Nick Azzarto

Hey guys as of now I am running Ls(ebay kits plus some name brand parts) turbo stock motor, stock trans, stock CLUTCH->( I know bad idea) , car was dyno'd and tuned and made 237whp and 220tq of 12psi. Im thrilled and happy but I have been doing a little scheming and was thinking of LSV. My plan is to go GSR head and a GE conversion kit. At this time I also plan on doing the clutch because its hanging on for dear life and maybe a GSR tranny.

Any feedback with experience of doing and LS/vtec conversion would be wonderful, tips, helping hands, ideas or recommendations would help!

**Also Im wonder if theirs a DIY on here/online?? If so link it!!! **

Please and thank you!

speedjunkie_g35

Yes there is. No spoon feeding, just search!!

slowcivic2k

I would stay non-vtec for the sake of tunability and the chance for disaster going into vtec. Get a valvetrain and cam suitable for your car, and stick with it. LS head is not the best in terms of performance, but I would much rather tune an LS head than a VTEC one.

Get rid of the ebay turbo before the oil seal fails and ruins your motor.

Schister66

Follow this link: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

FYI, you can find links like this (and tons more) in the FAQ at the top of the Integra Forum

**Moved to Forced Induction**

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

What's going to happen when you go into vtec? Lulz

Op if you need any help pm me I just finished doing exactly what you want to do.

Very straight forward. If you're comfortable tapping the head then there's nothing to worry about.

slowcivic2k

Obviously you've never had to tune the transition from non-vtec to vtec before, lulz

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

And it seems you're the last one that is afraid to do so as opposed to understanding how its done yourself, considering the fact that its been done before... for about 15-20 or so years. .. Or MIVEC or VVTi, or similar Automotive engineering phenomena

I'm not trying to pick a fight here.. Just saying your reasoning is... well, a little neanderthal in its conception .

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Anna Kendrick omnomnom

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

and here's how I've always tuned a vtec motor

disable vtec
fully tune the low cam fuel/ignition to redline
do a pull to record low cam power/torque

enable vtec
set vtec engagement stupid low, like 2000-2500rpm
fully tune high fuel/ignition to redline
do a pull to record high cam power/torque

then overlay both graphs and see where power crosses over, set VTEC point there, do another pull and compare to the high cam only dyno, if it's a bit lower than try lower vtec engagement up to 500rpm and try again

super simple, nowhere as hard as you're making it out to be

slowcivic2k

Sounds like a lot of steps to me, and a lot of dyno time at that. I can prefer non-VTEC if I want. The only advantage VTEC gives you is slightly improved torque/driveability before VTEC. Use a non-VTEC camshaft with the same profile as the VTEC lobe and the engine will develop the same maximum torque. The difference in torque will be in the lower RPM range.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Over here I'm thinking a vtec head flows gobs more cfm than a ls head, I'm such a dummy.

Brb taking off my gsr head and slapping on a ls head.

LTCxD2B

the head alone will be an improvement vtec used or not....u just gotta figure out how your gonna run all the oil lines lol

i used a sandwich for turbo and oil sensor adapter for the head

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I used the b&r kit. Nice kit only problem is the dummys didn't ship the 1/8 npt plug for the head

kyden

wow. you are literally like the worst tuner ever.