Evil DOHC

Whats everybody pushing with their egt's on drag 3 equipped integras? Are there any tricks to getting your EGT's lower? (cam timing, ignition timing, or colder plugs).
Thanks for any input.
EVIL

Evil DOHC

28 people looked and none answered, I guess people don't know what their EGT's are.......
EVIL

sgT

usually to make the temp go down you just add more fuel.
Most people use an EGT primarily as another rich/lean meter
as its a decent indicator. lean = hot, rich = cold

Evil DOHC

Thanks SGT for that answer. I appreciate it, I knew it wasn't the timing or the plugs. Need fuel, need fule now...lol
Thanks again
EVIL

redline

What are your EGTs for a start, and see if there is a problem! second if you do a search this has been gone over quit a bit lately and if you have another question ask away.

k

Evil DOHC

Between 10-12 on the highway cruising at 80 mph. I think thats a little hot, but a nice fuel pump and some more boost should solve that problem. LOL
EVIL

sgT

pump and more boost? nonono

you need a pump and larger injectors/fuel pressure regulator(unless you
are running an FMU)

Evil DOHC

More BOOST LOL, I was kidding SGT.
Yeah we got an FMU and a B&M so far. We need the pump to compliment the drag 3 setup. The LS is runnin 4-5 pounds right now with no pump. But the pump should be here soon.
EVIL
PS. Hey SGT are you coming to e-town this sat or sunday to compete in the all motor class?

sgT

nah, i doubt it.
besides, the nhra class setup doesnt look nice for a"regular(read street)"car like mine.

dustin

Evil:

I doubt fuel issues are causing high cruising EGTs. There is almost zero chance that you are running lean at partial throttle. EGT is used as a means of determining rich/leanness under full boost.

Are you talking Fahrenheit or Celsius ? 1000-1200 deg Fahrenheight is about 550-650 deg Celsius. That is about the temperature you should be at for freeway cruising @ 75-80mph.

If you are referring to 1200 celsius degrees, the only thing I can think of would be seriously retarded ignition timing... but the car would barely be running at that point. You would have to be firing ATDC for those temps.

I think everything is just fine. Under full boost, you do not want your EGTs any higher than about 1550 F or about 850C.... or you will start melting important things like valves.

Also, DO NOT boost the car without the fuel pump. Even at 4-5 psi you can crack a ring land quite easily.

HTH.

Dustin

quikrpm'z

whats a ringland?

dustin

The little metal pieces on the piston that hold the rings in place.

Dustin

quikrpm'z

is that piston on your car now?

dustin

No it's still in my bedroom. It will be in my car someday.

5gen-hybrid

damn that top ring land is pretty thick

dustin

To survive detonation

Evil DOHC

Dustin: Thank you for your comments, they are greatly appreciated.

SGT: I hear what you are saying, I give you mad credit for driving your car there, racing it, wining, and going back home. I would still go though, because the money is good even for 1-3 place.

EVIL

Mr Integra

lol...

dustin

Would you use nothing then? Unless one can afford an in-car lambda meter, options are quite limited. And when EGTs get high, it is easy to let off the throttle and analyze what is wrong.

Dustin

tegtyper

I would think that an EGT and a coventional A/F guage driven by the o2 sensor would have similar response times. Sure, you have to heat up the T/C but there is an incredible velocity of exhaust gas, which should accomplish this quite quickly. How fast does the EGT move when you go WOT? This should give you some sort of feel for how fast your response time is.

Both the EGT and the A/F (can) give you similar information, but are relative to different variables. I would think the EGT would give you more absolute information as to running into an dangerous condition. The engine will only handle so much temperature (which exhaust gas is a good indication of), and if it goes above said temperature, you need to shut down things regardless of cause. The A/F the other hand is just calculating relative A/F ratios based on the measured differential oxygen content of ambient air and combustion gases.

I should, I guess preface the above that my perspective comes from an instrumentation/ industrial perspective. I work with industrial boilers and burner management systems. Typically, an o2 sensor on the stack (exhaust) will be used to tune the A/F. Fancy ones can control fuel valves and air dampers. Stack temperatures are used soley for ESD (Emergency Shut Down)

Now, the obejectives are a little different than the car application, where we want to pull as much power without blowing up. Basically, in a boiler you want to run as lean as you can to save fuel costs. Improving efficiencies by as little as 1-2% a million BTU furnace can save over $100,000 a year in fuel costs.

However, if you run too lean, the flame becomes unstabe (can blow itself out) and when this happens, gas keeps filling into the vessel creating a very explosive condition.

Sorry for screaming off on a tanget here... just procastinating writing a letter to a cutomer explaining why his furnace blew up. Maybe I'll just send him the link to this post...

Evil DOHC

YES DUSTIN you are correct. We measured the timing last night. IT WAS SET AT 10 degrees. I have no idea why, but we set it at 14 degress wich is two degrees retarded from stock (16). The car pulls much harder and the egt's are between 1000 - 1200 cruising on the highway. Even when at WOT the egt's don't go past 1200 or so. The car is an animal and the fuel pump will be here any day so the boost is going up.
EVIL
Thanks for everybodies help especially dustin and sgt.