SystemKhaos

Hey guys, in the middle of doing a top half engine rebuild. I cant seem to find the torque specs and/or sequence for the nuts/bolts that join the intake manifold to the head. Can anybody find this information please? With some sources? I don't want to sound like I don't trust anybody here but I don't want to have to go back in once I've gotten everything torqued down. Your help is greatly appreciated.

GhostAccord

90-93 Intake manifold studs are inserted into the cylinder head, bottomed out hand tight. Then the 8 x 1.25mm nuts are tq'd to 22 N•m (16 lb-ft) The tightening sequence on the intake @ 16lb-ft isn't critical. My personal preference is to go from the inside out starting with the top, at such a low tq there is no need to do it in steps. The shop manual doesn't even show a tightening sequence on these or the exhaust manifold nuts.


This is how I tighten them.
7 - 1 - 3 - 5
8 - 4 - 2 - 6

and I'll be honest I never put a tq wrench on them. The old German tq spec of goodentight works for me.

What proof would you like me to post for my source? I use the Honda issued shop manual for all my specs. It's found in section 5 on pg 47 (5-47) of the 90-93 CB Accord shop manual.

SystemKhaos

goodentight LOL. xD You are my #1 source on this forum, Ill take your word anyday. Thanks man. Owe you big time. Oh and I have one other question. Is there TDC markings on the balance shaft pulley? Cause I took the belt off before checking its position and I'm not sure if I done goofed or what. If you can hit me up ASAP that would be awesome. I'll be back in to check for a reply once i get the intake manifold and head torqued back down.

GhostAccord

• The front gear has a timing mark on the gear and on the oil pump housing.

• The rear shaft has an access hole that a screw driver/dowel is inserted into to keep the shaft from rotating. It will only go in one way. You will have to stick a screwdriver/dowel in the access hole and rotate the balance shaft until the dowel slides in. Once it's locked in place and will not rotate, you know it is in the correct orientation for timing.

On the F22B1/2 blocks there is also a mark on the rear gear and oil pump housing to line them up. It's been a while since I worked on an F22A1-6, so I think you need to use the dowel pin. As far as the CB manual indicates.


• The balance belt pulley on the crank has an up arrow for TDC.

Most times pictures are better than words,

SystemKhaos

You are genius man, this is why I love you and will take your word at a moments notice. I didn't even know about the access hole for the balancer pulley. This is my first time doing work this extensive on a vehicle, I didn't have the money to have it done myself so I was forced to dive in head first and do this bit my bit. I got the manifold back onto the head, next ill be tightening down the head to specs which I already got, I believe from you in a different post lol. Once I get the manifold and block connected to the head the right way, I'll be putting back the thermostat and all the stuff on the left side of the engine since I wont need to fool around with that anymore afterwards. Just so I know and I saw a few things in the picture that made me think of this, but does every pulley in the system have a TDC or "correct orientation" to be put into before I start the vehicle back up?

GhostAccord

Well not sure if I completely understand your question.

After you have installed the timing belt and balance shaft belt using Honda's alignment marks. The pulleys can then be rotated to any orientation to start the engine. They do not have to all be at TDC in order to start it for the first time. The ECU in conjunction with the TDC, CKP and CYP sensors will be able to start the engine at any orientation as long as the belts were initially installed using the appropriate TDC/timing marks.

SystemKhaos

Thats what I mean, are there any other pulleys or anything of the sort that needs to be TDC when I put the belt on, I got the crank shaft TDC, the camshaft TDC, the balancer pulley TDC as well as the oil pump pulley aligned with the arrow. Is there anything else that needs to be in a certain orientation before i start up the vehicle?

GhostAccord

Just the timing belt and balancer belt pulleys/gears.

Camshaft
Crankshaft
And the two balance shafts.

SystemKhaos

Also I believe this is the correct torque spec and sequence for the F22A1 Motor? Also wanting to know, that #9 bolt, its final torque is only 78 lb-ft?

SystemKhaos

Perfect just what I needed to know. One last question and I should be set to go for a while lol. Its about the torque specs and sequence in my previous post.

GhostAccord

All 10 of tbose head bolts have a final tq of 78 lb-ft.

SystemKhaos

lol jesus im such a moron, i was looking at it wrong, ill stfu now xD

holmesnmanny

Tighten them in the three stages it calls for so it doesn't warp.

SystemKhaos

I made sure to do that and in the appropriate order :D I love you guys, the only issue im having now is i got both serp belts, one is smaller than the other obviously but which one connects to what? does the smaller one connect to smaller crankshaft pulley, on the very outside to the power steering pump? Or do I have that backwards? I got the diagram in my face but I'm just not sure which size belt goes to which pulley system, I need this car put back together before 6am tomorrow morning so a hasty reply would be more than appreciated! Thanks guys, love ya.

GhostAccord

If you are looking at the crank pulley. The larger diameter inside pulley is for the wider A/C + Alternator belt and the smaller diameter outside pulley is for the narrower Power Steering belt.

holmesnmanny

The power steering belt normally has one less rib than the alternator belt.

SystemKhaos

Ok gents, one last question and ill have the car put together and ready to roll!!!!

Whats the torque specs for my exhaust manifold as well as the sequence please? :D

holmesnmanny

4th gen Accord torque specifications [Archive] - HondaFactor.com V3

SystemKhaos

thank you, I cant get a torque wrench on the tension bolts for the 2 serp belts, is there a specific kind of noise im looking for when I flick the belt? a low thum, a medium twang or a high pitched twing? I cant tell if i got the belts on too tight or not and im not trying to ruin the belts.

SystemKhaos

Ok I went to go fire it up and its acting as if its having a hard time trying to turn over, i disconnected the battery before i started anything, do you think that could be the issue? Or is it possible I over tightened the 2 serp belts and its too tight to crank over?

SystemKhaos

Also its 8:40 here, and I need to have this car running before 6am, any help would be awesome!

SystemKhaos

Update : I just had to jump the car, the battery is going bad im guessing from me having to crank on it so much in the past. Anyways I got it fired up, sounds very nice, very stable, I hear a small whine/click coming from my power steering pump, I accidently let most of the fluid drain out, so would that clicking/whining noise come from low power steering fluid? Also the car smokes a tad, I figured it would be from the oil i got on the headers, but at the same time the car itself started to run really warm. I didnt let it get too high but I'm gonna check the fluid levels as well as top them off if they need it and do a cold pressure test again to make sure nothing is escaping the system. Any advice from here would be great! :D

Update #2 : I found out what the "ticking" noise was, I had forgotten to tighten down the small bolt to hold the tensioner in place, so the belt was smacking all around inside the timing belt cover, the cover broke, the belt is a tad chewed up, so this thursday im gonna go back in and replace the timing belt and the covers, as well as replace the battery cause its bad. But all in all, the car fires up and sings like a bird, I cant believe I was able to do everything right for the most part! It feels so great to do a DIY project with no personal experience but being backed up by others who have the time under their belts, THANKS GUYS, I COULDNT HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU!

SystemKhaos

OK so I went back out to the car just to check it and the radiator seemed about empty as far as what you can see with the eye, so I'm thinking perhaps the piston jacket wasn't full up on coolant until I started the car up, so I topped it off again, however the exhaust is quite loud so I wont attempt to crank it up for about another 3 hours. I hope all goes well!