (oh and note that at this point i don't drive anywhere far last far drive was to the far mechanic) So i changed the tps, got one from oreilly for 40 dollars. i change and clean the throttle body (butterfly) one more time but do it really good this time (without taking the throttle body out) i put everything back together and drive the car. the car drove Perfect like really perfect,didnt even feel it change from P to D, for 10 minutes then the check engine light came back on and started cutting power again. i went to pep boys really quick and got the codes, there was 3. p0122, p0740 and p0401. this was exactly after i installed the new tps and resit the computer. (changed the tps on jan 13th). Now i'm frustrated I dont know exactly whats wrong with the car and if i can to a mechanic they would either tell me the transmission is bad or that they have to fix the engine problem first to make sure that the transmission is bad. and honestly i dont want to pay more on the car if i cant sell it for a decent price. so please help me, im open to suggestions. i live in orlando florida if that makes a difference. PLEASE HELP THANK YOU
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