ShadowWorkssimc

Hi, my Accord is acting up after 94K of perfect motoring.

The idle is hunting and sitting at 1200rpm, after warming up the engine cuts out for a few minutes, it has no power when its starts up again, a new problem is the rpm gauge jumps wildly all over the place, I can't drive half a mile before its cuts out now.

I have replaced all the coolant sensors,, idle and fast idle control valves, ignition coil, ignition leads, ignition amplifier, replaced all the spark plugs and check for vacuum leaks, none have been found.

Could it be the crank sensor? my car is OBD1 only, can that pull a code for the crank sensor?

is the crank sensor in the distributor or behind the crank pulley?

Could it be the throttle position sensor? I'm really stuck on this problem guys.

garagejunkie

Not quite sure about this one, but since you already replaced all those sensors you might as well replace the TPS. Also try and adjust the idle? Maybe one of your relays is acting up.

P_Adams

European Domestic Market Accord? (you DID say it was a 1997 version, RIGHT?)
Even with it being OBD1 you should still be able to pull a code.
When was the last time the O2 sensor was changed out? It could be effecting closed loop operation.
I may take some well placed explatives, but you should be able to query the computer (ECM),

P

ShadowWorkssimc

I found one problem, my intake manifold gasket had blown a gap out some how creating a massive vacuum leak, I used that instant gasket from a tube, the idle has settled down but the jumping rpm needle and stalling are just as frequent.

I replaced the TPS today and still no joy, so I replaced the whole distributor from a used car known to be in running order, I never even opened the distributor to clean the contacts, it seemed stable in my drive after I set the idle screw, but then in my infinite stupidity I decide to put in the new ignition coil and amplifier, the engine wouldn't idle or catch!, I quickly removed them and put the old parts back in which made it start and idle but the jumping needle has returned!

Would a bad Oxygen sensor make the Rpm needle jump?, is it possible that the engine timing has slipped? can the timing be altered by turning the distributor after loosening the three main bolts? are there timing marks on the flywheel that I can use? someone mentioned a relay may be to blame?

Can you tell this is kicking my bottom sideways.

phootbag

So, the needle jumps but the actual RPM's aren't? Is that correct? If my memory serves me I believe the Tachometer signal is sent from the Ignition Control Module ( igniter ) inside the distributor. A problem could be there, though I have never experienced it. The other likely possibility is a problem inside the Tachometer Guage assembly. With a graphing meter you can observe the tach signal coming from the igniter. A good way to rule that out.

ShadowWorkssimc

Yes, I suspected the igniter so I purchased a new one from Ebay.

"Motaquip Ignition Module"

Part Number VIM158

After installing this igniter the RPM needle began to really fluctuate wildly and stalled the engine even faster.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I made the assumption that its the same part but I'm not so sure now.



Would a faulty tachometer make the engine stall? I may just try and get a spare binnacle just to see what happens as I'm out of fresh ideas, I adjusted the timing on the distributor which was ok.

phootbag

Do you have a graphing multimeter? With that you can check the signal from the ECM for ignition control. You can check the signal coming from the igniter to the ECM for Tach control. Which, if you had a faulty igniter could explain the stalling along with the tach issue. This is speculation, the way to know is to test.

ShadowWorkssimc

I don't have a muiltimeter with a tacho metering ability, my multimeter is an ancient Gunson's testune multimeter which is the size of a Bible, Old Testament.

Could I just tap into the connector wires coming out of the distributor which feed the ignition coil, I can test the RPM function, this way but its not going to tell me if its the igniter, coil, tacho gauge or ECU to blame really.