FRANKENSTIEN813

Hey guys,

I have gotten another CG3, this one i decided to keep the stock granny f23a w/auto, the car has 225k on the chassis and Engine a New Trans only 10K miles, I Have redone almost everything that could be done Except for a LongBlock swap,

here's what ive done that's New:

Transmission,Radiator,A/C Fan,Timing belt,camshaft seal,VTEC seal,Distributor,130volt Alternator,PCV,Spark Plugs,Plug Wires Front 02 sensor,(*Honda Recall*Ignition switch fixed from stealership) a Yellowtop Optima, Brake Rotors and Pads,Rear Drums and Shoes,Intake,Headers Full Exhaust,New Rear O2 sensor,Fuel Filter,

BUT THE CAR HAS BEEN DOING THIS EVEN BEFORE THE WORK =/ (i figured this would fix it)

Here's What i Haven't Done: Main Relay,Fuel Injectors,Fuel Pump, EGR Valve, Camshaft sensors,oil Pump(yet) but am gonna a.s.a LongBlock's available*.+ BisiMoto cam Not much you can do but its gonna be a DD for a Girl + its heavy

HERE'S WHAT HAPPENS:
Car will start and run perfect for a while,(Sometimes it Misfires right away but not backfiring EVER)Then it feels like LOSS of Power,THEN IT STOPS and Runs Fine the Voltmeter Surges From 12.9v to 10.9 back up to 11.5, then plains out to 12.0-12.5, feels like its gonna stall when the A/C compressor kicks on, Sometimes it will, the electric load feels like it will choke the car out i was driving last night and i didnt touch the A/C it stayed @ 12.5 volts but soon as i made a Decently hard brake it started With the VoltMeter again 10.9v a/c compressor kicks on throws 12.9v =/ WEIRD

STALLING WHILE DRIVING:
Going 75mph and Loosing all power in a Auto Accord isnt fun so i just Put in N Rolling and @ a 50mph roll im Cranking, she usually starts up, 1-3 tries

Seems Like The Electrical System is Grounding out Somewhere BUT I CHECKED? I can be @ 10.9v Hit The power window and it will Bring up the VoltMeter to 12.9v? same for A/c sometimes it Drains it Sometimes It Charges it, BUT IT DID THIS BEFORE i touched anything so i know its not what ive done, i know Honda Has a Fail on the wiring harness of the ignition but they said my year wasnt that it was the actual key falling out :/

Checked: Grounds(Good) Timing(Good) Battery(Good) alt(Good) Distributor (Good) No Vacc Leaks , I dunno What The hell? haha

gonna go to AutoZone and see what Codes it Throws up

any help would be GREATLY appreciated lol Thanks Everyone

FRANKENSTIEN813

Ok So,

Threw Codes:

P0401 = EGR Valve

P1382 = cylinder Position sensor

After $395 USD i Got the Parts, i'll Post The Outcome asap

FRANKENSTIEN813

Did The EGR Valve and Sensor Today, Cleared The Codes Car runs like a Champ
No Misfire, No Volt issue anymore
You can Clean Your EGR Valve but in My Case it was shot 225K miles later i prefer new anyway, so will the next owner

Also a Tip taking off the EGR use a 12mm wrench on the bolt closest to the throttle body(Take you air intake off for room)

and a 12mm Short w/Extension on the Valve side, i used PB catalyst x3 let it sit
Tapped it, after a Min it came off...

The Crank Sensor.. lol, well if you havent replaced your Timing belt you may as well get one because you have to remove the harmonic balancer to access the sensor..

dont worry its easy , just keep everything TDC and your all Good.. then re assemble

*While your @ it a New Headgasket wouldn't be a Bad idea jus sayin*

Take care everyone! hmu if you have any questions on these year accords i have plenty of F'd up stuff happen i have fixed and may have a Answer!

jdmcertified909

the only sensor thats needed to be replaced by removing the harmonic balance is the crank sensor. so i dont know where you got your info from. why change the headgasket? is the old one leaking? how do you know the new headgasket wont spring a leak? becuz its new? if its not broken dont fix it. new parts do fail. the cam sensor is in the dizzy

FRANKENSTIEN813

It Said Cylinder Position sensor on The OBD, I know where the Cam Sensor, Idle sensor, lol But the sensor i was referring to was behind the harmonic balancer, wich is the crank TDC sensor, My Bad