Stagerguy

I've gone through the FAQ, but just have a couple of quick questions.
Here's what's happened so far, I attempted to replace the rotors on my 1997 Honda Accord Ex-R. Needless to say, not a convenient set up. After much frustration I decided that the rotor over hub conversion was the solution, not easy to source the parts, apparently Acura 2.3CL's are a rarity. I did manage to find a well maintained donour at a wrecker. The kid that removed them had no idea what I was looking for and ended up giving me everything from the wishbone out. My questions:
1. Could I just bolt that wishbone straight onto my Accord (very wishful thinking)
2. I crossed checked the bearing between the Acura and my Accord and it was the same part number, according to autopartswarehouse, do I need to press the Acura bearing out and replace it with an Accord one. I did a search and near as I can tell, the Acura bearing should be fine, though the FAQ states otherwise. (go easy on me MuffinMan)

MAD_MIKE

I am fairly sure it is the same part.
While you are in there, you may as well replace the bearing for trouble free operation. Unless you want to tear your front suspension back apart in less than 10K miles when you realize that old wheel bearing is failing.

Preventative maintenance and all that.

Stagerguy

Thanks Michael, your undoubtedly right about the bearing, I saw the Acura they came off of, looks like they were sitting for awhile, unknown mileage.
Happy 4th!

Phil

tim73

Its a little aggrivating removing the bearing from the hub. I just did this a few days ago, on my CL, as the bearing was bad. But the hub has to be pressed from the bearing, and most times the inner race will stay on the hub. Youll need a bearing splitter to get that rascal off(and in my case a torch)

Stagerguy

Thanks Tim, I can hardly wait, these hub/ bearings have been exposed to the elements for an unknown time and look very rusty, albeit surface rust. Luckily I have access to a shop where I take my Land Cruiser for service and I'm sure they'll do me the favour of R&R the bearing.

holmesnmanny

tasauto.com has a rotor over hub kit. Just take the knuckle off and take that and the kit down to a machine shop and have them press out the old hub bearing and new ones in. Cost you like 20 bucks.

tim73

The two hardest parts, are getting the stupid axle nut off(If you dont have a 3/4 impact). And seperating the hub from the bearing. You can pop the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle, after you unbolt it, with just a large socket and a small sledge. But you NEED a press and a bearing splitter to seperate the two. Plus I never found any parts store that sells them as a unit, only the wheel bearing, not the hub.

Stagerguy

I managed to get the axle nut off with a 2' breaker bar and a long bar wedged between the lug nut bolts and the ground. Off course, I had to put it back on once I realized that I was going to completely destroy the bearing trying to separate the hub from the knuckle. It was at that time I realized that this is/ was a silly set up and chose to do a ROH. Also nice having all the parts on hand and still being able to drive the car, bearings have been ordered (Timkens @ RockAuto for $33.00/ea). Same bearings locally were $65.00ea, luckily I live 15 minutes from the border. I also picked up a couple of axle nuts, mine looked like they had been re-used a few times, not much shoulder left to stake. If I had to do it over again I'd just buy the tasauto assembly, I will have spent the same amount of money and have used hubs. tasauto has the hub and bearing assembly for $329, I would guess that is for a pair?? maybe? If not, then the way I'm proceeding is a little less expensive, I got the entire knuckle assembly, including rotors and calipers for $100.00ea. Of course, I won't use the rotors, I may rebuild the calipers (if there's a kit available) for a future brake job.

holmesnmanny

Yes, it's for the complete set of front.

tim73

One last warning, and it bit me, is to watch the threads on the wheel studs. When youre beating and pounding and pressing on the hub/bearing, they can get a little boogered. Plus, you wont really know it until you go to put the wheel back on.

curvenut

Could someone explain to me what is the Rotor over the hub conversion ?
the advantages of that, the reasons to do a conversion ?


Thanks

MAD_MIKE

On the 90-97 Accords the hub is over the rotor, the rotor is not readily accessible for service.
Advantage:This conversion makes it so that the front hub/bearing assembly does not have to be removed during service.
Reason: Faster, easier servicing of the front rotors.

DIY - Rotor Over Hub Conversion - NOW COMPLETE - 56K take a snooze Read up on that thread.